Except me just put a new motor on it and it's still having the same issue.

Use a digital multimeter and measure voltage at the 2 pin harness on the motor, should he 12v up and -12v down.

 

Thats why I recommended jumping the motor directly to battery. Takes all the guessing out of having a weak link somewhere in the circuit.

 

how do you link it straight to the motor

 

With some long electrical wire

 

Yep, long leads with aligator clips on both ends and an inline fuse holder on the positive side. Toss in a 10A fuse.

I prefer the insulated gator clips when doing little probes on harnesses like that. If you don't have insulated ones you can "make them" by wrapping them lightly with electrical tape, just don't put it on too tight, you still need to be able to open the teeth.

 

I also strongly recommend disconnecting the battery completely when doing stuff like that, all it takes is one little arc to fry all sorts of sensitive computer stuff on your car.

 

it was my battery, once it finally died and i replaced it the original motor that i thought burned out started working and the window moves freely up and down now unfortunately the battery i had and motors i bought were the culprit

 

problem is still happening on driver side but passenger side is only coming up half way i’m ready to just give up and sell the car thanks anysways everyone

 

Dont be a quitter man! Have a few beers and get back at it