G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

Changed thermostat and radiator still overheating 😩

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Rate Thread
 
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 07:22 PM
  #1  
Erik3825's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Changed thermostat and radiator still overheating 😩

Hello Gentlemen,

Well as the title states I've had my G for about a 2 weeks. It would spontaneously rapidly over heat at times and other days it would be fine. I could be at a stop light and the needle would shoot up and as soon as I would start driving it would settle down to normal. Today I changed the thermostat and the radiator, which was an all day thing, blugh, unfortunately it did not help! 😩 I should also state that I get no heat in the cabin, also when I turn on the heat I believe I see a small stream of coolant running down the inside housing of the left fan, on the passenger side. It overheats quicker when I turn on the heater as appose to the a/c. I've purged the radiator for bubbles, I'm now completely lost :/. If anyone could help in anyway or steps to take next I would greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
P.s I have an auto coupe with 92k on the clock
 
Reply
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #2  
ScraggleRock's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6,811
Likes: 738
You still have air in the system. Are you using the bleeder valve? Also did you get a new radiator cap?
 
Reply
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 07:43 PM
  #3  
Erik3825's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
You still have air in the system. Are you using the bleeder valve? Also did you get a new radiator cap?
I didn't get a new radiator cap, and I am using the bleeder valve. Should I get a new radiator cap? What really gets me is the small coolant stream I can barely make out going down on the electrical fan assembly. I don't see where that could be coming from. It happens only when I turn on the heater which is when it starts heating up. Thanks so much for the quick response btw!
 
Reply
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 07:56 PM
  #4  
ScraggleRock's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6,811
Likes: 738
I would get a new rad cap. Its just a rubber seal that can get misshapen over time. To find the leak, go to autozone and rent a pressure tester. Its free and simple to use. Test the radiator and the new cap (sometimes new ones can even be bad if they've been sitting on the shelf awhile). If they both hold pressure, then you still have air in the system. The G is unusually annoying to rid of air.

BTW, you had your heater on full blast when you fefilled it with coolant right?
 
Reply
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 08:13 PM
  #5  
Erik3825's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
You still have air in the system. Are you using the bleeder valve? Also did you get a new radiator cap?
I didn't get a new radiator cap, and I am using the bleeder valve. Should I get a new radiator cap? What really gets me is the small coolant stream I can barely make out going down on the electrical fan assembly. I don't see where that could be coming from. It happens only when I turn on the heater which is when it starts heating up. Thanks so much for the quick response btw!
 
Reply
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 08:17 PM
  #6  
Erik3825's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
I would get a new rad cap. Its just a rubber seal that can get misshapen over time. To find the leak, go to autozone and rent a pressure tester. Its free and simple to use. Test the radiator and the new cap (sometimes new ones can even be bad if they've been sitting on the shelf awhile). If they both hold pressure, then you still have air in the system. The G is unusually annoying to rid of air.

BTW, you had your heater on full blast when you fefilled it with coolant right?
Thanks, I'll definitely go and rent the pressure tester. And unfortunately that would be a no, I had the car running during the refill but not the heater on :/
 
Reply
Old Dec 28, 2014 | 09:29 PM
  #7  
partyman66's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 228
From: Southeastern Mass.
Your heater core might be plugged up or possibly a water pump failing. The extra pressure from having to push coolant through the heater core could be causing the pymp to leak and stop circulating.
 
Reply
Old Dec 29, 2014 | 06:17 PM
  #8  
wuzz-upp's Avatar
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 298
Likes: 36
From: Florida
Are your radiator fans kicking on when the vehicle reaches normal operating temperature? This should happen automatically through your coolant temp sensing circuit. The radiator fan circuit is closed (Fans On), when the coolant temp sensor reaches operating temperature or when the air conditioning is turned on. Do a quick check of your fans, turn the A/C on and check that both fans run simultaneously at approximately the same fast speed.
 
Reply
Old Dec 30, 2014 | 11:20 PM
  #9  
Erik3825's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Update.

