If only we had a cable operated throttle body
My track is opening on May 21st so that's not too far.
Also, my g35 has 36 000 miles...aren't factory plugs good till 100 000km?
Either way my air filter is also fresh, has about 2000km on it.
My cat's might be clogged but regardless I'm sure ART pipes will open up the top end .
I might do one dyno pull just to see what the timing is and what the curve looks like, as well as a/f obviously.

 

Meh...I know a cable would be swell, but really, you just need a tune that maximizes response...i heard an osirus is the way to go...need to reach my savings targets before I can get HFCs, exhaust, and pulleys, then I'll tune.

I can wait till May 21, but you betta post the results haha. I truly am interested in how it turns out for you, I may change my shifting habits based on your results.

Factory plugs should be good, but running different fuels, time between oil changes, etc, can cause premature wear. Just pull the #6 out (which I hear is the problem on some variety of our engine) and see how she's doing.

A clean AF is key, good to hear it.

I don't know much about cat maintenance, lol hairball.

A dyno isn't necessary. If you're gonna do some mods, wait till you get them all in then spend the $ and time on the dyno. I think your test runs on the track are gonna be the key here. BTW for transparancy, I suggested doing the 5x7000rpm and 5x6500rpm runs first to get the car warmed up. That way you have the most controlled setting for the remaining runs.

 

Ill pull #6 plug and see what it looks like. As far as oil changes, I used to do them every 3000km but now its never past 2000km. I use pennzoil 5w30 and a good wix filter. As far as fuel I use shell premium 91 octane ALWAYS I treat this girl right

 

91?? I'm 93 every day except sometimes 92 when i can't find 93. crank up the octane!

 

the only other octane they sell in my area is husky/mohawk 94 and its 10% ethanol blended....the shell 91 has no ethanol.

Ok I checked the spark plug in #6 and WOAH what a pita...anyways theres no oil on the spark plug tube and the plug is dry so that is a good sign.
Here are a few pics of the spark plug.
I tried doing the [img] [/img] to show the pic but it didn't work...here's the link though
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/038pik.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/34/039gm.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/688/040lr.jpg/

 

CA uses 91

 

Looks a little dark, but I don't know if id call it worn. I'll leave this up to our more experienced members.

 

According to a few reading guides on spark plugs...I definitely need a colder plug.

 

Colder? I'd stick with whatever the manufacturer recommends unless the car is modified...or unless there is some common knowledge that I've been too ignorant to note that says our plugs are too hot and we should get colder ones.

 

apparently if 4 or more threads from the top are black and the rest are clean..the plug is running way too hot. A couple sources claim this.

 

I promise results soon so dont get mad
After looking at many guides on reading spark plugs without a doubt I need to atleast try a heat range colder double platinum ngk. Even the factory recommends a colder plug in warm climates and consistent high rpm operation. I may live in Canada but this is STRICTLY a summer car and it gets over 30*C( with the humidity it feels like 36+*C) many times in the summer. If my mileage goes down and the plugs start to get carbon deposits..I will know to go back to a "5" heat range.

I don't know what the track will bring but I just wanted to say this....with mathematical equations there are always exceptions to a rule. With that being said, redlining every gear doesn't guarantee maximum acceleration.

* I know a respectable guy that fabricates downpipes and that kind of thing and he has a 240sx that runs 10.3 in the 1/4mile. I mentioned this to him and he said he always shifted at redline/almost at the limiter. Then on the same day his buddy took his car down the track and held back a little as it wasn't his car. He shifted much lower, but his launch was the same and all that.....he ended up being faster every time when shifting lower. They did a few more runs with the exact same results, interesting

However, I have stock exhaust with stock cats and oem hr y-pipe...Im sure top end will breath MUCH MUCH better with ART pipes and thus making use of 6500-7000rpm.

 

Ended up getting ngk iridiums but in an oem "5" heat range..It was worth it as the other plugs were dirty. So spark plugs are good, air filter looks like new, fresh engine oil, rear diff fluid, tranny fluid...I should be good to go

 

its been a while but Im back, now with ART pipes
Going to the track this friday evening...stay tuned

 

Turbocharged cars are much more likely to have a drop off in power at higher RPM if the setup isn't designed to hold power to max RPM...

On a naturally aspirated car, pretty much EVERY engine short of the old 70's muscle cars with the 3000RPM redline 500ci V8's will yield the most performance by being redlined...

Can't compare turbo to non-turbo, that's not apples to apples.

On a NA car, G especially, the more you rev it, the better.

 

Hey there, just curious as to what your results where at the track?