Can't get rid of code P0340 Camshaft position sensor bank 1
#1
Can't get rid of code P0340 Camshaft position sensor bank 1
Hey all,
A couple weeks back my car threw me the p0340 trouble code. After doing some research, I replaced the sensor with one from amazon (it had good reviews), but the car still has trouble starting and the SES, VDC off, and slip lights are all still on. Will buying an OEM sensor actually fix the problem? Thank you guys in advance.
A couple weeks back my car threw me the p0340 trouble code. After doing some research, I replaced the sensor with one from amazon (it had good reviews), but the car still has trouble starting and the SES, VDC off, and slip lights are all still on. Will buying an OEM sensor actually fix the problem? Thank you guys in advance.
#2
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,790
Received 2,456 Likes
on
2,150 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
#3
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try to pick one up tomorrow at an autozone. The code has been stressing me out the past 2 weeks, but I deserve it for even thinking a part from Amazon would fix the issue.
#4
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,790
Received 2,456 Likes
on
2,150 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
I actually recommend people buy their sensors through Amazon because the price is usually cheaper. However Amazon is just a middleman that has a platform for folks to sell their goods through, you can buy very high end AND very low end stuff through them, just have to know exactly what you want beforehand.
The following users liked this post:
Jay_VQ35 (04-30-2019)
#5
I actually recommend people buy their sensors through Amazon because the price is usually cheaper. However Amazon is just a middleman that has a platform for folks to sell their goods through, you can buy very high end AND very low end stuff through them, just have to know exactly what you want beforehand.
#6
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,790
Received 2,456 Likes
on
2,150 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
The following users liked this post:
Jay_VQ35 (04-30-2019)
#7
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,790
Received 2,456 Likes
on
2,150 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
The following users liked this post:
Jay_VQ35 (04-30-2019)
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#10
#11
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,790
Received 2,456 Likes
on
2,150 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
The following users liked this post:
tiguy99 (07-24-2020)
#12
Yes I replaced the straight sensor on the passenger side. The green clip had some oil on the outside of it but I didnt notice any oil where the sensor and harness connect.
#13
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,790
Received 2,456 Likes
on
2,150 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
Then the next step would be to verify the continuity of the wires.
3 wire harness.
PINK goes back to pin 18 of the IPDM and pin 119 on the ECM, it should have battery voltage (12v nominal) at the CMP harness.
ORANGE goes to pin 33 on the ECM, nondetectable voltage, it's a frequency and would need a oscilloscope to read.
BLACK goes to chassis ground.
Check continuity and resistance on each of those wires, I recommend unplugging both the IPDM and the ECM so there's no wierd readings, use a long jumper wire with a needle probe or a needle alligator clamp, you might need a second set of hands for it if you don't have the proper probes to keep contact at harnesses Each wire should have 0 or 1 ohm resistance depending on the meter (just stick the leads together against themselves and see what your meter reads for a closed circuit), they should have no continuity to ground except for the black wire which should be 0 or 1 ohm when measured against the negative battery terminal.
Make sure you disconnect the battery before you go unplugging anything.
3 wire harness.
PINK goes back to pin 18 of the IPDM and pin 119 on the ECM, it should have battery voltage (12v nominal) at the CMP harness.
ORANGE goes to pin 33 on the ECM, nondetectable voltage, it's a frequency and would need a oscilloscope to read.
BLACK goes to chassis ground.
Check continuity and resistance on each of those wires, I recommend unplugging both the IPDM and the ECM so there's no wierd readings, use a long jumper wire with a needle probe or a needle alligator clamp, you might need a second set of hands for it if you don't have the proper probes to keep contact at harnesses Each wire should have 0 or 1 ohm resistance depending on the meter (just stick the leads together against themselves and see what your meter reads for a closed circuit), they should have no continuity to ground except for the black wire which should be 0 or 1 ohm when measured against the negative battery terminal.
Make sure you disconnect the battery before you go unplugging anything.
#14
Then the next step would be to verify the continuity of the wires.
3 wire harness.
PINK goes back to pin 18 of the IPDM and pin 119 on the ECM, it should have battery voltage (12v nominal) at the CMP harness.
ORANGE goes to pin 33 on the ECM, nondetectable voltage, it's a frequency and would need a oscilloscope to read.
BLACK goes to chassis ground.
Check continuity and resistance on each of those wires, I recommend unplugging both the IPDM and the ECM so there's no wierd readings, use a long jumper wire with a needle probe or a needle alligator clamp, you might need a second set of hands for it if you don't have the proper probes to keep contact at harnesses Each wire should have 0 or 1 ohm resistance depending on the meter (just stick the leads together against themselves and see what your meter reads for a closed circuit), they should have no continuity to ground except for the black wire which should be 0 or 1 ohm when measured against the negative battery terminal.
Make sure you disconnect the battery before you go unplugging anything.
3 wire harness.
PINK goes back to pin 18 of the IPDM and pin 119 on the ECM, it should have battery voltage (12v nominal) at the CMP harness.
ORANGE goes to pin 33 on the ECM, nondetectable voltage, it's a frequency and would need a oscilloscope to read.
BLACK goes to chassis ground.
Check continuity and resistance on each of those wires, I recommend unplugging both the IPDM and the ECM so there's no wierd readings, use a long jumper wire with a needle probe or a needle alligator clamp, you might need a second set of hands for it if you don't have the proper probes to keep contact at harnesses Each wire should have 0 or 1 ohm resistance depending on the meter (just stick the leads together against themselves and see what your meter reads for a closed circuit), they should have no continuity to ground except for the black wire which should be 0 or 1 ohm when measured against the negative battery terminal.
Make sure you disconnect the battery before you go unplugging anything.
#15
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,790
Received 2,456 Likes
on
2,150 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS