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Since the start of the winter (yes I use it in the snow) some electrical problems appeared. The headlights and taillights won’t turn off unless I put my key on the "on" position or if I unplug the battery the radio unit lights are on too.. I don’t know if the fuse box went bad but when I wiggle it the lights are turning on and off. I cleaned the fuse box but it did not solve the problem. I saw other threads about it but there was no solutions. I’m french btw so sorry for the bad grammar
So turning the headlamp switch to parking lights only, or to OFF does not turn off the headlights, does this issue only happen when the switch is in AUTO mode?
Do other functions of the headlight switch work while the vehicle is turned on?
Have you had any hard starts or have you needed to jump start the vehicle lately?
If you have had battery problems I would replace it first, strange electrical issues can happen with a battery that is dying, if the battery is ok then I would first check the IPDM which is the large fuse block behind the battery. There is a waterproof cover over the IPDM that is difficult to completely seal and moisture can contaminate it and cause electrical problems.
I had to recharge the battery but it was because of the lights problem so the problem was there before that. The battery is new from this summer. I don’t think I have that waterproof seal that you talked about I just have the fuse box wich had a lot of green liquid coming out of it
The light switch works normally when the car is on and the auto switch is not the issue since I always put my lights at the off position by habits.
Uhh ohh, take a picture of the fuse box, preferrably with the "green liquid" and post it. I have a feeling the insides have become contaminated with moisture and have corroded to the point that the copper is practically melted away (copper turns green when it "rusts").
I’ll send a picture tomorrow, but to give you an update I just went in my car plugged the battery and the AT check light came on. Transmission gave a big hit when i put it in reverse. Turned it off and took my father’s g35x...
Owch, might be low on fluid is all but I would thoroughly investigate. If it's low and you rev it up to go there will be a delay as it builds hydraulic pressure then it can sort of slam the planetary gear into engagement position at an rpm higher than idle, if your rear differential bushing is also worn it will definitely feel harsh.
Well... after re-reading it that previous post isn't exactly accurate at all so.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that the AT will release/engage the brake bands/clutch at a higher than expected rpm, the planetary gears technically don't "move" (other than it's rotation) but rather the engagement clutches and brakes will be doing their thing but with more-than-anticipated torque on the input shaft.
Words are hard, so are automatic transmissions Electronically controlled AT systems only make this worse since the engagement pistons and brakes are electronically controlled solednoids rather than being a purely hydromechanical system like the old AT's were. I don't know what kind of thresholds there are in the G's AT but there are typically low and high pressure limit switches to prevent the TCM from grenading the internals but I'm sure it's quite a bit of leeway either direction and if you're at the high end it will be a pretty brutal engagement even with a wet clutch.
Add differential movement due to a worn bushing and you will feel it through the entire vehicle, I would have your lube tech look for cracks in the rear diff bushing on the next oil change.
But can the transmission problem come from the fuse box too ? Or is it a new problem I’ll semd you pictures tomorrow i’ll try to replug the battery too and see if the problem is gone sometimes the problems are temporary :/
It's definitely possible since there is a computer that controls the transmission but It's really hard to say. Start with the big obvious problem and work from there.
So I just took some pictures and it all seems clean from the exterior since I got it cleaned yesterday. You can still see a little bit of strange coloration but it was 5x worse yesterday. Like I said, I do not have the cover to protect it from most of the water.
Just to show how vulnerable it is to water. Ignore the crap battery it's not the problem.
Do you know the part number for the IPDM because it seems like there is more than one possible...
Lights won’t turn off
Electronically controlled AT systems only make this worse since the engagement pistons and brakes are electronically controlled solednoids rather than being a purely hydromechanical system like the old AT's were. I don't know what kind of thresholds there are in the G's AT but there are typically low and high pressure limit switches to prevent the TCM from grenading the internals but I'm sure it's quite a bit of leeway either direction and if you're at the high end it will be a pretty brutal engagement even with a wet clutch.
I’ll semd you pictures tomorrow i’ll try to replug the battery too and see if the problem is gone sometimes the problems are temporary :/
