Source for AT Transmission 04 coupe
#16
If I were you I would get a second opinion (non-dealer) before investing in a used tranny. The are a number of sensors involved in gear changes that are outside the transmission. The fact that you can't start the car in park and have to start in neutral to me is an indication that the car doesn't know the position of the shift lever. Have you tried putting it in manumatic and shifting it manually. Dealers are notorious for just throwing new parts on rather than spending time diagnosing problems. More $$$ less time.
#17
In my experience, very few shops know how to properly rebuild a transmission. I've noticed that many "rebuilt" transmissions tend to last about 1/3 the lifespan as the original.
Only rebuild I trust is the one coming from the factory. Unless you are willing to drop $$ on a big name builder or happen to know first hand of a very good shop (few and far between)
I would suggest you find an unmolested lower mileage trans from a reputable salvage dealer and have that installed along with a complete flush of the transmission lines / cooler to remove any debris.
Only rebuild I trust is the one coming from the factory. Unless you are willing to drop $$ on a big name builder or happen to know first hand of a very good shop (few and far between)
I would suggest you find an unmolested lower mileage trans from a reputable salvage dealer and have that installed along with a complete flush of the transmission lines / cooler to remove any debris.
#18
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iTrader: (10)
now has 180K miles and the trans works like new. If you have some cheap POS trans shop with dead beat mechanics put your AT togeather it won't last. It's all about quality parts and know how, along with having service done....they'll last!
Gary
#21
If you do get a used tranny...as someone mentioned above the lines to the cooler need to be flushed and if it's not a remanufacture a complete flush and refill with genuine Nissan Fluid. Expensive but well worth it to insure the trans will last and you won't experience shifting problems. You may also want to make sure that the trans comes with the valve body. If your trans is trashed your valve body is probably also trashed.
#23
I'm going to talk to some transmission shops tomorrow morning.
The way I see it, If they can rebuild it for half the price as the dealership is quoting for a refurb (which is the ballpark I've been getting verbally on the phone), If it lasts only a year or two, it's still worth it. I could rebuild it again, and still be ahead of the dealerships price!
Either way, I'm going to wait until I get a formal quote from another shop before I make a decision.
Transmissions just seem so much more shady than all other repairs I've done on the car. Nobody seems to give a straight answer as to what will fix the problem, or even tell you exactly what's wrong with it for some reason.
The way I see it, If they can rebuild it for half the price as the dealership is quoting for a refurb (which is the ballpark I've been getting verbally on the phone), If it lasts only a year or two, it's still worth it. I could rebuild it again, and still be ahead of the dealerships price!
Either way, I'm going to wait until I get a formal quote from another shop before I make a decision.
Transmissions just seem so much more shady than all other repairs I've done on the car. Nobody seems to give a straight answer as to what will fix the problem, or even tell you exactly what's wrong with it for some reason.
#25
#27
Finally, last friday, the car wouldn't start. I suspected battery, plugged in my multimeter and saw 12.10v (Battery is relatively new, under 1 year)...
Then I put the parking brake on, put the tranny in neutral and the car started right away. I put it in drive pulled up the street, then noticed it wouldn't switch out of first... I put it in manual mode, and it would switch numbers on the gauge console, but wouldn't actually switch gears.
Then the "AT Check", "Check Engine Soon", "VDC OFF" and "SLIP" light all came on solid.
So after a few blocks, it started switching gears again. I parked it, and re-started the engine and the only light that was on was the "AT Check". That's when I took it to the dealership since the AT Check light was coming on sporadically all week.
They did their diagnosis, and said there were 3 major error codes coming up and that I needed a new transmission.
I also asked if that was the cause of the increased fuel economy and they said it was because the car was revving to high under normal conditions. (this I didn't notice) and the car was shifting smoothly.
One thing I did notice was that the VDC wasn't working properly. Even though it would say "SLIP" on the dash, it wouldn't cut power to the rear wheels. This light comes on a lot in Canada with the amount of snow and ice we get.
He then said that I needed a new tranny.
That's the story in a nutshell...
I did mention the issue in the "sticky" in this forum about the valve covers leaking oil into the cylinders and to check that to see if it was a contributing factor to the "check engine soon" light, but he said it all has to do with the tranny.
The only thing that's weird was that the tranny seemed smooth when it was switching gears (at all speeds) and wasn't clunky at all when putting it in and out of gear (forward or reverse).
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