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So he bene having fuel gauge problems for awhile now and Ive tried cleaning both sensors with a Q-tip twice and no luck. I read up in the manual and did the Self-Diagnosis Mode of Combination Meter as shown in pictures. When pushing the trip button after being in self diagnosis mode my fuel gauge only goes up alittle past 1/4 when it should be halfway. So after that I wanted to confirm my fuel level sensors were good. I check resistance in both at full and em woth positions and all come around Spec. Does this mean my gauge cluster is bad?
How it should look during test How mine looks
Sub sensor should read 43ohm empty Sub sensor should read 3ohm full Main sensor should read 80omh empty Main sensor should read 3ohm full
Last edited by Jasonpowell98; Nov 22, 2019 at 09:08 PM.
Probably. Good job doing the test and including the sender measurements in your post. There are two or three other people chasing this same thing in the past few days/weeks. The combo meter is probably the most common thing to go bad given what I've read here. If your symptom is that your gauge reads correctly from full to about half and then gets stuck there regardless how little fuel is in the tank, then I'd say it's very likely you have a problem in the combo meter with some resistors that need to be re-soldered. That's what was wrong with mine. Search for fuel gauge problem - detailed thread and you'll see which resistors you need to touch up. Put your needle back where it is now (below half) when you're finished or your gauge will read high.
Probably. Good job doing the test and including the sender measurements in your post. There are two or three other people chasing this same thing in the past few days/weeks. The combo meter is probably the most common thing to go bad given what I've read here. If your symptom is that your gauge reads correctly from full to about half and then gets stuck there regardless how little fuel is in the tank, then I'd say it's very likely you have a problem in the combo meter with some resistors that need to be re-soldered. That's what was wrong with mine. Search for fuel gauge problem - detailed thread and you'll see which resistors you need to touch up. Put your needle back where it is now (below half) when you're finished or your gauge will read high.
thank you for responding and how hard is it to take off the cluster and would it be easier to send it in to someone and get them to fix the cluster instead? My symptoms is the fuel gauge reads random yesterday said I had 1/4 and I ran out of gas sometimes it will be low and next time I get in it goes up or sometimes drops or goes higher slightly as I drive.
and what do you mean by put it where it is now are you talking about when its off? It was only in that position in the test.
Last edited by Jasonpowell98; Nov 23, 2019 at 05:20 PM.
Ok I just re-read your post, sounds like what you have in an INTERMITTENT failure since the needle changes position and sometimes shows a half tank, sometimes the correct reading.
I'm pretty sure your instrument cluster resistors are the problem but here's what I would do. Keep the back seat off for a week or so, maybe even the fuel pump covers as well, or just put a couple screws into it so you can access the harness on it. Every day unplug the harnesses and check the resistance on the primary and sub harness. Keep a piece of paper there and write down where the gas gauge is reading and what the resistance is for each of the connectors. If you notice the gauge is reading wrong then immediately pull over, shut the car off, check the resistance again on those harnesses and see if they're sending some kind of odd reading.
With an intermittent problem it's important to be able to properly troubleshoot WHILE THE PROBLEM IS HAPPENING.k
You should also check for the correct signal at the instrument cluster harness, pin 7 (resistance measured to ground) to make sure there isn't an issue with the wiring itself. White wire/black stripe W/B
Once you narrow it down to knowing 100% that the cluster is receiving the correct signal then you can repair the cluster knowing that you're actually fixing the correct part that has failed.
Sometimes I will use solder t-taps to make "test leads" onto things when the wiring is difficult to access or the intermittent problem happens so infrequently that it might switch back before I have a chance to dig into it to test it. Just use the crimp on style ones because they're quick, then leave a 3' lead on it that accessible to you and put a wire nut on it when you're not testing. This way you would be able to t-tap the fuel pump wires, the instrument cluster wire, and be able to put everything back together with the leads sticking out from under the back seat and instrument cluster. Also add a ground wire that's accessible, cap everything off when not in use.
When you have isolated the problem just use a pair of pliars to pull the t-tap crimp apart, cut the wire where the stab pierced the insulation, use a solder-shrink connecter to put it back together permanently.
Ok I just re-read your post, sounds like what you have in an INTERMITTENT failure since the needle changes position and sometimes shows a half tank, sometimes the correct reading.
I'm pretty sure your instrument cluster resistors are the problem but here's what I would do. Keep the back seat off for a week or so, maybe even the fuel pump covers as well, or just put a couple screws into it so you can access the harness on it. Every day unplug the harnesses and check the resistance on the primary and sub harness. Keep a piece of paper there and write down where the gas gauge is reading and what the resistance is for each of the connectors. If you notice the gauge is reading wrong then immediately pull over, shut the car off, check the resistance again on those harnesses and see if they're sending some kind of odd reading.
With an intermittent problem it's important to be able to properly troubleshoot WHILE THE PROBLEM IS HAPPENING.k
You should also check for the correct signal at the instrument cluster harness, pin 7 (resistance measured to ground) to make sure there isn't an issue with the wiring itself. White wire/black stripe W/B
Once you narrow it down to knowing 100% that the cluster is receiving the correct signal then you can repair the cluster knowing that you're actually fixing the correct part that has failed.
Sometimes I will use solder t-taps to make "test leads" onto things when the wiring is difficult to access or the intermittent problem happens so infrequently that it might switch back before I have a chance to dig into it to test it. Just use the crimp on style ones because they're quick, then leave a 3' lead on it that accessible to you and put a wire nut on it when you're not testing. This way you would be able to t-tap the fuel pump wires, the instrument cluster wire, and be able to put everything back together with the leads sticking out from under the back seat and instrument cluster. Also add a ground wire that's accessible, cap everything off when not in use.
When you have isolated the problem just use a pair of pliars to pull the t-tap crimp apart, cut the wire where the stab pierced the insulation, use a solder-shrink connecter to put it back together permanently.
okay thank you that was very helpful Ill get to doing that pretty soon that will be helpful because it is random right now it seems to be showing the right amount which is 3/4. But I would say its mostly when its past half full wont go down to empty and sometimes will go down to empty when I know I have gas. But next time it acts up Ill make sure to check.
make is there anything thing I have to take apart to get to the instrument cluster wires?
You have also checked the fuel level sender in the unit mounted on the other side of the tank - correct? Both units have to be functioning or your fuel gauge will not show the correct amount of fuel in the tank.
You have also checked the fuel level sender in the unit mounted on the other side of the tank - correct? Both units have to be functioning or your fuel gauge will not show the correct amount of fuel in the tank.
