Fix, Sell, or Part Out? (needs clutch)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 165
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, CA
Fix, Sell, or Part Out? (needs clutch)
My 2005 G35 Coupe 6MT needs a new clutch and I'm considering moving on from it and getting a newer car. My question is whether I should sell it as-is, if it would be worth spending the money on having the clutch done (by a non-dealer shop), or if it's worth more as a part-out. I'm not inclined to ship tons of parts around, so I'd probably only consider a part-out if I could sell a few select things and get the rest picked up by a pick-n-pull shop. I'm willing to replace the clutch if it would make sense for resale value, but I'm not sure if it actually would.
I'm looking for feedback, so please don't turn this into a "I'll take X if you part out" bidding thread.
Here's the info on it for reference:
2005 Coupe 6MT, Lakeshore Slate
142K miles
Clean title, never crashed, registration is current
Located in San Diego area of California
Clutch is almost shot, engine runs well but has typical oil consumption issue and minor valve cover gasket leaking. Passes CA smog, no check engine lights.
Stock 19" wheels, almost new Hankooks
Minor upgrades: hotchkis sways, tokico blue front shocks, fujita intake, poly bushings.
Paint on spoiler is peeling and some small spots on bumper. Paint is pretty good otherwise. Only minor dings and scratches.
Front seats have some holes and tears, back seats are in good shape. Dash has some hairline cracks. Stock Bose stereo plus USA-Spec ipod/aux adapter.
KBB private party prices say about $5100 for Good condition, $4400 for Fair
The clutch is at a state where it's still driveable, but slips if you hit the gas moderately hard or do a bad shift. Someone could get through a test drive enough to know that everything else is fine other than the clutch. I'm still driving it around going really easy on it, but wouldn't trust a friend to take it for a day.
I'm looking for feedback, so please don't turn this into a "I'll take X if you part out" bidding thread.
Here's the info on it for reference:
2005 Coupe 6MT, Lakeshore Slate
142K miles
Clean title, never crashed, registration is current
Located in San Diego area of California
Clutch is almost shot, engine runs well but has typical oil consumption issue and minor valve cover gasket leaking. Passes CA smog, no check engine lights.
Stock 19" wheels, almost new Hankooks
Minor upgrades: hotchkis sways, tokico blue front shocks, fujita intake, poly bushings.
Paint on spoiler is peeling and some small spots on bumper. Paint is pretty good otherwise. Only minor dings and scratches.
Front seats have some holes and tears, back seats are in good shape. Dash has some hairline cracks. Stock Bose stereo plus USA-Spec ipod/aux adapter.
KBB private party prices say about $5100 for Good condition, $4400 for Fair
The clutch is at a state where it's still driveable, but slips if you hit the gas moderately hard or do a bad shift. Someone could get through a test drive enough to know that everything else is fine other than the clutch. I'm still driving it around going really easy on it, but wouldn't trust a friend to take it for a day.
Keep in mind that sites like KBB only show the aggregate data, it is literally just an average of all those exact vehicles that have sold in the past year or so. If you have a bunch of beat up POS G's selling for $2k and only a couple of nice ones selling for 10k it's going to skew the average price that you see down considerably which is why I almost NEVER use sites like that and explain to folks who try to haggle prices based on bad math exactly what that data is saying. It never accounts for the actual condition of the vehicles because that is not reported during sales, they have an average price that is then increased or decreased a flat % based on "condition" but does not accurately reflect the actual selling price. KBB doesn't show you the ACTUAL data (number of units sold and for individual prices), you cannot search for ACTUAL sales, they only display the average.
It's a lot better when dealing with vehicles that are less than 5 years old but for a 13 year old vehicle it's practically worthless. In my area you could sell that vehicle for probably $8500 if the clutch was fixed, with a bad clutch you'ld be lucky to get $4k out of it so here it would be worth the cost and time to fix the clutch.
Call around and find a shop that will replace a CLUTCH ONLY (including T/O bearing since it takes like 10 seconds to remove), reuse the existing flywheel regardless of condition, don't even touch the flywheel, replace JUST the clutch. It will last probably 50k miles and folks will be able to properly test drive the vehicle, a clutch-only replacement will probably cost you $600-$800 and you will be able to sell a fully functional vehicle. I would probably start the price at $7000 since it appears the G's are slightly devalued where you live but make sure it is fully detailed in and out, buy the matching color paint pen from Nissan and "fix" the worst spots drop the price down to $6k when people try to haggle with you, drop in increments of $500 during the bargaining session so if they do convince you to drop the price twice (likely once due to mechanical repairs and a second drop due to cosmetic repairs) then the seller will feel like they are getting a "better deal" even though you are expecting to only get $6k out of the car in the first place.
I think $6k is a fair price considering it needs valve covers and a repainted spoiler, 6MT premium G's still have a lot of value but be prepared to explain to them the nature of the Rev-Up motor and how they drink oil regardless of mileage, don't try to hide anything from the seller just be straight with them about all the nuances of that vehicle. Nothing makes someone walk away quicker then when they feel like their being lied to, if you are honest with them they'll be much more likely to buy because they know EXACTLY what they're getting.
It's a lot better when dealing with vehicles that are less than 5 years old but for a 13 year old vehicle it's practically worthless. In my area you could sell that vehicle for probably $8500 if the clutch was fixed, with a bad clutch you'ld be lucky to get $4k out of it so here it would be worth the cost and time to fix the clutch.
