rev-up 6mt racing shift points
#31
#32
Ill try anywhere from 6400 to 7000 at the track, it will be good...maybe even next weekend if the weather holds up
#33
Usually crossing the 1/4 mile my mph should probably be between 101 and 104mph. By the time we are up to that speed im ATLEAST 2 car lengths ahead of him if not 2.5 Plus im getting 275's in the rear soon with a AA traction rating so they're softer and should help with 60foot times.
#34
it sounds like you do most of your racing on the street. have you made many passes down the track yet? if not dont be disappointed if you pass at sub 100mph your first few runs. the track is much different than the street. by the time you hit the 1/4 mile you should be touching 4th gear. id keep the rev light at 6700. thats where i keep mine.
Last edited by 1hotvq; 05-08-2011 at 10:56 AM.
#35
it sounds like you do most of your racing on the street. have you made many passes down the track yet? if not dont be disappointed if you pass at sub 100mph your first few runs. the track is much different than the street. by the time you hit the 1/4 mile you should be touching 4th gear. id keep the rev light at 6700. thats where i keep mine.
The next strip is 3 hours+ away,,,,they hate us here
#36
it sounds like you do most of your racing on the street. have you made many passes down the track yet? if not dont be disappointed if you pass at sub 100mph your first few runs. the track is much different than the street. by the time you hit the 1/4 mile you should be touching 4th gear. id keep the rev light at 6700. thats where i keep mine.
#37
I think you guys are still forgetting the whole mechanical advantage thing...
Lets use 2nd and 3rd gear for example. Third has 1.33x the top speed of second gear, and therefore will take 1.33x the power to accelerate at the same rate.
So unless your car happens to produce an extra 33% power at, say, 4700 where it would fall if you shifted at 6500 than it does at 7000 (almost not way that's gonna happen), then there's something "wrong" that's causing your car to pull timing at high RPM's.
Lets use 2nd and 3rd gear for example. Third has 1.33x the top speed of second gear, and therefore will take 1.33x the power to accelerate at the same rate.
So unless your car happens to produce an extra 33% power at, say, 4700 where it would fall if you shifted at 6500 than it does at 7000 (almost not way that's gonna happen), then there's something "wrong" that's causing your car to pull timing at high RPM's.
#38
quit the street racing, reckless driving talk on this forum or you will end up getting threads closed and risking bans and the likes.
#39
Quit the street racing, reckless driving talk on this forum or you will end up getting threads closed and risking bans and the likes. Nobody wants to hear about how you drive around fast and furious style endangering the public...
#40
Revo, I completely agree. The same point is made by examining the power and tq curves through each gear, since it will show the maximum power and tq transferred to the wheels SHOULD be greater at high end of gear A than at the rpms after a shift to gear A+1.
I think the "test" regimen I prescribed will also show the best point for the OP's car and driving style. I think its safe to say that shifting at 6800rpms means different things for each of us.
OP, I'd be pleased to hear the results of your trials, but I am patient and can wait until the next time you hit the track.
#41
I was simply saying that the OP may be shifting too late and at WOT is hitting the limiter so upon engaging the clutch at his next shift the RPM is "dropping" not "climbing" causing him to notice a slower time.
Solution, again, is to film himself doing a run and he should be able to gauge where he needs to shift depending on his habits and ability.
Solution, again, is to film himself doing a run and he should be able to gauge where he needs to shift depending on his habits and ability.
#42
I was simply saying that the OP may be shifting too late and at WOT is hitting the limiter so upon engaging the clutch at his next shift the RPM is "dropping" not "climbing" causing him to notice a slower time.
Solution, again, is to film himself doing a run and he should be able to gauge where he needs to shift depending on his habits and ability.
Solution, again, is to film himself doing a run and he should be able to gauge where he needs to shift depending on his habits and ability.
However I shouldn't post anymore until I have track results so ill keep quiet.
#43
#44
Let's say I hit the rev limiter, and I have before. However it's not like it drops to 3k or anything.
If you are shifting and you blip the limiter slightly and it goes off while the clutch pedal is fully engaged....then when you get into your next gear and release the clutch, your gearing will still put you at a lower rev point than what you were reving near as the limiter bounced.
When I shift it sounds like an automatic
#45
I would say "relax, no need to get testy" but now is the time to get testy! Lets have wpg_g35 (the OP) get us some data, and we'll have a definitive answer.
Just a guess: its very possible that the limiter is at 7000rpm, but the engine is capable of passing it as the fuel cuts off (probably for emissions or something). Klumzyee's point is that if your car cuts off fuel, even with your foot on the pedal, when you downshift the engine may be "decelerating" as you engage the clutch. This would make it feel like the shift yields less power than expected, and would indeed affect your times.
Just a guess: its very possible that the limiter is at 7000rpm, but the engine is capable of passing it as the fuel cuts off (probably for emissions or something). Klumzyee's point is that if your car cuts off fuel, even with your foot on the pedal, when you downshift the engine may be "decelerating" as you engage the clutch. This would make it feel like the shift yields less power than expected, and would indeed affect your times.