When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Static exhaust timing. Typically this would only ever be used on racing motors where you don't NEED variable timing because the engine only ever sits at a very narrow range of rpm's like 6800-7500. Adding variable timing is quite a few more potential points of failure that you really don't NEED (or want since failure means losing) on a racing motor.
For street use where you need to make power from idle to redline it's a HUGE advantage though.
Static exhaust timing. Typically this would only ever be used on racing motors where you don't NEED variable timing because the engine only ever sits at a very narrow range of rpm's like 6800-7500. Adding variable timing is quite a few more potential points of failure that you really don't NEED (or want since failure means losing) on a racing motor.
For street use where you need to make power from idle to redline it's a HUGE advantage though.
ok so im still a little confused.... to make power from idle to redline?? im just trying to see what my options are because if my exhaust cam sprockets a toast i wont be able to afford the 700+ each for new ones.
Ok these cams are designed to be used with standalone ECMs usually, for a REPAIR option this isn't really what you should be looking at. Have you disassembled the ones you have to see if they're actually damaged?
By changing the exhaust cam timing in relation to the intake timing you can build more low end or high end power, those JWT cams have a permanent adjustment on them so they don't move once they're set. The ones on your vehicle are constantly adjusting cam timing for max power, they are literally moving the cams in relation to the sprocket. The JWT ones have set screws so the assembler can pick what timing they want and it won't ever move when the engine is assembled. You want as few moving components as you can get away with for a racing motor because all those components can fail in the middle of a race and cause problems.
A race motor is never going to be used at low rpm's, it's going to spend nearly the entirety of it's lift at redline or very close to it so there's no need for the engine to be building power at a lower rpm since it's NEVER used. For straight line use you launch at around 3500 rpm and once you're out of first gear you're only using about 5000-7500 rpm. For a track car you use a LITTLE more of the powerband but nothing under 4000 rpm usually.
By changing the exhaust cam timing in relation to the intake timing you can build more low end or high end power, those JWT cams have a permanent adjustment on them so they don't move once they're set. The ones on your vehicle are constantly adjusting cam timing for max power, they are literally moving the cams in relation to the sprocket. The JWT ones have set screws so the assembler can pick what timing they want and it won't ever move when the engine is assembled. You want as few moving components as you can get away with for a racing motor because all those components can fail in the middle of a race and cause problems.
A race motor is never going to be used at low rpm's, it's going to spend nearly the entirety of it's lift at redline or very close to it so there's no need for the engine to be building power at a lower rpm since it's NEVER used. For straight line use you launch at around 3500 rpm and once you're out of first gear you're only using about 5000-7500 rpm. For a track car you use a LITTLE more of the powerband but nothing under 4000 rpm usually.
Wow, thank you for actually taking the time to write all of that (: and um I would take it apart to see if it's damaged but the FSM said not to take any of the sprockets apart and I can't find any type of instructions of how to do so :/
EM-47 step 15 is where it starts, if you don't find broken parts inside it then I can almost guarantee it's working and not the problem. Pay particular attention to the internal wiring it may be worn/scuffed/broken and need to be fixed. The actual magnet retarding mechanism is not meant to be disassembled from the sprocket cover.
This video shows what it looks like on the inside, yes that's an HR motor but they both look the same and you can see what the magnet retard mechanism looks like.