First I'd like to thank all you guys for the help in trying to resolve this problem, you guys are awesome indeed and as a new owner of a G can't wait to to get to enjoy it as soon as I get this fixed!

So far I've burped the system as much as I could, I flushed the heater core with a water hose for a while but I didn't see any debris or any type of gunk come out. I though it was fixed because unlike before I was now getting at least warm air in the cabin and once reved for a bit hot air followed. Drove it around about an hour and a half on the highway and the city, with and with out the heater at full blast and all seemed ok, no overheating, but still no full heat at idle just warm air. A few hours later went to the store and it came back, not heat at idle not even warm, and over heating. The fans both run when engine is warm and I hear them speed up when it starts heating up. They both seem to be running about the same speed. Should I go with the water pump? Is there a way of checking it? I feel like I'm just throwing money at it right now :/

Thanks again guys! Hope everyone has a great New Years 👍
Stay safe!
 
Reply
Old Dec 30, 2014 | 11:36 PM
  #10  
ScraggleRock's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6,811
Likes: 738
You still have air in the system. Haha I know it sounds unlikely considering how many times your burped it, but those are classic symptoms. Here's what I want you to do:

Take off the radiator cap and bleeder valve cap. Heat car to full operating temp, then turn car off. Then grab and squeeze the lower rad hose a bunch of times. It works like a siphon, and pumps air in the bottom up to do he top, then obviously displacing it with the liquid. Keep refilling the radiator as the level goes down from squeezing the hose. Once the level stops going down you should be good.
 
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2014 | 12:39 AM
  #11  
digital sol's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 478
Likes: 28
Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
You still have air in the system. Haha I know it sounds unlikely considering how many times your burped it, but those are classic symptoms. Here's what I want you to do:

Take off the radiator cap and bleeder valve cap. Heat car to full operating temp, then turn car off. Then grab and squeeze the lower rad hose a bunch of times. It works like a siphon, and pumps air in the bottom up to do he top, then obviously displacing it with the liquid. Keep refilling the radiator as the level goes down from squeezing the hose. Once the level stops going down you should be good.
I am going to try this. I have bled my system for the same symptoms minus the overheating part like 3 times. I even put it on jack stands and got the front end as high as I could during the process. I still get 0 hot air at idle unless i rev it to 1.5k+.
 
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2014 | 02:00 AM
  #12  
ScraggleRock's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6,811
Likes: 738
Originally Posted by digital sol
I am going to try this. I have bled my system for the same symptoms minus the overheating part like 3 times. I even put it on jack stands and got the front end as high as I could during the process. I still get 0 hot air at idle unless i rev it to 1.5k+.
I promise that (unless you have a blown head gasket) this will work. I've had to bleed my system (unwantingly) way too many times.
 
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2014 | 03:08 PM
  #13  
digital sol's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 478
Likes: 28
Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
I promise that (unless you have a blown head gasket) this will work. I've had to bleed my system (unwantingly) way too many times.
Yea, its definitely not a blown HG. Car runs great, no overheating and it does give me heat under higher rpm's. Ive tried bleeding it several ways as everybody has their own method that's worked for them but none for me thus far. It cant hurt to give that method a shot. Thanks for the input. - J5
 
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2014 | 09:25 PM
  #14  
J0hnblaze's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 334
Likes: 6
From: Los angeles
Yea...its definitely air in the system...u need to really burp the system properly...had the same thing happened to me...went to some dudes that tried burping it again and it worked...no more overheating
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tiguy99
G35 Cars
15
Mar 1, 2016 11:42 AM
NohoG35revup
New Members Check In
5
Aug 22, 2015 12:13 PM
Felipe Gonzalez
G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07
2
Aug 16, 2015 10:02 AM
yassy
G35 Sedan V35 2003-06
2
Aug 3, 2015 12:24 AM
joedaddy1
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
0
Jul 28, 2015 02:58 PM



You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:27 AM.