Exactly what Blue Dream said. I'm not expert but I know to never apply wax in direct sunlight, heat, or cold temperatures.

I'm sure most of you all know if you're doing a full detail you should do the wash/rinse, clay, degreaser, and paint correct before the buffing.. That's just what I gather from reading a few detailing threads..

Hope the pad your buddy was using was the right one and was clean too. Good luck man.

 

^ Good point, maybe they used a soiled pad with dried wax/polish.

Ouch. What pad and wax was your buddy using? Have you tried polishing it? It has to have something to do with the wax..

 

OP it looks from the pictures that paint was removed. Can you feel a dip or a raised or flat when you run your finger over it.

What buffer did he use? If its anything under 100 bucks its crap and does nothing.

If its something raised on top of your paint his buffer pad was contaminated with some other crap, or he cause what ever wax polish you applied to super dry to your finish.

oh not to mention, you are suppose to move at a slow 1 inch per sec movment,(you can move a bit faster but). If you do anything to fast you are not polishing your car, you are making it worse. Who ever did this is a noob and car detailing. Dont let him touch your car again lol

 

The pictures are not good enough quality to tell but it kind of appears as if he had some dirt on the pad when he was working the polish and scratched the hood as a result. If thats the case, then you will have to wetsand/re-polish the hood back to its original state (and go to someone different). was he using a clean foam pad or a wool pad?

If these are scratches, you would be able to feel the scratch with your finger nails. if it went down to the primer (the first gen g35 primer is off-white/beige color) then a repaint is needed.

wax is applied, you dont need a rotary or a DA polisher. a cleaner wax, on the otherhand, has polish in it and requires some effort.
if you guys are actually "working" to apply a wax, then you either need to clay or polish your car to a smooth surface or dilute your wax appropriately.

 

if you look up videos which people who do is faster have a rotary but its not for noobs you can burn your paint. And the first time you use one you probably will.

Noobs like I am and you need a Dual Action Polisher, PC 7424 or Meguiars G110 which cannot burn your paint. Check a 8:30 he is going a little too fast but thats how a polishing process goes.

 

the 30 dollar rotaries i have used at harbor freight are just as powerful as the dewalt rotary. same goes for the 15 dollar chinese dual action polishers. the difference in price is made up by dewalts and porter cables reliability and longevity. the no-name pieces feel like they will break if you drop em'

 

that doesn't look too bad. they're only small scuff marks. *BREATHE*
use a mild compound to get that stuff out. it's NOT permanent. what kind of "buffer wheel" was he using? start from the beginning. use something to clean the car (strip all wax, etc.), clay, tape off, then start polishing. if polish doesn't work (i use optimum products) doesn't work, move up to medium compound. if that doesn't work, throw on some compound (do in very small portions). good luck!

 

+1
if they are indeed light scuffs. you can save some time and take it a step furthur by wetsanding.. if you dont want to wetstand, you can still remove the scratches by using polishing for a longer time + using more elbow greese.

2000 grit wet sandpaper, soaked in water and soap. mask off the area and sand in one direction. dry after each wipe and stop once the entire surface is even and dull. whip out a polish of your choice and start rubbing away until the surface is nice and glossy again. clean the surface, and wax. done.

any polish would be good. a meguires product is easy to work with and easy find at any auto store.

 

Got it!

 

Waxing by hand and with a machine provide the same EXACT results if you're applying the right way (as THIN as possible!)

Yes using a buffer is faster but not always the best method. Take paste wax for instance, you can only apply paste wax by hand.

To the OP, I have never waxed a car with snow on the ground and have never seen anything like the problem your pictures depicts. It could very well be that the wax hardened up because it was so cold outside.

One great tip for using a buffer, ALWAYS start the machine off at the LOWEST speed and work your way up from there. Depending on the buffer you should be on the lowest or close to when applying wax/sealant. If you have one of those $29.99 generic buffers from autozone, it's as good as garbage.

 

Same thing happened to my friend's SI. He used an old cloth and once we switched to a new one, the problem didn't happen.

 

hey everyone, have an update. I got a friend that works at a body shop he looked at it and said i'd have to get it out with wetsanding but some parts are through the clear coat.. he said my headlight should be fine and could be wetsanded out. Anyways i'll be painting the hood fender and bumper.. going to try and work out a deal with the body shop since i work at an auto shop and we deal with eachother all the time. Maybe can do some mechanical work for them in exchange for the paint job. Also he said there must of been compound on the buffer that was hardened and just dug into my paint.. i have splatter on my windshield hopefully i can get it off with a razor blade thanks to everyone who replied and helped me out.. was pretty stressed and although the worst thing came out of it which is paint at least i know what i have to do now and can get it fixed

 

Wow.. my "friend" would be the one paying for my paint thats for sure..
You shouldn't be responsible for damage he caused to your car through stupidity. he said he was qualified to do it.. hold him responsible.

 

can his incident happen to if you do this by hand with foam pads and microfiber to wipe off the wax?

cuz i would kill myself if this happened to me

 

i doubt it.. unless you got some crazy dirt/rock/boulder on your pads/mf