Hey guys,

This is my first post as a member and unfortunately is not a happy one. I just bought a 2006 G35 Coupe 6MT driven 115,000 kms . Randomly I saw the VDC, Slip and RAS lights on my dash and decided to do a quick search. Turns out that this happens more then often and I read up on the reasons these lights come on. First of all, I do have the RAS (Rear Active Steering) as I checked under my trunk for the Infiniti HICAS module.

I know repeat threads are annoying to you guys so here is what I found as the common reasons for the lights to go on and my scenario (correct me if im wrong):

1. Low break fluid : Mine is fully topped up right to the MAX point
2. Worn Break Pads: I checked mine out from the mechanics and they seem to be brand new along with the rotors
3. Reset ECU: Tried the throttle and battery pull method both did not work
4. Certain mods like exhaust, rims, or coilovers: Mine is completely stock
5. Tires size: I have stock rims with stock tire specifications
6. Speed sensors are the only thing I didn't really check

So the lights are still on and I took the car to an electrical specialist in my area. He gave me the code CC1137 for the RAS malfunction which is also casuing the VDC and Slip light to come on. He said the only way to take those lights off is to replace the RAS module which costs around $6000-7000 from the local infiniti dealer here in Mississauga (Toronto area)!!

I am really hoping that this is not true and if you guys have any input for ways to help me out I would greatly appreciate it. Any advice or places I can take the car to would help a lot.Thank you in advance.

 

I had that problem it was my tires my rear tire was bigger then my front tire, the car has to be even

 

I just turn off my VDC light...ALL the time...EVERY time I drive the car. It's a "driver aid" that you don't need and an expensive annoyance should you decide to fix it. Your other option is to fix it. If you're over that 100k mark, get used to seeing it rather frequently. New tires may subside the beast, but much like a herpes, it will come back.

 

Thanks for the responses guys. So did changing the tires make the lights go away for you guys or are they still on? Also as I said i have stock spec. Tires all round so i should still try changing them?

And my VDC is completely inoperative pressing the button does nothing.

 

What size are your tires? Tires that are out more than around 2% from factory diameters can sometime upset the driver aids...

 

I'd check the speed sensor. It could make those lights come on.

 

Your button is inactive because the system is inoperative. In most cases, I'd say turn off the car and turn it back on, but I'm sure you've done that by now. lol. I don't think this is going to be an easy or cheap answer buddy.

 

Yeah unfourtuantely im the thinking the same. And as for the question above my tire sizes are 225/40/19 front and 245/40/19 rear (that is stock spec. Right? ). Il probably go check out the speed sensors but I need a good mechanic familiar with infinitis. I have read a lot about simone performance and APS in the toronto area, maybe they would know whats going on

 

Does your reset ECU Throttle mean the ignition?

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

 

Yes I tried the first method you listed and just now tried the second more easier way and no luck. Lights still turn on after driving for aprx 10 seconds.

 

The rear tire is taller then the front from the factory, on any model that had a staggered setup. The tires do not need to be evenly sized they just have to be within the 3% variation window.
Yes, those are stock sizes.

 

Personally if this was happening to me with a used car I had just bought I'd return it to the seller and get my money back.

 

is your car a coupe..?

 

Yes its a 2006 coupe. And to reply to Dr.Ephil: I dont have the option to return it i bought it private deal...but is it such a big problem that I should return it? The car drive and performs great besides the lights and the VDC being off. I find it odd that theres issues like this on a 2006 car driven 115000kms or aprx. 65-70000 miles.

 

It's not that big a deal. Dr. Ephil is just the type of guy that wants a new-used car. lol. As far as the issue being odd, it's not odd if the car was driven in a manner to upset the VDC for those 60+k miles. I've seen cars with 27k miles have odd issues. IN the same token, I've seen cars with over 100k miles with no issues. It's 60% owner and 40% car. That said, 40% is still pretty hefty. lol