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Can't get rid of code P0340 Camshaft position sensor bank 1
Hey all,
A couple weeks back my car threw me the p0340 trouble code. After doing some research, I replaced the sensor with one from amazon (it had good reviews), but the car still has trouble starting and the SES, VDC off, and slip lights are all still on. Will buying an OEM sensor actually fix the problem? Thank you guys in advance.
Buy a hitachi, they were the OEM supplier for the first revision sensors and are a heck of a lot cheaper than the current revision OEM ones. They're good for 100k+ miles which is usually all folks need due to the age of their vehicle.
Buy a hitachi, they were the OEM supplier for the first revision sensors and are a heck of a lot cheaper than the current revision OEM ones. They're good for 100k+ miles which is usually all folks need due to the age of their vehicle.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try to pick one up tomorrow at an autozone. The code has been stressing me out the past 2 weeks, but I deserve it for even thinking a part from Amazon would fix the issue.
I actually recommend people buy their sensors through Amazon because the price is usually cheaper. However Amazon is just a middleman that has a platform for folks to sell their goods through, you can buy very high end AND very low end stuff through them, just have to know exactly what you want beforehand.
I actually recommend people buy their sensors through Amazon because the price is usually cheaper. However Amazon is just a middleman that has a platform for folks to sell their goods through, you can buy very high end AND very low end stuff through them, just have to know exactly what you want beforehand.
I'm trying to look for the Hitachi sensor on amazon but it doesn't seem like they carry it. Are there any other websites you recommend getting the sensor from since autozone charges double the price compared to other places.
So I bought the Hitachi sensor installed it and reset the ECU, but the code is still there and my car still cranks a couple of seconds before starting. No idea what's wrong with it.
Last edited by Jay_VQ35; May 2, 2019 at 03:41 PM.
Reason: Typo
Just to verify, you replaced the STRAIGHT connecter sensor that was on the passenger side yes? And the harness wasn't contaminated with oil or anything yes? If it had oil in the connector you'll have to clean it out with electrical contact cleaner.
Just to verify, you replaced the STRAIGHT connecter sensor that was on the passenger side yes? And the harness wasn't contaminated with oil or anything yes? If it had oil in the connector you'll have to clean it out with electrical contact cleaner.
Yes I replaced the straight sensor on the passenger side. The green clip had some oil on the outside of it but I didnt notice any oil where the sensor and harness connect.
Then the next step would be to verify the continuity of the wires.
3 wire harness.
PINK goes back to pin 18 of the IPDM and pin 119 on the ECM, it should have battery voltage (12v nominal) at the CMP harness.
ORANGE goes to pin 33 on the ECM, nondetectable voltage, it's a frequency and would need a oscilloscope to read.
BLACK goes to chassis ground.
Check continuity and resistance on each of those wires, I recommend unplugging both the IPDM and the ECM so there's no wierd readings, use a long jumper wire with a needle probe or a needle alligator clamp, you might need a second set of hands for it if you don't have the proper probes to keep contact at harnesses Each wire should have 0 or 1 ohm resistance depending on the meter (just stick the leads together against themselves and see what your meter reads for a closed circuit), they should have no continuity to ground except for the black wire which should be 0 or 1 ohm when measured against the negative battery terminal.
Make sure you disconnect the battery before you go unplugging anything.
Then the next step would be to verify the continuity of the wires.
3 wire harness.
PINK goes back to pin 18 of the IPDM and pin 119 on the ECM, it should have battery voltage (12v nominal) at the CMP harness.
ORANGE goes to pin 33 on the ECM, nondetectable voltage, it's a frequency and would need a oscilloscope to read.
BLACK goes to chassis ground.
Check continuity and resistance on each of those wires, I recommend unplugging both the IPDM and the ECM so there's no wierd readings, use a long jumper wire with a needle probe or a needle alligator clamp, you might need a second set of hands for it if you don't have the proper probes to keep contact at harnesses Each wire should have 0 or 1 ohm resistance depending on the meter (just stick the leads together against themselves and see what your meter reads for a closed circuit), they should have no continuity to ground except for the black wire which should be 0 or 1 ohm when measured against the negative battery terminal.
Make sure you disconnect the battery before you go unplugging anything.
Could it be possible that I didn't disconnect the battery when I switched out the sensor. On some tutorials I saw online, the person didn't disconnect the battery but the code went away. Also I'm getting 2 P0340 codes, could that mean anything?
I would disconnect the battery and pump the brakes a few times to drain off any residual energy, wait 10min then plug the battery back in and see if the code goes away.
