No Crank-No Start 03 G35 Coupe 140k
#1
No Crank-No Start 03 G35 Coupe 140k
Whats good guys n gals? So last night I went to fill my tank all the way up, from little less than 1/4 to completely full (topped if off), afterwards I tried to crank the car and it would not turn the engine, every time I turned the key it was followed by the sound of just one click, though the headlights were very bright and all of the electronics would come on in the car .I figured it could be a bad battery, luckily a buddy of mine passed me and pulled over to try and jump me off, it was a no go I do not believe it has anything to do with the fuel pump due to the sound of which it is making. We then tried taking a Flathead and a hammer and hitting the starter, afterwards ending up giving in and calling a tow truck. I don't believe it has anything to do with the Anti-theft/Immobilizer either. Going to check battery tomorrow with voltmeter to confirm that battery is not at fault, I tried disconnecting the negative terminal and still no luck, no corrosion/build up on battery terminals. I have read some forums regarding on how it could be the cam shaft sensors or ignition switch. Though I have never had any problems since I have had the car (about 4 months), other than one time when I was stopped at a stop light for about 15 mins and the engine shut down on me causing my car to roll backwards. If anyone has any ideas you are more than welcome to reply back with anything in mind, thanks a million for the feedback and taking your time to assist me!
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Front and rear cameras, tire pressure for all four tires can display on screen,folding side view mir
Whats good guys n gals? So last night I went to fill my tank all the way up, from little less than 1/4 to completely full (topped if off), afterwards I tried to crank the car and it would not turn the engine, every time I turned the key it was followed by the sound of just one click, though the headlights were very bright and all of the electronics would come on in the car .I figured it could be a bad battery, luckily a buddy of mine passed me and pulled over to try and jump me off, it was a no go I do not believe it has anything to do with the fuel pump due to the sound of which it is making. We then tried taking a Flathead and a hammer and hitting the starter, afterwards ending up giving in and calling a tow truck. I don't believe it has anything to do with the Anti-theft/Immobilizer either. Going to check battery tomorrow with voltmeter to confirm that battery is not at fault, I tried disconnecting the negative terminal and still no luck, no corrosion/build up on battery terminals. I have read some forums regarding on how it could be the cam shaft sensors or ignition switch. Though I have never had any problems since I have had the car (about 4 months), other than one time when I was stopped at a stop light for about 15 mins and the engine shut down on me causing my car to roll backwards. If anyone has any ideas you are more than welcome to reply back with anything in mind, thanks a million for the feedback and taking your time to assist me!
"A/T MODEL Power is supplied at all timesthrough 40A fusible link (letter M, located in the fuse and fusible link box)to ignition switch terminal 1.With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied:to 10A fuse (No.80, located in the IPDM E/R)When the selector lever in the P or N position, power is supplied:from TCM terminal 48to IPDM E/R terminal 43.Ground is supplied:to IPDM E/R terminals 14, 45 and46from body grounds E17 and E43.Then starter relay is turn ON.With the ignition switch in the START position, IPDM E/R is energized and power is supplied:from ignition switch terminal 4to IPDM E/R terminal 11 andthrough IPDM E/R terminal 4to starter motor terminal 1.The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and starter motor. Thestarter motor is grounded to the engine block. With power and ground supplied, cranking occurs and the engine starts"
Good luck
TelcomanGood luck
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EDIT: First thing to do is try to start it again now that it's cooled down, a common type of failure of a starter is the solenoid suffering from heat soak and you end up with a no-start condition on a hot motor, if it starts right up this morning then you probably just need a new starter, if not then...
If it clicked then it TRIED to start but didn't have enough amperage to turn the starter, this could be because of the battery or the power distribution, OR because of a starter that failed. I would disconnect the battery and throw it on a charger to see if it tries to take a charge, if it DOES try to take a charge then let it fully charge and try to start the car again, you might have a failing battery or perhaps a failing alternator. If it DOES NOT take any charge then I would jack up and support the front of the vehicle and remove the starter then bench test it for operation. If the starter is bad then replace it, if the starter is STILL GOOD then pull all the spark plugs and drive belts and try to turn the motor by hand, it may have seized.
If it clicked then it TRIED to start but didn't have enough amperage to turn the starter, this could be because of the battery or the power distribution, OR because of a starter that failed. I would disconnect the battery and throw it on a charger to see if it tries to take a charge, if it DOES try to take a charge then let it fully charge and try to start the car again, you might have a failing battery or perhaps a failing alternator. If it DOES NOT take any charge then I would jack up and support the front of the vehicle and remove the starter then bench test it for operation. If the starter is bad then replace it, if the starter is STILL GOOD then pull all the spark plugs and drive belts and try to turn the motor by hand, it may have seized.
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NATS interlocked will crank normally just not fire the coil packs or open the injectors until you have 5 failed starts, then it goes into mode 1 which disables the ignition relay until you break out of lockout mode with a registered key.
I assume it's a NATS interlock because he said he's got a flashing light with ignition ACC but we also need to verify it's a solid red light when ignition ON, regardless of whether the engine actually cranks or not.
I assume it's a NATS interlock because he said he's got a flashing light with ignition ACC but we also need to verify it's a solid red light when ignition ON, regardless of whether the engine actually cranks or not.
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