so my 04 Coupe M6 burns oil unfortunately and I'm stuck in a dilemma. I can replace the entire engine with another one for about $2500 incl the new engine and labour.. but then I'm not guaranteed that the new engine wont burn oil either.

OR, I can just tear the engine apart and change the piston rings which would solve my problem and be guaranteed that my current engine wont burn oil.

The engine has pretty good mileage (115,000KM or 72,000 Miles).

Does anyone have an idea roughly what I'd be looking at in labour to have the engine torn down and the piston rings replaced?

Thanks in advance!

 

wow 115000km is still pretty fresh...

 

how much oil?

 

Im stuck on the same boat as you. Only thing is the engine im gettin is gonna cost me about 6k & like u said it might burn oil aswell.

I'm definitely keepin up with this post to see the results you get.
Mine is an 06 Rev-Up and it burns about 1&1/2qrts every month!

 

What oil weight are you guys running?

 

Currently im using Castro Edge Full Synthetic 5w-30 before that I used Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30

 

^ Yep as I thought

First if your burning a lot of oil your wasting your money buying expensive oil.

try 5W40 or 10W30, thicker oils will limit or eliminate consumption. And since you live in LA it stays warm enough to use thicker oil year round. Try it out

 

Its the same price for every synthetic grade level. So your tellin me to switch to none synthetic?

Cuz im plannin on doing my oil change on sunday. Im thinkin going with 10w-30. Oh just incase u wanted to kno my car only has 62,XXX miles

 

Well if you are burning a lot of oil putting in a "Synthetic" becomes expensive, its just a thought. But yea try 10W30 thats a bit thicker when fully warmed up.

 

06 rev-up..

there's a TSB out for your car.. you might be entitled to a new engine..

also.. no need for 10w-30...

i've used the Edge and M1 5w-30 in my car.. and they burned outta control.. these two actually shear a lot towards end of their life..
try running the Castrol Syntec 0w-30 from Autozone.. it's pretty thick up top, so it should burn much less.. or you could do M1 5w-30 (3 quarts) and M1 0w-40 (2 quarts)

 

Edge and Syntec are thin to start, and thin to end a normal OCI they will not shear that much. Being thiner side of 30W, thats probably why they "burned outta control" in your engine

0W30 is hard to come by since its only sold at Autozone and is more expensive, Syntec or Edge 10W30 have similar viscosity to 0W30 when at operating temp and can be found everywhere. Syntec 0W30 is more shear stable I believe then 10W30. But that depends how long you run it, and if you are burning oil you will be adding fresh oil.

Also Mixing different viscosity oils is dumb, while you can do it they are formulated differently. And you never know what viscosity your going to get.

M1 0W40 is also oil that alot of people with VQ's run with.

10W30, German Castrol 0W30, and M1 0W40 are good choices to start.

Autozone
0W30 - 8.99 a quart
10W30 5.99 a quart
M1 0W40 8.49 a quart

 

Joedaddy1- trust me man I have been to a couple of dealers and they all say they cant help me bcuz I have no records of the previous owner making maintenance on the first 10k miles on the car so that means the car has poor history of maintenance which cause the OC on the engine.




Thescreensavers- thanks for all the info. I might go with the M1 0w-40 this sunday and see how that goes.

 

UMMM....yeah lets see what the issue is here with this. You have a very expensive problem and the dealer give you a bogus answer. Instead of questioning it you decide to accept their BS answer an go on. Did you even bother reading the TSB. I am not going to tell you how wrong you are and hope you read the TSB and figure it out. Specifically read the part about when the customer has no service receipts for oil change history.


https://g35driver.com/forums/attachm...itb08-002d.pdf

 

It does not say customer, it says to the tech, to check the oil level if the customer did not service it at the dealer last oil change.

Only other place it lists oil changes is at the top of the flow chart "ACCEPTABLE INFINITINET OIL CHANGE HISTORY AVAILABLE?"

here is the issue, If you have receipts and such and they find your oil changes acceptable your good, but for the first 10k he has no history.

I hate the dealer I know how much a pain in the a$$ it can be to deal with some 3 buck bolts but for a major engine part your going to need to play hardball, they expect you to just forget about it, after they initially shoved you away.

Questions such as where did you buy the car, from infiniti? If they said it still had warranty when you bought it then it has warranty, they should of said it has no engine warranty when they sold it to you.

Simply put, If I was in your shoes, and I had oil change receipts/history through 50k miles, but not the first 10k miles and your engine is burning oil exactly according to the TSB which is exactly for your engine, then the dealer should at least run the oil consumption test, if it fails then go from their.

Id bring a copy of the TSB and show them that whats happening to your motor is exactly described in an "OFFICIAL NISSAN OF NORTH AMERICA INFINITI SERVICE BULLETIN DOCUMENT"


If they refuse to even do the consumption test, just call Infiniti of North America, and explain it to them, if they still cant get it done, then file a report with the BBB.

 

yeah, the screensaver is right.. they're about to bend you over. I'd make sure and have another word with the dealer!