The G35 community seems so cheap because people keep arguing about everything? lolol

 

It is pretty sad when someone can't take being wrong and just won't let it go.
To the point that they spend time following someone else around the forum for the sole purpose of trolling or trying to fight.

 

Oh, yeah, physics is null and void on a V6. "It's cuz they used it on a V8". Quit being a whiny b!tch. Did you even read that article? Here's a small snippet:

"*With full clutch engagement, a low moment of inertia clutch/flywheel assembly produces more driving wheel horsepower.
*Assuming the same shift rpm during the shift phase, a high moment of inertia clutch/flywheel can return more stored energy than the low moment of inertia setup can.
*If more rpm is used with the low moment of inertia clutch/flywheel, the difference in stored energy can be totally compensated for."

Now shutup. All you keep doing is making condescending statements and then retracting them and trying to minimize your total idiocy.

"I research everything I buy..haha except shitty eBay parts, I ran out of time to buy those" ran out of time? Wtf is that (I'm sure you'll have an excuse)?

Then it's "lightweight drive train components don't make ANY rwhp..well only maybe the flywheel does a little bit, but not enough to make me shutup"

Oh, here's a good one "I research everything I buy, except for the fact that I installed headers even tho they've been proven over and over to rob Hp/TQ in these cars in NA form...oh wait I didn't research that part."

"Fuel gauges are 'necessary' even tho people drive without them all the time. How could you possibly know when something went wrong if you didn't have a fuel gauge??" Motorcycles do it every day..

So, anyway, Have fun with your 250hp automatic "racecar", braajjjj. Race me sometime.

 

From the snippit you took (which of course shows you not reading the article) it explains how you have to rev the engine higher to achieve the same amount of inertia. Causing you to have less inertia per shift and less power off the line. But this type of inertia depends on the power that your engine makes in the higher RPM because not all engines are created equally. Additionally per shifts this would mean that to maintain the same inertia you would have to power-shift the car to achieve factory inertia levels. Which as anyone who drives a manual SHOULD KNOW, is that it kills the cluch and the flywheel at a very accelerated rate.

Tardman, my Infiniti is my daily.
Headers haven't been proven to rob horsepower.
A few retards on this forum (people like you) have installed them with power losses due to buying shitty headers, or expecting unrealistic gains. My headers have gained me 15-20WHP in the midrange and I pull volumes on a "stock" infiniti with exhaust and HFC's and spacers.

There are plenty of motorcycles with fuel gauges, come to think of it I haven't seen one without a gauge. Even my buddies scooter he bought to take back and forth to school to avoid driving his AE86 had a damn fuel gauge and it only held 1.2 Gallons.

I already said how I ran out of time guy, I was going on a trip and dropping the car with a friend while I would be out of town. It was the only time to have the car worked on since at the time I was working about 60hr/week at my old job.

Lightweight drivetrain doesn't make more power, it doesn't make more power, its proven to not make more power, it has been researched and doesn't make more power. Lightweight drivetrain doesn't make more power.
They made additional GEAR TORQUE in 1st/2nd gear and if you actually read the article I linked, you would understand that its completely based around your setup and HOW FAST your RPM's rise as the slower the RPM's rise the less the "gain" you see. And this "gain" only comes from the horsepower required to "spin" your drivetrain and its based on being AWAY from the center of gravity.
Clearly you didn't read the article just like you don't even read my posts and keep posting the same crap over and over again.
Maybe you should check where lightweight driveshaft, pulley's, etc all store about 0.1-0.6HP on a typical vehicle so even halving their weight wouldn't even "add" 1HP.
As has been said over and over and over and over and over and over and over now, the flywheel is the only "drivetrain weight" upgrade that affects GEAR TORQUE in lower gears.
It typically doesn't dyno more power, but its COMPLETELY DEPENDENT on the setup.
The article you linked is with guys trying to simulate street GEAR TORQUE with a DynoJet to see where the "gains" come in with a flywheel which they cut down 2/3 of the weight on to "gain" 6% power in the best case scenario.
But as my article explains its based on the SIZE (yes size) of the flywheel, weight overall (especially near the edges) and how much inertia you want for launching. Meaning that a lightweight flywheel might make you slower in the 1/4th or in any straight line as you need inertia to not bog on the launch.
I have actual track experience with this with a friends car who went back up to a 19lb flywheel after he went from 27LB->8LB and couldn't get off the line with his rx-7.

