Hey g fam, I have a 2005 Infiniti g35 coupe, I was driving down the road and my car began to shake and lost all power. I pulled over and got it towed to the closest shop, two of the coil packs were blistered so they replaced them and it started back up. The car ran GREAT for about 4 days and boom the same thing happens. So I get it towed to a different import shop where they diagnosed it as a bad ecu and quoted me $1300. I just got the car towed home and I am looking for a cheaper option. I have been told I can get an ecu fro. The same year model and transmission as my car and have it reflashed for me car through Osiris. I was just wondering if anyone has experienced this before and if there are any other options. I don’t want to spend that much on another ecu and getting it tuned just for it not to start my car and fix the issue. Any input is appreciated!

 

I don't believe uprev has the necessary stuff to mate the ECM to the BCM, my best advice is to remove the kick panel and find out EXACTLY what ECM you have, buy a used one through eBay, drive down to your local Nissan, do the swap right there in the parking lot and have them program it via Consult-III.

However I STRONGLY suspect it's not the ECM causing these issues, all the ECM does is closes the ground for the coil pack. I bet if you pull your plugs you will find the ones on those coil packs have a MUCH larger gap which makes the coil pack work harder to create the arc. Or you have oil in the spark plug tube well. Or your grounding system is corroded, clean the 3 on the timing chain cover (4 if you have an automatic transmission). The one below the coolant reservoir, and where the negative battery cable bolts to the chassis. Also clean the ECM ground behind the glove box.

If it's still frying coil packs it's probably the ECM. Talk to the Nissan service manager about the parking lot swap, they're usually pretty cool about stuff like that.

 

Thank you very much for your input! The only problem with that is my car will not turn over and stay running so I couldn’t drive it there for the parking lot swap

 

And also, there was a significant amount of oil in Clark plug cylinder 1, I replaced the plugs and checked a day after it had oil in it again. I know I need to replace valve covers but I wouldn’t think that would make the car blow the other coils that didn’t have oil in them

 

Any other input appreciated