Engine Cranks, But Won't Start (Loose Key Chip?)
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 81
Likes: 29
From: Fort Wayne, IN
Engine Cranks, But Won't Start (Loose Key Chip?)
Good evening folks,
I went to start my G yesterday, and although it would crank like crazy, the engine would not turn over. I installed a new battery two weeks ago, checked all fuses, trickle charged the battery last night, but with no luck. Tonight, I noticed that when I'm trying to start the engine that the red security light stays on solid. In my quest of reading every 'engine cranks, but...' thread, I came across a "Reset Lock Out" procedure, however this had no affect.
In my frustration, I took my key off the key chain and gave it a good shake. It rattles like a shaker egg. Is this a loose chip inside my key? Is there anyway that I can put it back in place? If I take my key to the dealer, can they repair it/issue a new key without the car being present?
I only have one key, so I can't try a spare to test. My OBD II reader is being delivered tomorrow so I can check for any other codes that might be causing this non-start.
If anyone has insight on the issue, any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance!
UPDATE: I was able to remove the chip from the key, and it was still in its holder. Apparently a little shake is to be expected. Still cannot start the car.
I went to start my G yesterday, and although it would crank like crazy, the engine would not turn over. I installed a new battery two weeks ago, checked all fuses, trickle charged the battery last night, but with no luck. Tonight, I noticed that when I'm trying to start the engine that the red security light stays on solid. In my quest of reading every 'engine cranks, but...' thread, I came across a "Reset Lock Out" procedure, however this had no affect.
In my frustration, I took my key off the key chain and gave it a good shake. It rattles like a shaker egg. Is this a loose chip inside my key? Is there anyway that I can put it back in place? If I take my key to the dealer, can they repair it/issue a new key without the car being present?
I only have one key, so I can't try a spare to test. My OBD II reader is being delivered tomorrow so I can check for any other codes that might be causing this non-start.
If anyone has insight on the issue, any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance!
UPDATE: I was able to remove the chip from the key, and it was still in its holder. Apparently a little shake is to be expected. Still cannot start the car.
Last edited by brazen; Mar 11, 2013 at 11:23 PM.
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 81
Likes: 29
From: Fort Wayne, IN
Well I hooked up the OBD II scanner, and received a P1610 code - NATS Malfunction.
This appears to be the anti-theft immobilizer, and I'm assuming it is due to my key's chip becoming corrupt. Can someone confirm that this is completely an issue with the key, and not also an issue with the immobilizer in the car, simply from the code?
I have the G parked in my garage right now, and will need to tow it to the dealer to get a new key programmed. Has anyone had any luck with a locksmith being able to program our transponder keys, or is my only option the dealership?
Thanks!
This appears to be the anti-theft immobilizer, and I'm assuming it is due to my key's chip becoming corrupt. Can someone confirm that this is completely an issue with the key, and not also an issue with the immobilizer in the car, simply from the code?
I have the G parked in my garage right now, and will need to tow it to the dealer to get a new key programmed. Has anyone had any luck with a locksmith being able to program our transponder keys, or is my only option the dealership?
Thanks!
same problem
i am facing the same problem now. i have the smart key and i noticed when i get in the car to start the car it wont turn and it will show a red key sign on the dash, but even when i use the real key to turn the car on, it will crank fine with the motor fans on but it wont start. the car parked at my job now, i was thinking it is the ecu not getting signal or connection with car...
Check the fuse box behind the battery, I had this same problem and one of the 15amp fuses had blown. Now the reason it blew took me awhile to find but that was because I had a short in my o2 sensor wire.
my problem started when i was programing my ecu with cobb access port and the voltage went low causing the battery to die in the middle of the down loading , now car wont start , but it cranks , service engine wont light up when turning the key on, slip light stays on and vdc stays on, people been telling me i fried my ecu but tomorrow i am shipping the ecm to cobb so they can test it and tell me if it is fried. fans go on when i turn keys to on, Ap wont read my ecu anymore to at least go and finish down loading...it suck , all fuses are fine... i don't know what to check after, battery was left disconnected over night...
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