How many RPMs has anyone safely turned? How about you guys with upgraded rods?
The mitsubishi 4g63 motors (older eclipse) had a factory red line of 7k, but you can safely turn 8500 on a 1st gen motor with stock parts - balance shafts removed.
I know the VQ is not as stout on the bottom, but how high will it go. I decided to gamble a little today. I pushed it to 7000. It didn't break !!! I don't imagine the stock cams are very effective above this point anyway, but I'm just curious how far anyone has pushed it.

By the way, to bring up an old arguement, I got 4th gear scratch when I pushed to 7k. I wasn't sure if I was imagining things, so I checked and there was about 3' black marks. It made me smile.

Merry Christmahanaquanzika!

 

Not much point in going past 6600 rpms, max torque is at 4800, and max hp is at 6200.
My stock Coupe won't let me go past about 6700 b4 the limiter kicks in.
The guys who have had the technosquare ECU reflash can go to 7k b4 the limiter kicks in.

 

I used to shift right before 7200rpm. Of course I can't really participate in this conversation because I blew my motor up.

 

Kevin.....Point well taken.....LOL
I'm sure your new motor will be bulletproof....
Lots of luck....

 

At least once per week hit the modified [JWT ecu] redline 6900>7300 rpm on my 15 year old 1990 Q45 V8 with 273,000 miles on the oem engine. Hopefully a well oil changed - maintained G35 V6 will do ALMOST as well in the future. However newer light weight designs may be a bit more flimsy............only time will tell.

 

I have a TechnoSquare reflashed ECU and a slightly modded engine, Intake & exhaust goodies. The mid range and Top end is now much stronger than stock and I often go beyond the factory redline and shift at 6.8K to 7K RPM.

Lou

 

blew it up?? who, what, when,where, and why???????? ! ! !

 

6.5 6.6 gotta shift correctly with coordination or ur gonna go well over and hit the limiter.. lol jus gotta learn how to shift at those points.

 

So the stock limiter is set at what? I never felt it kick in. I shifted 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th all at 6900-7100. It never even blipped at me. I know for a fact the needle was on the far edge of 7000 from 2nd to 3rd.

As far as oil changes and well maintaned. That has nothing to do with it. That may prolong the life of the bearings and such, but too many rpms breaks parts - rods. They either break or they don't. They can either handle the stresses of a certain rpm or they can't. It really has nothing to do with lubrication.

As far as the max torque and hp rpms, I have my own theory on that. With the gearing of 2nd and lets hypothetically say 240hp at 7000k, I believe that it propels the car just as effectively as in 3rd at peak hp and rpm. I never have believed in shifting at peak hp rpms. The gearing makes up for it. If you only had a rear differential ratio of 2.55, you'd need 500-600hp to be as fast as the same car with 3.73 gears and only 350hp. I have proven this to myself at the track - not with the G. Shifting at redline results in faster e.t.s than shifting at peak hp rpms.

 

I don't see the point in going higher unless you can make effective torque that high. That being said, revving higher may neccesitate a stronger bottom end. Peak piston speeds will start climbing. Tensile loads will increase. Too much tensile loading and the parts can start to fatigue and eventually fail.

 

Rear end gearing has little to do with ET's in that of itself. It will depend also on what the transmission gearing is. Given the same transmission, the overall gearing of the car will change if you swap the final gears, and it will likely make it harder to get off the line in 1st gear if you use a numerically lower final gear. But once you reach speed it should accelerate about the same as it did before. Thus, you may see a change in the ET's , but very little change in the Trap speeds.

As far as 240HP at 7000 RPM and Peak HP or torque in 3rd gear, it really depends on the ratios. Or more accurately, it will depend on how much torque you are putting to the wheels at any of those points. The more torque you make at the wheels, the faster you will be accelerating. Being in a higher gear will lower the torque multiplication, so in actual application, your car usually accelerated faster in the lower gear until the torque drops off so much that shifting to the next gear will put more torque to the ground by putting the motor at a RPM where there will be more torque to the wheels, even with the taller gear, to the ground. In most cars, first and second gears will hit redline before the cross-over point is reached. But the rest of the gears are usually spaced closer together and shifting before redline can actually result in faster acceleration times. This of couorse depends on the gearing and characteristics of the motor, but it is the case with most cars.

 

at what rpm do you guys shift from 1st to 2nd after you launch and floor it... i used to redline it but now i personally like shifting at 5.5 instead because theres less wheel spin and its easier to control...

 

Ok, so at first it sounded like you were disagreeing with me, but then you went on to agree with all the reasoning I gave for pushing it to red line instead of short shifting. So what exactly is your opinion on the matter?

Ao back to my original question - how many rpms will the stock rods handle? does anyone know the answer (or have an opinion based on actual information) to this question?

 

From everything I've read I don't think you will have any short term issues shifting at redline (6800 rpm). The only people who have issues with the rods breaking are TT people who are making big torque numbers. The supercharger people (myself included) are known to have piston ring issues. The NA crowd haven't experianced any issues that I know of. You have to remember that Nissan builds these engines to last 200,000 miles under almost any driving condition.