[B][/B]What do you know about Front Camber Arms?
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Annapolis, Maryland
I have installed and aligned multiple G/Z's with all the camber kits mentioned in this thread.
Ichiba- don't waste your time or money. Even at full positive you only get .5 degree over te stock arms. Plus the bushings go out easily.
SPC- do NOT use the spacers, they cause tons of problems. At your height the shouldn't knock and will give you a real positive adjustment of .75-1.0 degree over the stock arms.
SPL V3 - by far the best camber arms in terms of build quality and functionality. No knocking and real adjustment of 1.0 degree over stock arms.
If you don't plan to lower the car anymore than where it sits now, go with SPC and don't install the shims.
If do plan on going lower in the future, fork over the money for SPL V3's.
Ichiba- don't waste your time or money. Even at full positive you only get .5 degree over te stock arms. Plus the bushings go out easily.
SPC- do NOT use the spacers, they cause tons of problems. At your height the shouldn't knock and will give you a real positive adjustment of .75-1.0 degree over the stock arms.
SPL V3 - by far the best camber arms in terms of build quality and functionality. No knocking and real adjustment of 1.0 degree over stock arms.
If you don't plan to lower the car anymore than where it sits now, go with SPC and don't install the shims.
If do plan on going lower in the future, fork over the money for SPL V3's.
I can't remember which shop it was, some hole-in-the-wall place up in Orange County.
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From: San Diego/Redondo Beach
When you are installing the arms, max them out on both sides so the alignment shop doesn't have to mess with them, most don't like adjusting aftermarket parts as they just don't know how to. Your cross camber should end up right around the same as it is now so if one side is off from the other by .1-.2 degrees then I wouldn't worry about it.
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Registered User
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From: Annapolis, Maryland
Make sure you have the caster on SPC arms set to 0. This will keep the factory caster in spec.
When you are installing the arms, max them out on both sides so the alignment shop doesn't have to mess with them, most don't like adjusting aftermarket parts as they just don't know how to. Your cross camber should end up right around the same as it is now so if one side is off from the other by .1-.2 degrees then I wouldn't worry about it.
When you are installing the arms, max them out on both sides so the alignment shop doesn't have to mess with them, most don't like adjusting aftermarket parts as they just don't know how to. Your cross camber should end up right around the same as it is now so if one side is off from the other by .1-.2 degrees then I wouldn't worry about it.
having the same problem with my SPCs (which I recently found out were replicas). Nowhere near spec in the front. Not tryin to jack OP but can I just add some of those spacers for more positive adjustment?
know where I might be able to purchase some?
ENVautoDetailing.com
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From: San Diego/Redondo Beach
For optimal tire wear I'd shoot to be right around -1.0 up front and -1.5 in the rear
If you only want to get back into the high end of factory spec (-1.6 IIRC) then don't Max them out. With a 1.3" drop your camber is probably around -1.8 so if you max them out you'll be at -.8 to -1.0 for.
For optimal tire wear I'd shoot to be right around -1.0 up front and -1.5 in the rear
For optimal tire wear I'd shoot to be right around -1.0 up front and -1.5 in the rear
From personal experience I'm at -1.8 r -1.7 l in the front stock height... And toe is within spec.... The tire is definitely wearing on the inside but that's what these cars are known for.... I'm looking for cheap spc arms in the near future once I need new tires probably another 7 to 8 months
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From: San Diego/Redondo Beach
How do you figure that with 1.3" drop -camber will be at 1.8 degrees? From what I have seen the alignment shop I use, most 350z's and G's are already in the range of 1.8-1.2 negative degree on stock height.... So best case scenarios he is at 1.2 stock and would be at 2 or more negAtive with the drop? I'm just asking, I want to learn about these issues also
Every car is different so it will never be the same from one to another, i'm simply using an average from my experiences
hopefully it works favorably for the OP...let us know how it turns out... Another question about spc
Why are so many people in this particular thread having issues with the shim kit and not recommending its installation? Are the brackets being installed correctly or are abs sensors being damaged?
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i had the ichibas when i bought my car they were cheap and the bushings in theem were soft and felt like garbage. i am running all spl stuff now and it all feels great and tight to avoid the bumping there is a tab on the top of the front knuckle you have to grind off. the downside of the spl stuff is A. the price, but you get what you pay for. B. after a bit of time the spherical bearings start to squeak (for me atleast) so you have to spray a bit of lubricant on them. the spl front arms also have caster adjustments that if you cant get enough + camber then u can turn out the caster adjusters equally to get added camber