hey guys, update for you. thanks to all of your encouragment i'm happy to anounce i got it off finally.

As you can see there definitely was some damage done to the bolt. however, i think it'll hold up fine. i re-threaded it and i think i'll be alright.

I used the angle grinder, then chiseled a bit and broke a screw driver and 2 chisels trying to pry it open once i got an opening, as you can kind of see from the picture. i then sprayed wd40 into the it and shot it up and around the openings and then used vice grips and tryed to grip the metal that was twisted off and rotated it downwards.

I'm now forever using Copper Anti-Sieze on ANY parts install like this that have any chance of seizing in there. I suggest to you all to do the same, lather that **** in there.

 

You did pretty well. Mine sustained a lot more damage aha

 

so this happened on my steering knuckle when i over-torqued the bolt on the outer tie-rod.

300'000 miles on the car, what you guys think? replace for 120$ or let it ride till she drops? i think personally this cracked knuckle will outlast the car.

 

I've got the same problem as the OP. Yes, I know it's an old thread, but any idea why I'm not seeing any of the pictures that are referred to in the posts? Thanks!

 

No pics because they were posted as links to photo sites that are no longer valid. It is always best to upload your pics to the forum using the image tools. That way they are available for viewing as long as the forum is still running.

 

Since I've revived this old thread, I'll go ahead and share what I did to get the compression rod and its bushing off the subframe stud. This worked very well for me without any cutting or heat/open flames.
1) I borrowed a very large gear puller tool from O'Reilly (think the number was 6002 or 6022) and used it to very easily pull the compression rod off the rubber bushing. It helps to have someone assist with setting the three legs in place on the rod housing.
2) From underneath the car, I used a fairly small (8-inch?) pipe wrench to grab the bottom end of the metal bushing where the rubber is thin. I tightened the wrench jaws down on it as tight as I could and pointed the pipe wrench handle toward the wheel well. My beautiful assistant (wife) was there with a 3-foot long cheater pipe and put it over the handle and pulled slowly until the bushing spun on the stud. I made sure the pipe wrench jaws didn't slide off the end and watched to be sure the stud didn't start to turn/twist. IMO, the bushing should break loose from the stud well before breaking the stud or its weld to the subframe. To me, if the weld breaks before the rust does, that was never a good weld to begin with.
3) Once I knew the bushing spun on the stud, I took the pipe wrench off and then used adjustable pliers (aka, channel locks) to twist and pull the bushing off.
Note: I did spray penetrating fluid the night before but after getting the bushing off, I saw no evidence that the fluid found its way between the stud and bushing.

 

I found that the nut on the subframe stud was at the end of the stud and seized on (maybe cross threaded), I removed the nut and the threads at the end of the stud are toast but 75% of the threads above are good. I was going to run a die down it and reinstall new nut but I am having issues finding out what size die to use and nut? I think it is M14 x 1.50?
When i took the old nut into the store to find what size it is, it seems to be larger than M12 x 1.50?