Clear bra
#1
#2
I had the clearbra installed on my car a week after I got it. I am really glad I have it and it gives me a peice of mind when driving on the freeway when you hear rocks bouncing off the front end of my car. As far as being less reflective, I can't really tell a difference on my Diamond Graphite. I wash and wax it and it looks great. I would definitely recommend it.
#4
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#8
I have a 2004.5 LR Coupe and I have the c-bra. I LOVE IT! A fantastic installer did the work and the bra is virtually invisible. After about 11 months of ownership I got into a car accident (actually a deer ran into me) and I had to have the front bumper, hood, grill, and both fenders replaced. After I had the new paint job I waited for 15 days for the paint to cure/outgas (drove a rental car and paid out of pocket in the meantime) just so that I could have the clear bra reapplied without any stone chips to the paint.
FYI, I had the first c-bra put on after one week of ownership. I had 4 large stone chips in 3 days! If you think you won't like the way a c-bra "looks" or "reflects light", how much are you going to like seeing 2-4 new paint chips every week or so when you wash your G?
BTW, if you Zaino your c-bra it is just as shiny as the paint.
FYI, I had the first c-bra put on after one week of ownership. I had 4 large stone chips in 3 days! If you think you won't like the way a c-bra "looks" or "reflects light", how much are you going to like seeing 2-4 new paint chips every week or so when you wash your G?
BTW, if you Zaino your c-bra it is just as shiny as the paint.
#10
Originally Posted by neffster
I have a 2004.5 LR Coupe and I have the c-bra. I LOVE IT! A fantastic installer did the work and the bra is virtually invisible. After about 11 months of ownership I got into a car accident (actually a deer ran into me) and I had to have the front bumper, hood, grill, and both fenders replaced. After I had the new paint job I waited for 15 days for the paint to cure/outgas (drove a rental car and paid out of pocket in the meantime) just so that I could have the clear bra reapplied without any stone chips to the paint.
FYI, I had the first c-bra put on after one week of ownership. I had 4 large stone chips in 3 days! If you think you won't like the way a c-bra "looks" or "reflects light", how much are you going to like seeing 2-4 new paint chips every week or so when you wash your G?
BTW, if you Zaino your c-bra it is just as shiny as the paint.
FYI, I had the first c-bra put on after one week of ownership. I had 4 large stone chips in 3 days! If you think you won't like the way a c-bra "looks" or "reflects light", how much are you going to like seeing 2-4 new paint chips every week or so when you wash your G?
BTW, if you Zaino your c-bra it is just as shiny as the paint.
I've had the car for only 4 months -- I wish I had totally gotten the bra installed immediately after I purchased it.
#11
I had it installed properly. What I didnt like about it is the fact that the edges get black with dirt after awile. When it does get a hit with the stone, it looks like **** because now the plastic is messed up. Overall its not worth the money paid for it, and it really doesnt protect all that well. You would be better off with a full bra on the car from colgan custom or the dealer. Just my .02
#12
3M vs. Clearbra
imperial521,
I am not trying to hijack your thread. I just didn't see a reason to start a new one when my question was realted to yours.
To all with Clearbra/X-pel and 3M experience/knowledge,
Which product is better? Or is there no difference? After doing some mild research, I found that the Clearbra material is thicker (offered up to 12mil) than the 3M product (8mil is the highest I could locate). Intuitively, we would assume that the thicker material would offer the better protection. However, is this so? Or is the 8mil 3M material sufficient?
I just wondered since I have a hell of a deal on an install with 8mil 3M product. My installer is not only incredible (I've seen his work-various exotics) but a friend and he's hooking me up with a buddy price (at least I think so).
He's doing the following for $400-
Door cups, Window sills, Hood, Fender, Mirrors, Bumper, Lower bumper, Rocker panels, Head lights, Door edges, and Outer wheel wells.
Would appreciate any input/insight.
Thanks!
