I was in the mountains last week doing some driving in my 06 6MT Coupe. I found what has to be one of the best driving roads on the east coast and was really pushing it on some switchbacks and hairpins. This car (stock sport tuned suspension) with Hankook Evo's really performs like a champ. All four tires squealing in the curves but still minimal understeer and no drama.

However, on the way back down the mountain I started getting a shudder from the right front under heavy braking. Did not notice this on the way up even though there was heavy braking then as well. There was no brake fade or mushiness, no grinding or brake squeal, just the shudder and only when really braking hard. It was not the road surface as it was freshly paved (this road was seriously a dream drive). Under normal driving conditions with moderate heavy braking, smooth as can be.

Any thoughts? Is this just a worn rotor? Warped rotor? Pad problem?

I have no idea how old the rotors or pads are. Car has 85k miles on it.

 

I just replaced my rotors after having my stockies turned about a year ago. Seems like they just don't last (and I don't do any type of performance driving). My uneducated guess is a slightly warped rotor.
Getting them turned will probably be a short-term fix, but replacing them w/ quality rotors and pads would probably be your better option.
GL!
rob.g

 

It does should like you have a warped rotor, if it's not too bad have it turned. One of the reasons for warped rotors is having your wheels installed with an impact gun, it over tightens the crap out of your lugs thusly warping your rotors. If your tire shop doesn't have a torque wrench go some where else....setting is 85.
Gary

 

yep +1 couldnt have said it better myself

 

Be sure to check the shims as well, if the shims are not installed properly (loose or missing) you can get shudder under hard braking.

Jason

 

Thanks guys. Can't say if this is a lug nut torque issue. The car had 75k miles on it when I got it so who knows. The current tires are from Discount Tire and I think they do it right. No problem removing lug nuts after they have put them on.

I probably will not have the cash to do anything about the brakes until/if it starts to be a problem with normal driving.

However, since I hope to take it to the track sometime in the next 12 months I will likely get some good pads (EBC Yellowstuff) and new fluid and stainless brake lines. If the rotors can be turned, I'll do it, otherwise will get EBC performance rotors.

 

Trust me Discount Tire isn't going to do the job right unless you demand they use a torque wrench. Large cooperations are in it for the $$ and do their job as quick as possible. They'd be glad to sell you as new set of rotors and over torque those to when installed.
They're already a problem if you're feeling a vibration under braking, it only gets worse. If you need rotors and your OEs can't be turned step up to DBAs and Hawk HP pads, far better than EBCs....I promise!
Gary

 

It probably is a warped rotor which could have happened on the mountain. Cheaper rotors can get warped under hard driving because they can get really hot and then deform.

 

The Discount Tire here claims proper torque specs and they do not do brakes, oil changes or alignments. They only sell, mount, balance and repair tires.

Hmmm, that's odd. I've heard the exact opposite on this site and amongst track drivers especially regarding the Hawks. Hard to know who's right.

Plus, as far as I can find no one else makes a pad for street and track like the EBC Yellowstuff pads. Maybe they don't do either thing well for all I know but I've had them recommended by a number of regular track drivers. I'll do more research.

 

That is certainly a possibility. I was driving hard for three consecutive days, about a full hour and a half of hard driving each time. Lots of braking. But if it was that much heat I'm surprised there was no brake fade or mushiness.

Like I say, if symptoms show up in my daily driving I'll start shopping and researching new pads and rotors.

What do you guys think about cutting brand new rotors?

 

Did you drive around after your hard driving to let your setup cool off before parking the car? This is crucial. Also, coming to a full stop and holding your foot on the brake to keep your car "in place" at a light while your brake system is extremely hot can also cause problems.

 

Yes, they had plenty of time to cool down. I did not think of that but it just worked out that way.