Coupe Random Little Question Thread
#1396
i didnt see anyway why would that be broken, guess i will drive with vdc off for now since i didnt have a real drive for the longest time
#1397
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Conyers, Ga
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Infiniti G35 coupe V6
Money pit
So I bought my 04 G35 about 1month and a half ago. It had issues from the jump but they were manageable. It had a muffler delete on it at first but I got a new exhaust system from my Catalytic converter back with a brand new muffler ($1200.00). Since then I have an electrical problem where if I leave anything on for just 2 seconds after I turn the car off, it needs to be jumped to start back running. I also think that I have a leak somewhere. I put 20 dollars of 93 in my caR regularly and it will run out in 2 days (I don’t drive the car too hard but I do drive nearly 100 miles a day.) The car has a VERY LOUD lifter tick. I put seafoam engine treatment in it on my first oil change and on my top offs every 1000 mileS (1quart). I was recently told that I had a manifold leak and I don’t even know how long it’s been that way. The car rubs a bit so now I think that the suspension, rotors are off. The wheels are stock. It has brembo brakes with high performance rotors (don’t know the brand of the rotors yet). I can’t even explain my fluids, but according to the pic it’s bad bad!!
I recently put coolant in. This is what it looks like a day later🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
Do I need to trash this car, and part it out, or does she still have a chance? I really need help and I’m really stressed out right now. Anyone, please help me
I recently put coolant in. This is what it looks like a day later🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
Do I need to trash this car, and part it out, or does she still have a chance? I really need help and I’m really stressed out right now. Anyone, please help me
#1398
So I bought my 04 G35 about 1month and a half ago. It had issues from the jump but they were manageable. It had a muffler delete on it at first but I got a new exhaust system from my Catalytic converter back with a brand new muffler ($1200.00). Since then I have an electrical problem where if I leave anything on for just 2 seconds after I turn the car off, it needs to be jumped to start back running. I also think that I have a leak somewhere. I put 20 dollars of 93 in my caR regularly and it will run out in 2 days (I don’t drive the car too hard but I do drive nearly 100 miles a day.) The car has a VERY LOUD lifter tick. I put seafoam engine treatment in it on my first oil change and on my top offs every 1000 mileS (1quart). I was recently told that I had a manifold leak and I don’t even know how long it’s been that way. The car rubs a bit so now I think that the suspension, rotors are off. The wheels are stock. It has brembo brakes with high performance rotors (don’t know the brand of the rotors yet). I can’t even explain my fluids, but according to the pic it’s bad bad!!
I recently put coolant in. This is what it looks like a day later🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
Do I need to trash this car, and part it out, or does she still have a chance? I really need help and I’m really stressed out right now. Anyone, please help me
I recently put coolant in. This is what it looks like a day later🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
Do I need to trash this car, and part it out, or does she still have a chance? I really need help and I’m really stressed out right now. Anyone, please help me
#1399
Been having bank 2 O2 sensor 1 code. Swapped O2 sensors over to see if code follows but it didn't, code came back same thing. Running ART pipes, Motordyne hfc Y-pipe, Tomei. Guessing its just my afe being out of wack and not actually a bad O2 sensor because when I read actual values the voltage does move around and the code didnt swap over to sensor 2. Trying to make sure things work before I go in during day of tuning. Can someone check over my guess in if I should change bank 2 O2 sensors?
#1400
Rubbing issues and want to learn more about camber
Hello I have used this site for many problems I’ve had over the years and now I want to ask directly about issues I have.
I am currently running 20x10 with 225s in the front and 20x11.5 with 245s in the rear. I have BC racing coil overs and I am very low I am going for a stance look on my car and I want front camber.
my upper control arm in the front rubs on my tire when I have it lowered. would getting adjustable upper control arms fix that and add camber? And In the rear I have adjustable lower control arms. I also still have my bucket from where my bucket spring sat should I replace that bucket and get an adjustable arm for that?Thanks
I am currently running 20x10 with 225s in the front and 20x11.5 with 245s in the rear. I have BC racing coil overs and I am very low I am going for a stance look on my car and I want front camber.
my upper control arm in the front rubs on my tire when I have it lowered. would getting adjustable upper control arms fix that and add camber? And In the rear I have adjustable lower control arms. I also still have my bucket from where my bucket spring sat should I replace that bucket and get an adjustable arm for that?Thanks
#1401
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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@baicep Which code exactly, I think there are 5 different codes for each O2 sensor. General failure, high voltage, low voltage, heater high voltage, heater low voltage.
Honestly though if the code came back after swapping sensors then it's probably either an intake or exhaust leak. Smoke test both. If the smoke test is good check wiring for any damage, ring out (ohm) the wires from point to point, if they ring out then megger them. Call around to various shops to see who has a megger or talk to your electrician friends to see if they can borrow one from work.
Honestly though if the code came back after swapping sensors then it's probably either an intake or exhaust leak. Smoke test both. If the smoke test is good check wiring for any damage, ring out (ohm) the wires from point to point, if they ring out then megger them. Call around to various shops to see who has a megger or talk to your electrician friends to see if they can borrow one from work.
#1402
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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@Dylan 07G35 Typically yes the aftermarket FUCA will prevent rubbing because the ball joint is forward/outboard from the hoop assembly. The OEM ball joint is INSIDE the hoop assembly, google search pictures to see what I'm talking about.
However it depends on WHERE you are rubbing on the OEM FUCA.
As for the rears, replacing the spring bucket means swapping to a "true coilover" setup so keep that in mind because it adds cost. It's basically the only option for more adjustability in the rear if you're already got SPC toe bolts (one set of bolts if you already have adjustable camber arms, two sets of bolts if you have stock non-adjustable camber arms).
However it depends on WHERE you are rubbing on the OEM FUCA.
As for the rears, replacing the spring bucket means swapping to a "true coilover" setup so keep that in mind because it adds cost. It's basically the only option for more adjustability in the rear if you're already got SPC toe bolts (one set of bolts if you already have adjustable camber arms, two sets of bolts if you have stock non-adjustable camber arms).
#1403
@cleric670 Pretty sure it was P2a03. Hmm it could be an exhaust leak from the header to ART pipes, I need to recheck the tightness of the bolts but I did use new gaskets when installing everything.
#1405
#1408
#1409
Join Date: May 2017
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Scorpi0 (10-14-2022)
#1410