With literally every one of your posts you just keep digging yourself deeper into your hole of retardation. Because right now all you are showing to me is that you are the internet cancer, the toxicity of forums, the people who spread misinformation and have Ego's so big they think they know it all even if they know nothing, and as such refuse to learn from others.
Grow the **** up and understand when you are wrong and try to learn something.

 

nah man...if you go to enough import meets youll realize sh*tty mods and cheap people range from A to Z car makes and models

 

Damn u 2 wasting lots of energy typing all that **** out lmao

 

I'm just here for the schoolyard fights

 

Please enlighten us on just exactly what you have spent $40-50K on. I think ttrank was in that range and we all know what a beast his car is.

 

I'd be interested to know too. That is quite alot to spend unless you are fully building for 1000WHP

 

This is true. I think we've both seen BMWs and Evos just...ruined. It hurts.

As for the cheap-outs, go by the current market price. In my experience, for cars that are less than around $25k current market price, the majority will cheap out. Also, they seem to be less experimental with their builds and will only go with recirculated knowledge, ie. "What is best intake????" theads and "imma turbo my FWD ____ what do i need???" threads that never go anywhere.

Then theres those collector types like the s13s, s14s, Supras, etc that range from garbage to classy.

 

Well I think it happens this way too because it depends on how much money the owners have in the first place.
Think about how many people buy cars on payments they can barely make.
This speaks volumes of the number of mods and the type of mods they will do.

 

Right? I've had someone ask me "what do I need to do for my Civic to beat a Civic SI?" She was barely making payments and was sharing the car to daily drive between four people. There was a supercharger kit for $2-3k (super cheap for a ready to go F/I kit) that was also CARB legal. As expected, never heard back.

 

Yep,
I see this and hear this all the time on the local pages on FB or at the meets. Often the same people asking to go fast on the cheap are asking for ways to roll back miles(on a different page) on a lease because they are about to go over.
My neighbor had a G35 before me, and he installed an eBay intake and engine cover and "performance chip" and he used to come ask me about how to get a "Maserati exhaust" while I was working on my turbo civic drag car...
He used to come tell me about how is 21" Vossens were like 5k but then when he sold his G he came and offered them to me for 1k (which I turned down).

So overall I don't think that any specific brand buyers are "cheap" per-say. It all depends on the person and how they are doing financially and the type of person they are.

Hell I've seen self proclaimed "rich guys" come blow up an E63 AMG on spray at a local meet.
And I've seen guys with cobalts or civics with 20k worth of mods making 900whp.

 

I agree with

So overall I don't think that any specific brand buyers are "cheap" per-say. It all depends on the person and how they are doing financially and the type of person they are.

I started off with two station wagons (Volvo then a VW) and was interested in 350z's but knew it would be a while till I had worked up to that. Then one afternoon the occasion arose and I traded my 2003 VW Passat for a 2004 G35 coupe.......with money my way.

There's definitely a bunch of people on the forum that come for a few posts with the mentality of Fast + Cheap - Quality but I tend to do Cheap + Quality even if it means waiting out to get a deal. Saving most of my money for tuition means I'm not one to splash out 3-4k on a new wheel setup or 2k on a real HKS exhaust like most who paid like 15k and up for their G35 would have. The general trend is if you can afford a 40k car, 4k on wheels is like a drop in the ocean. With a little waiting I picked up 3 piece IForged wheels for less than a set of tires, test pipes and an HKS rep exhaust (from a Z) for less than the price of gaskets + extensions and a sound system put together over a couple months. Everything used. But all this was carried out after about $1000 worth of engine and other maintenance parts. Work carried out by myself makes it more affordable.

Also some people see a G35 as great value when you compare it to spending 20K+ on a New Civic that will depreciate and never give the same driving experience. That is IF you don't mind and have the time to spend on repairs any and all older cars like the G35 will have.


Personally I'm on the look out to lower my G but as with everything, it'll be done in its own time

 

Nice G man, I am with you there. I often will wait for a deal on something just because I don't like spashing out money I don't have to.
I also am a DIYer so often things can be "made" for far less than they can be bought off the shelf (for example a "turbo kit" costs around 3-4k for a cheap one, where as you can often "make" one for 2k or less with often better quality parts and a larger turbo). Hell you can even make a $600 "turbo kit" by buying a used smaller turbo on ebay and then just getting other parts (not saying for a G35 in particular).

The headers I have on my G35 I got off this forum for $175, the HFC's I bought on sale from Kinetix during the black friday sale. My spacer I got on a christmas sale and + cashback on my card.
Same with my headlights (year end sale) and brakes (tax season sale).

I don't like paying full price for things, but that doesn't mean I have to buy shoddy parts.