G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

03 G35 coupe stuck in 4th gear/fail safe mode, AT check light flashing

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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 12:44 AM
  #16  
Yamada Hiro's Avatar
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basic 04 with sport wheel package
Originally Posted by cleric670
P1762 is the direct clutch solenoid on the TCM however I don't think that's the root issue, that can show up anytime the ECM has a fault from the CKP or CMP sensors.

Your CKP sensor code is there for a reason, the ECM didn't get a signal from it.

Do you have the undercarriage cover on the vehicle? If not then you're pouring water into your computer and will have a TON of problems in the future. If you do have the undercover installed then you're probably just experiencing a failing CKP sensor and the TCM went limp mode as a failsafe.

CKP sensor code doesn't show up "when the engine fails to start" it shows up when "the engine is trying to start but the sensor is sending back no data to the ECM".
ill replace the CKP sensor and see how the car reacts. I do have the undercarriage cover on it I checked the trans wires under the car today everything looks good and I also did change the relays and still started in 4th. And my passenger side floor is dry and clean. Thanks guys for the response I’ll keep you guys updated when I replace the sensor.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 11:24 AM
  #17  
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Make sure to use only an OEM Genuine Nissan Parts or Hitachi sensor or it probably won't work.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 05:35 PM
  #18  
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basic 04 with sport wheel package
Originally Posted by cleric670
Make sure to use only an OEM Genuine Nissan Parts or Hitachi sensor or it probably won't work.
I gave the wrong info i got a knock code and the P1762. Could the knock sensor be throwing bad signals to the TCM? And causing my G to be stuck in 4th gear?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 05:44 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Yamada Hiro
I gave the wrong info i got a knock code and the P1762. Could the knock sensor be throwing bad signals to the TCM? And causing my G to be stuck in 4th gear?
was that code always there or did it just appear? Normally a knock sensor won’t stop a car from running it’ll just mess with the timing I believe over time. What have you tried so far? I would definitely check all relays/fuses (including the one on the TCM below the glovebox to the right, you have to remove the panel/clips because it’s behind the panel) and after that attempt an TCM reset(you can find the procedure somewhere on this site)
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 11:38 AM
  #20  
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basic 04 with sport wheel package
Originally Posted by Gabe Puzon
was that code always there or did it just appear? Normally a knock sensor won’t stop a car from running it’ll just mess with the timing I believe over time. What have you tried so far? I would definitely check all relays/fuses (including the one on the TCM below the glovebox to the right, you have to remove the panel/clips because it’s behind the panel) and after that attempt an TCM reset(you can find the procedure somewhere on this site)
The original codes I pulled were the P1762 and The Knock Sensor I reset the codes and the same ones came back. I haven’t replaced any parts, just checked my TCM and IPDM. I haven’t seen anything out of the ordinary I’ll try the reset.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 11:43 AM
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Ok if you ONLY have the knock sensor code and P1762 and the engine will run fine then it's probably either the solenoid in the valve body or the pins for the solenoid broke off at the harness.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 11:50 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by cleric670
Ok if you ONLY have the knock sensor code and P1762 and the engine will run fine then it's probably either the solenoid in the valve body or the pins for the solenoid broke off at the harness.
my moneys on the blue relay at the TCM, have you checked that? Swap it with the same blue relay that’s underneath the hood and test it after, I posted pics of which one If you scroll up you’ll see it. That’s what fixed my problem with generic codes
nvm just that earlier you said you tried that. If that doesn’t work you might need a whole TCM. I wrote a checklist of stuff to check/replace up there somewhere maybe you can try those steps. I’m thinking you have something exposed to the elements, just look for signs of water being somewhere it’s not supposed to. Check under the battery for a puddle if it’s been wet recently
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 01:42 PM
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That code isn't for general TCM failure, it's a specific solenoid on the TCM that's a known failure point. I'm betting you just need to replace the solenoid, you can pick up an entire solenoid kit for these transmissions for about $50 and it's a 4-5 hour job. You'll need 4 quarts of Matic-J/S fluid and some Permatex ultra grey as well.

Worth checking the transmission harnesses though, your tranny should have the 3 green harnesses, unplug them, look for any corrosion, if they look good then plug them back in.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 04:13 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by cleric670
That code isn't for general TCM failure, it's a specific solenoid on the TCM that's a known failure point. I'm betting you just need to replace the solenoid, you can pick up an entire solenoid kit for these transmissions for about $50 and it's a 4-5 hour job. You'll need 4 quarts of Matic-J/S fluid and some Permatex ultra grey as well.