I am not trying to hijack your thread. I just didn't see a reason to start a new one when my question was realted to yours.
To all with Clearbra/X-pel and 3M experience/knowledge,
Which product is better? Or is there no difference? After doing some mild research, I found that the Clearbra material is thicker (offered up to 12mil) than the 3M product (8mil is the highest I could locate). Intuitively, we would assume that the thicker material would offer the better protection. However, is this so? Or is the 8mil 3M material sufficient?
I just wondered since I have a hell of a deal on an install with 8mil 3M product. My installer is not only incredible (I've seen his work-various exotics) but a friend and he's hooking me up with a buddy price (at least I think so).
He's doing the following for $400-
Door cups, Window sills, Hood, Fender, Mirrors, Bumper, Lower bumper, Rocker panels, Head lights, Door edges, and Outer wheel wells.
Would appreciate any input/insight.
Thanks!
#13
To all with Clearbra/X-pel and 3M experience/knowledge,
Which product is better? Or is there no difference? After doing some mild research, I found that the Clearbra material is thicker (offered up to 12mil) than the 3M product (8mil is the highest I could locate).
- "Clearbra" is just another general term for paint protection film
- Xpel is a software designer for vehicles
- 3M is a specific paint protection film manufacturer
Intuitively, we would assume that the thicker material would offer the better protection. However, is this so? Or is the 8mil 3M material sufficient?
-8mils is sufficient.........the film will get banged up over the years of highway abuse, but you will get to retain the factory paint in it's original finish.
-Repainting is an option for many as paying up front for a clear bra is not readily "worth" it. However, one thing many people do not realize is that immediately after you repaint an area, it still takes about 30 days for it to fully cure. This means that the paint is still soft and is subject to immediate chipping. If anyone would like to test this, just take a new coat of paint and in an inconspicuous area, apply pressure with your finger nail and it will leave an imprint........this is how soft the paint is before curing.
-when it comes to dirt collecting on the seam, it could be removed by using a wet qtip and running it along the edges. The dirty edges are temporary, but rock chips are permanent. But then again, this is something that is not for everyone.
He's doing the following for $400-
Door cups, Window sills, Hood, Fender, Mirrors, Bumper, Lower bumper, Rocker panels, Head lights, Door edges, and Outer wheel wells.
- that is a good price............but our coupes do not have a "lower bumper"
Which product is better? Or is there no difference? After doing some mild research, I found that the Clearbra material is thicker (offered up to 12mil) than the 3M product (8mil is the highest I could locate).
- "Clearbra" is just another general term for paint protection film
- Xpel is a software designer for vehicles
- 3M is a specific paint protection film manufacturer
Intuitively, we would assume that the thicker material would offer the better protection. However, is this so? Or is the 8mil 3M material sufficient?
-8mils is sufficient.........the film will get banged up over the years of highway abuse, but you will get to retain the factory paint in it's original finish.
-Repainting is an option for many as paying up front for a clear bra is not readily "worth" it. However, one thing many people do not realize is that immediately after you repaint an area, it still takes about 30 days for it to fully cure. This means that the paint is still soft and is subject to immediate chipping. If anyone would like to test this, just take a new coat of paint and in an inconspicuous area, apply pressure with your finger nail and it will leave an imprint........this is how soft the paint is before curing.
-when it comes to dirt collecting on the seam, it could be removed by using a wet qtip and running it along the edges. The dirty edges are temporary, but rock chips are permanent. But then again, this is something that is not for everyone.
He's doing the following for $400-
Door cups, Window sills, Hood, Fender, Mirrors, Bumper, Lower bumper, Rocker panels, Head lights, Door edges, and Outer wheel wells.
- that is a good price............but our coupes do not have a "lower bumper"
#15
imperial521 - We're actually going to be in San Diego, LA, OC between march 17-22 for the Ferrarichat and Lamborghinitalk.com guys. If you'd like to join them, shoot me an email - sam@premiermobilegroup.com