Got my new OEM radiator in and am planning on installing it tomorrow..



No idea what these are for... Hoping someone can help me out..




EDIT: Pics fixed.

Didnt need to upgrade. Im not turbo or supercharged.. just running an NA setup. The only radiator I found that was upgraded that didnt require a bunch of custom fab was that all aluminum one (Koyo maybe) cant remember.

Got into it today and realized that there doesnt appear to be any place to bolt the AC condenser to the radiator itself... Im really ticked about this. Maybe the hardware has something to do with that. .ugh.

 

Pics aren't working.

 

If you HAD to replace the OEM radiator you should have upgraded to an aftermarket one imo lol Oh and pics arent working!

 

Also dont really know what those two gold studs sticking out of the bottom end tank are for..? They are hollow on the inside and I can see fluid leaking out through them..

 

Automatic trans cooler

 

Being that in 6mt what do I have to do with them..? Plug them somehow..? Would my existing radiator have them plugged and could I use the plugs from the existing radiator?

Thanks

Also any idea what the extra hardware is for..?

 

If you're a 6MT, you shouldn't have a trans cooler attached to your radiator. If there is one in your replacement rad, you can just plug it up. The "extra hardware"in the pic is the AT cooler fittings and the captive nuts for attaching the the condensor.

 

Oh ok so I wont be needing that extra stuff, and just need to plug the trans cooler holes on the radiator.

 

Can someone second this... Just got off the phone with the owner of a local radiator shop and he tells me that most replacement radiators will have the AT fittings on the back weather its 6mt or auto.. He said either cap them or just leave them alone and do nothing....... Did I miss understand what he said..? Wont coolant leak out through them if I leave them open..?

Im out in the garage with the car all pulled apart right now, if someone has a quick answer that would be super helpful right now.

Thanks

 

The bottom section of your replacement radiator isn't connected to the main section. On an auto trans car, the ATF flows in and out of the trans cooler. Since you have an MT, the bottom portion of the rad won't be used. It doesn't really matter if you plug the inlet/outlet or not.

 

Thanks k67p67. I got it all installed and it seems to be running great again. No leaks like before, no overheating, and my heater works after venting the system a few times. Thanks for the help!

 

Be sure to keep an eye on your temp gauge. Our cooling systems are notoriously difficult to bleed. Trapped air may not be immediately apparent.

 

EXACTLY! Wasnt overheating in the garage but when I took it for a drive Im overheating as soon as I turn off the heat. Brought it back home and vented a ton more air..

Probably stupid question, but with the temp **** all the way to 90* and the AC button pressed, should I be getting hot air coming into the cabin (because I am not)? I could have swore I used to get hot air no matter if the AC button was pressed or not.

Also, whats the best way to get all the air out of the system? Just keep driving and bleeding till when I open the cap no more air is coming out..?


EDIT/SOLUTION:

So got everything working properly again. Heater working both with the AC button pressed or not. Keep in mind, when venting the air out of the system, to let some coolant come out, NOT JUST AIR. You want to vent till youre able to fully remove the cap. Do this a few times running the motor in between each vent cycle. The first few times I was venting I was not letting any coolant leak out with the air, but this is apparently INCORRECT. Coolant and air will both come out of the radiator cap. Just remember to keep the res at the max mark.

Thanks everyone for the help!

 

Opening the rad cap when the coolant is hot is a good way to wind up with a face full of scalding hot liquid. There is a bleed screw on the upper coolant pipe near the firewall. Easiest way to bleed the cooling system is to use a funnel like the ones made by Lisle in conjunction with the bleed screw.

 

Yes. Forgot to include the warnings.