Hey guys, new to the forum here because ive come to the decision I want to give g35s a try. Idk too much about these cars yet but i found one which color appeales to me for future ideas and great interior. However this car has a full swapped out exhaust and an intake. From my experience, i know somw cars need a tune with these upgrades. Is it nessesary this car have a tune? I dont want to buy something that might blow in a few miles. Thanks!

 

How many miles are on the car and what's the price? The car has a ton of goodies on it and maintenance seems to have been a focus of his if the listing is to be believed. Couple of things: If that car doesn't already have a tune I'd be very surprised. Almost all CAI's are usually detrimental to power output as all they do is suck in hot air from the engine but a couple can actually be beneficial with headers, larger throttle body, full exhaust etc. The Berk HFC's are known to fail as their construction is less than desirable. I'm also curious as to why he made an extensive mod list but didn't list the wheel specs/brand.

I will suggest you get a pre-purchase inspection by a 3rd party, I'd look for a shop that deals with modified vehicles in your area to do that. Let us know how this turns out.

 

Ok so he got back to me and I'm gonna start answering your questions along with some questions of mine.

Miles 98K $7500

The car does not have a tune but he said it runs rich. Not sure if its good to even look at bc I worried about possible damage.

The wheels are ESR 18x10.5

Ill look into getting a pro to look at it just cost a bit


U mentioned something about the cai not being beneficial at all. Does that mean there is no use to have one on any g35 I buy? It does have the 1320 headers and the semi custom exhaust. If I get this one ill swap out the cats

Thanks!

 

I would have thought it would be running learn with headers, HFC, exhaust and intake, not rich.

Intakes on this car can make a bit more power, but it's almost all top end (you do get an amazing sound though). From what I've heard, sucking in hot air is the major concern; to that end a Stillen intake or a JWT Popcharger with some custom enclosure work are the best ways to go. Alternatively, get the airbox from a rev-up engine with a K&N filter to make a bit more power than stock (rev-up box has a small velocity stack). A quality intake like the Stillen kit may net you 5whp at the very top, but IMO the throttle feels smoother and the sound alone is worth it, as well as adding some aesthetics to your engine bay.

Seymore online here can hook you up with a solid e-tune session for somewhere near $500-600, worked really well on my car. Dyno-tuning usually runs about $600-750 near me, and it'll really squeeze every bit out possible. Probably a good call to dyno-tune with that mod list.

 

I don't know enough about these cars to know what they tend to do with no tune and mods, but if it is running rich there's nothing to worry about except crappy gas mileage and maybe not passing smog. Running lean is what to worry about

It is a lil pricey to get an inspection done, but if you're serious about the car it's worth it. I also use that as a guage in my interest in used cars. If I'm leaning towards not wanting to spend the money for an inspection then I don't buy

I wouldn't say there's no use. Blue is just trying to let you know that this engine is picky and few CAI available are beneficial to making power, especially without other mods, and the listing just says CAI + K&N filter. So, makes it seem like of off brand/low quality probably

Also, that 6 puck clutch is not something you want in there. That's meant for cars that only see the track/have more power + supporting mods. One, the drive-ability of that clutch must be awful/not very fun on the street. Two, the clutch is meant to be the weakest point. When you have a really strong clutch like that one you are putting a lot more strain on the rest of the drivetrain. So, I would suggest a clutch replacement on the list of things to do in near future if you do end up with this car

Edit: Just noticed he has CV axle at 90k on there. I wonder when that clutch went in. I would ask why that was replaced, and what it was replaced with. Most non OEM quality half shafts/CV replacements out there are crap

 

I would also recommend a pre purchase inspection. I myself am in the market for a 2nd vehicle, and I'm pretty familiar with cars, but still got an inspection done on the last car I almost bought (especially because the car is +$10k). everything looked great, idled/drove perfect, but during the inspection they found the check engine codes were cleared recently, misfire in 2 cylinders, oil+coolant mixed in the oil expansion tank, and a few small things. when I called to price around the rate was $120-$300. this is especially important in some states because some are not very friendly to the private party buyer of a used car, used to watch alot of peoples court and it didn't end well alot of times for the buyer, lol. like previously mentioned, it does look like maintenance was important to the previous owner, but better to be safe and out $150 bucks. the car I looked at I would have rated a 9.5/10 and look how that went. GL man

 

Definitely agree and get an inspection. Did they ever say why its being sold? From all the mods, i have a feeling they might have dogged it out and reliability will be an issue. I see that its in Chicago. Take a good look at the undercarriage.

 

That's what im worried about it being lean and having damage. And the stg 4 clutch I wanna find out why it was in there but im sure the car was beat to hell if it has that installed.

Im going to look at 2 this Saturday. the grey 06 and a black 05 with a rev up motor. What the deal with the rev up motor? Better than what I guess would be another engine?

I like the grey one a lot but if I end up with black the only thing I don't like is the fact of a black car with tints and black rims (because I love black rims) its just too much black but I did see pics on one with yellow cap JR rims and yellow calipers which I thought looked very good so im gonna consider a black one still. Just did a quick search and I cant even find JR rims.

Whatever of the 2 im liking more ill probs get it checked out by a pro.

Thanks again!

 

03-04 non revup 280 hp. 05+ 298hp but less torque. Ive read that rev ups burn more oil than non revup. Best bet would be to check all liquids. Oil, coolant, power steering, and brake. Definitely check the bushings, window motors, door locks, and center console cd changer. Those almost always fail. There might be a rip in the drivers seat also.

 

That's a bummer being less torque. Only thing ive heared about oil is the 06 where they needed the catch can but idk. I will definitely check everything out, this will be the first vehicle I buy that's not from Florida so well see how the rust is.

Thanks

 

It's a myth that a catch can will help with oil consumption. The issue is the crappy rings that Nissan installed on all the DE engines. Rev-ups are slightly more prone to the OC than the non-revs but it affects a vast number of all DE motors. Our 5AT G used a normal amount of oil until a little over 100K miles. It's up to almost 151K and used 2.5 qts. every 5K miles and was getting worse. Then she died so she's not consuming anything any more lol.

 

^^^ Catch cans do reduce the amount of oil the car is burning but only from the PCV system, the oil getting past the bad rings you can't do anything about.

It looks like a real nice car, but there's gotta be a reason he's selling. Seems like a great candidate to buy, part out what you don't want, and end up with exactly what you want for a really good price.

 

Don't concern yourself with "running lean" somehow "causing damage". I don't think you fully understand how newer computer controlled motors work, they're not actually RUNNING LEAN, what it means is the ECM is having to compensate for more fuel outside it's acceptable normal operating means. It can still add or subtract fuel as needed but when you exceed a certain threshold it turns the check engine light on so you know that something needs readjustment.

Now if the engine is PINGING BADLY then yes that can cause damage but a lean error code means the ECM is still doing it's job. You have to have a very large hole in the intake plenum before you start hitting the point where the ECM can no longer add enough fuel because the injectors are running at 100% duty cycle.

My biggest concern with this vehicle would be that clutch he put it in, overkilled by a mile and it's going to be an on/off switch and harsh to drive. That's the kind of clutch that goes on a boosted engine making 450+whp not a NA motor that's not even pushing 300.

Plus it's an unsprung clutch which literally DOUBLES the harshness (however there's no chance of clutch damper springs failing). Trust me I had an unsprung clutch on mine for the last year before I blew my RMS, it all depends on what you want from the vehicle and at the time it suited me but for my new clutch I went back to a sprung hub.

However this might be exactly what YOU are looking for, go look at the car, test drive the car, that will tell you about everything you need to know. If he has reciepts for everything that's a really good sign.