Call around and find a shop that will replace a CLUTCH ONLY (including T/O bearing since it takes like 10 seconds to remove), reuse the existing flywheel regardless of condition, don't even touch the flywheel, replace JUST the clutch. It will last probably 50k miles and folks will be able to properly test drive the vehicle, a clutch-only replacement will probably cost you $600-$800 and you will be able to sell a fully functional vehicle. I would probably start the price at $7000 since it appears the G's are slightly devalued where you live but make sure it is fully detailed in and out, buy the matching color paint pen from Nissan and "fix" the worst spots drop the price down to $6k when people try to haggle with you, drop in increments of $500 during the bargaining session so if they do convince you to drop the price twice (likely once due to mechanical repairs and a second drop due to cosmetic repairs) then the seller will feel like they are getting a "better deal" even though you are expecting to only get $6k out of the car in the first place.
I think $6k is a fair price considering it needs valve covers and a repainted spoiler, 6MT premium G's still have a lot of value but be prepared to explain to them the nature of the Rev-Up motor and how they drink oil regardless of mileage, don't try to hide anything from the seller just be straight with them about all the nuances of that vehicle. Nothing makes someone walk away quicker then when they feel like their being lied to, if you are honest with them they'll be much more likely to buy because they know EXACTLY what they're getting.
Sounds like my situation except i want to keep my car. About 185k miles on it and no plans to get rid of it. Burnt out my clutch couple weeks ago, got a no name brand stage 1 clutch and flywheel combo off concept z performance for about 450 bucks and then had a local shop install it for about 700. No complaints. You could probly get a cheap clutch off ebay for 200 bucks.
Keep in mind that sites like KBB only show the aggregate data, it is literally just an average of all those exact vehicles that have sold in the past year or so. If you have a bunch of beat up POS G's selling for $2k and only a couple of nice ones selling for 10k it's going to skew the average price that you see down considerably which is why I almost NEVER use sites like that and explain to folks who try to haggle prices based on bad math exactly what that data is saying. It never accounts for the actual condition of the vehicles because that is not reported during sales, they have an average price that is then increased or decreased a flat % based on "condition" but does not accurately reflect the actual selling price. KBB doesn't show you the ACTUAL data (number of units sold and for individual prices), you cannot search for ACTUAL sales, they only display the average.
It's a lot better when dealing with vehicles that are less than 5 years old but for a 13 year old vehicle it's practically worthless. In my area you could sell that vehicle for probably $8500 if the clutch was fixed, with a bad clutch you'ld be lucky to get $4k out of it so here it would be worth the cost and time to fix the clutch.
Call around and find a shop that will replace a CLUTCH ONLY (including T/O bearing since it takes like 10 seconds to remove), reuse the existing flywheel regardless of condition, don't even touch the flywheel, replace JUST the clutch. It will last probably 50k miles and folks will be able to properly test drive the vehicle, a clutch-only replacement will probably cost you $600-$800 and you will be able to sell a fully functional vehicle. I would probably start the price at $7000 since it appears the G's are slightly devalued where you live but make sure it is fully detailed in and out, buy the matching color paint pen from Nissan and "fix" the worst spots drop the price down to $6k when people try to haggle with you, drop in increments of $500 during the bargaining session so if they do convince you to drop the price twice (likely once due to mechanical repairs and a second drop due to cosmetic repairs) then the seller will feel like they are getting a "better deal" even though you are expecting to only get $6k out of the car in the first place.
I think $6k is a fair price considering it needs valve covers and a repainted spoiler, 6MT premium G's still have a lot of value but be prepared to explain to them the nature of the Rev-Up motor and how they drink oil regardless of mileage, don't try to hide anything from the seller just be straight with them about all the nuances of that vehicle. Nothing makes someone walk away quicker then when they feel like their being lied to, if you are honest with them they'll be much more likely to buy because they know EXACTLY what they're getting.
It's a lot better when dealing with vehicles that are less than 5 years old but for a 13 year old vehicle it's practically worthless. In my area you could sell that vehicle for probably $8500 if the clutch was fixed, with a bad clutch you'ld be lucky to get $4k out of it so here it would be worth the cost and time to fix the clutch.
Call around and find a shop that will replace a CLUTCH ONLY (including T/O bearing since it takes like 10 seconds to remove), reuse the existing flywheel regardless of condition, don't even touch the flywheel, replace JUST the clutch. It will last probably 50k miles and folks will be able to properly test drive the vehicle, a clutch-only replacement will probably cost you $600-$800 and you will be able to sell a fully functional vehicle. I would probably start the price at $7000 since it appears the G's are slightly devalued where you live but make sure it is fully detailed in and out, buy the matching color paint pen from Nissan and "fix" the worst spots drop the price down to $6k when people try to haggle with you, drop in increments of $500 during the bargaining session so if they do convince you to drop the price twice (likely once due to mechanical repairs and a second drop due to cosmetic repairs) then the seller will feel like they are getting a "better deal" even though you are expecting to only get $6k out of the car in the first place.
I think $6k is a fair price considering it needs valve covers and a repainted spoiler, 6MT premium G's still have a lot of value but be prepared to explain to them the nature of the Rev-Up motor and how they drink oil regardless of mileage, don't try to hide anything from the seller just be straight with them about all the nuances of that vehicle. Nothing makes someone walk away quicker then when they feel like their being lied to, if you are honest with them they'll be much more likely to buy because they know EXACTLY what they're getting.
Agreed 100%. The 6mt will make it a lot easier to sell. I see 4 or 5 Autos for sale to every 6mt for sale, at least where I’m from. People know they’re harder to find so they’re usually willing and already expecting to pay more vs and Auto. I was anyways. I think you’d lose out big time trying to part it out considering the only major issue with it is the clutch. Good luck tho
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