Worth checking the transmission harnesses though, your tranny should have the 3 green harnesses, unplug them, look for any corrosion, if they look good then plug them back in.
the transmission harness is the one below the transmission? It’s probably the harness cross my fingers. I’ll check the harness and unplug it this time and if everything is good I’ll just start the solenoid job in the driveway. Thanks again guys for the quick responses I really truly appreciate the help guys.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 02:08 PM
  #25  
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Thanks

Originally Posted by Gabe Puzon
Hello guys, new here, first of all sorry if this is in the wrong area

2003 G35 coupe, 215,000 miles
Just a few days ago during a heavy rain my G left me stranded. I started the car, reversed out of my spot, and then I put it into drive and felt a huge clunk coming from what I believe is the transmission. This happens in reverse as wel and you can feel the whole car jump when it does this.
As I put it in drive and started to accelerate, I had almost no torque and seemed to be stuck in a higher gear(4th I believe) so I put it into manual mode and the gear indicator on my dash said I was in first, so I drove it to see if I could shift it up but it changed from 1 to D while still in manual mode. I restarted the car, same problem but this time my AT check light flashed for 8 seconds. I scanned a code and got p0720, p0740, and p1564. Never had any problems with these. read that this could be a speed sensor issue but after resetting the battery and unplugging and plugging back the TCM I was given a new set of codes, u1000, u1001 and c1136, which are related to the CAN and ABS. I’m believing my IPDM or TCM got wet because I found water on my wires leading to the TCM from the ECU, and there was also a small puddle where my IPDM is located. Idk where to start besides replacing my TCM with another one to try and see if this fixes it. Any other suggestions? Thanks
just wanted to reply to your post I put a new transmission in my car because my old transmission was stuck in 4th gear and my car is giving me a bunch of crazy codes been chasing this down for 4 days now the new transmission is doing the same thing all that work perfect in the car I pulled it from and this post save me from setting my car on fire because it was that relay
 
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 02:16 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Bruce Turner
just wanted to reply to your post I put a new transmission in my car because my old transmission was stuck in 4th gear and my car is giving me a bunch of crazy codes been chasing this down for 4 days now the new transmission is doing the same thing all that work perfect in the car I pulled it from and this post save me from setting my car on fire because it was that relay
I’m glad I could help! I felt the same way so that’s why I posted it, didn’t want others to deal with the same frustration.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 11:06 PM
  #27  
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04’ G35 Coupe Sport
Originally Posted by Gabe Puzon
I’m glad I could help! I felt the same way so that’s why I posted it, didn’t want others to deal with the same frustration.
hey whats up man, im having the same exact problem, car stuck in 4th, AT CHECK light, VDC, SLIP light. It rained pretty bad the day my car started acting up and my windshield doesn’t have a seal on it so i checked underneath the battery and there is a huge puddle of water. What steps do i take after removing the water? Could that be the only problem? Is there anything under the battery that’s electrical? Im not at home right now so i cant check and see. Could it have tripped something underneath the battery? The water is literally under the battery inside of the thing that the battery sits on. PLEASE HELP!
 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 11:16 PM
  #28  
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First step will be removing whatever’s clogging that hole that drains the battery cowel, remove the battery and the tray if you’re able to and take a screwdriver or something similar, long and sturdy, and feel around For a hole and push through it and clear any debris, there is a fuse box directly in that area but not under where the water is sitting. Once you clear that out, you can take the plastic trim sitting just above the battery next to the hood, and remove it(will expose the bottom of the windshield and the plastic tabs that support it) on the passenger side there’s a rubber grommet that’s designed to keep water out of the car, have you noticed a puddle on your passenger Floor? If so then that’s where it’s coming in from. If it’s wet on the inside then your TCM could be damaged. You have to fasten that rubber grommet to the car to create a seal, but if that’s not your issue then it’s probably not the same as mine. But there is one way to test it, you can remove the big blue fuse from next to your battery that is used As a relay for your reverse lights, it’s marked as so, and place that where your TCM fuse is, (only works on 03-04 g’s)
 
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Old Jun 22, 2025 | 04:43 PM
  #29  
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I had the same problem and wanted to add some more detail and say thanks to you guys! Car would shift quite hard when going into reverse, and when driving would accelerate very slowly. It was stuck in 4th gear. A/T light would flash when you started it and check engine line was on. I had a host of codes as well:
P0720 Output speed sensor
P1762 Direct clutch solenoid
P1767 HLR/C clutch solenoid
P1752 Input clutch solenoid
P1757 Front brake solenoid
P1772 LC brake solenoid
P0740 Torque converter
P0745 Pressure control solenoid A

The problem was the TCM Relay (A/T PV IGN RELAY) Inside the passenger footwell behind the panel by where the passenger right foot is there is the TCM. Just above it is the TCM relay which is blue circled in yellow in this picture. I swapped it with one under the hood by the battery that is the exact same part (used for reverse lights) and it solved the problem.


TCM Relay Location circled in yellow
TCM Relay Location circled in yellow

Here is the location of the one under the hood you can swap with to verify. It's circled in red.:


You can test the relay by applying 12VDC (battery power) across pins 1 and 2 and it should faintly "click" and connect pins 3 and 5 like a light switch. You should hear it click and then will have continuity between pins 3 and 5.
You can order off of Amazon or I purchased one locally at AutoZone AutoZone Duralast Multi-Purpose Relay 20279.

sconner
 
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 08:32 PM
  #30  
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I've encountered this problem a few times with different G35 over the years. Each time, it turned out to be a leaking harness grommet above the battery, usually due to someone running a power wire through there for a stereo without sealing up the hole properly.
 
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