Wow Paul, only 10 whp gain with a tune....that's just very wrong! At SpecialtyZ Sep did a couple base pulls +/- 243 whp and the final after several more was 267 whp. You need to know what you started with so you have some idea that spending all that $$ for a tune was worth it. You went from the Stillen true dual exhaust back to using a y-pipe....why?
Gary

 

The reason for getting rid of the true-duel was that after I put on the HFC’s the exhaust was terribly loud and by putting the Fuji system on it quieted it down allot and provided a nice low tone. I couldn't reuse the Stillen y-pipe being it was split to only fit their true-duel exhaust.

 

You need a dyno with the Air to fuel ratios too.. You can't tell whats going on without them. Just email them and ask them for your dyno that shows the AFR's too. They can do it dyanmically on the computer and just email it back to you.

From the dyno your showing...all we can tell is that your losing power after 6300rpms. Thats a little low, you should be making power up until 7k or close to it since you have a rev-up with the more aggressive cam profile compared to a regular de.

 

All, I read through this thread and I want to contribute. I recently got my car dyno'ed on a Dynojet here in Baton Rouge, LA. The shop is called CNR and they work mostly on imports. I put down 230 at the wheels with 214 ft/lbs of torque. I asked the tuner, Matt, as to why the numbers are so low and he said that the particular dyno that I was on reads lows. He also said that if two different cars dyno for the same horsepower and torque numbers, that their car (the one that was dyno'ed at CNR) would almost always win in a drag. Here are a list of my mods.

MREV2
Motordyne 5/16" ISO Spacer
M2 HR-style Y-pipe
K&N Drop-in Filter
Stock Exhaust
Custom Grounding Kit
ECU was reset while on dyno

My car is a 06 G35 6MT with 55k miles

 

Please tell me that dyno sheet you posted is from before they tuned it... that is stupid lean

 

Actually it is perfectly normal. Can't see the AFR like previously mentioned, but from the graphs it looks like a good tune. Gains are where they should be, and unless you have headers/cams no DE is going to make power all the way to 7K. They drop like a rock after 6200

 

Correct. No tune. I'll get an Osiris tune when I finish all of my bolt on mods.

 

Ah, gotcha, I would aim for it sooner rather than later... I've worked with Alberto at Corr performance before, if you are looking to get a dyno tune he knows what he's doing

 

Cool. Yeah I know about Corr in Kenner, LA. I'll give them a call and see what they have to say. Do you know where I could find a discounted Osiris Tuner kit?

My concern is having to get multiple tunes when I add more to my setup. I don't think i will get a new muffler. I like the sound of the stock exhaust. I want to get high flow cats at one point and then maybe get headers as well. I would change my mind on an exhaust if I could find one that sounds good and is around the same sound as stock with better flow.

I have a feeling the dyno at CNR reads lower than other dynos. Comparably, I had a prelude with full bolt-ons and a 3" exhaust making 190 whp with a full tune. It was on a dynopack though.

 

Actually I do, I'll shoot you a PM

I would not go for a dyno tune unless you're completely done with your mods, you're basically paying for the Osiris license ($300) and $150+/hr for the tuners labor to dial it in for your current setup.

Purchasing the cable/license separately is a much better option for most people since you can easily adjust the tune with datalogs over email as you mod, and you will have the peace of mind knowing that your car is running close to optimal at all stages of modding. You'll notice a big boost in responsiveness from syncing the electronic throttle, stronger & smoother pulling due to the corrected AFR, as well as cool features like map switching.

Once you're completely done with your mods if you want to get on the dyno and dial it in you will only have to pay for the actual tuning labor, not the "flash and tune" price since you'll already own the license. And you can always reflash back to stock and sell it used or use it on a different vehicle since you'll own the cable.

Unless you have something similar to compare it to (a previous run from your car, etc) then dyno numbers are just that... numbers

 

PM me. I'm interested.

 

I have my uprev cipher cable so you can datalog, diagnostics etc just have to add the license. $146 shipped let me know they go for $200+ from uprev text me if you want 210-422-0920