Ok, I finally have all the stuff removed and am ready to get the actual upper oil pan off.
I had to take the rack off with the frame because those rack bolts would not yield to 450'# impact wrench..yup!!

I have the tool to hammer between the block and the pan.
Although mine has set screws to hold the blade and looks like it is going to get in the way of the block for a slightly angled tapping.


There were others on Amazon that looked to be one piece; I will order one of those.


I also have a stiff putty knife that has a hammer end....


Q1: Where is the best place to start separating the pan from the block?
Q2: Are there any other tools that will help me get this done?
Q3: Are there any places that I can pry on the oil pan?
Q4: Do I need to remove the main pulley/balancer? (yes I should probably know this had I done more research)


Thanks to all in advance..

 

I use a wide scraper blade with a slight angle on it. You can buy them anywhere paint is sold. Back end has a solid surface for hammer work. The pan is sealed but once you get some separation it will start to shred the sealant apart.

 

When I pull the upper pan I don't use anything but a mallet to separate. I don't want to mess up the machined surfaces. If a mallet won't crack it open it is probably because you didn't get all of bolts out or someone has sealed it with something stronger than Ultra grey RTV. I use this method on SR20 and VQ engines. The lower pans I use a 5 in 1 painters knife:

Just work all 4 corners with good solid hits. It should start to separate on one corner and then it's cake after that.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...x=6&ajaxhist=0

 

Thank guys for two useful tips

I will probably tap the seal removal tool on the mid pan area where there are straight runs, then wedge some plastic flooring shims along the same edges..then tap the corners.

I might be able to sandwich the stiff paint scraper between two plastic shims to pry a bit.

Also, supposedly there are some pry points that are notched, like the one I can see at the bottom of the bell housing area.

I just picked up two oil pump seal rings to replace while I am in there..15066-ZL80B..I read that there was a TSB on the rings and she is a 2003.

 

The factory sealant might look like the grey stuff we buy in a tube but is a much stronger adhesive and it has gone through a lot of heat cycles. Some minor nicks in the sealing surface are not an alarm, major gorges would be.

 

I am thinking about the black permatex that you hand tighten and let cure for ~1 hr before final torque down.
I don't know how fast I can work while I do this.

I'll do a few dry runs first and maybe make a prop to hold the pan up for me while get the bolts in.


Nissan calls for Permatex Ultra Grey 82194, but that is quick drying?

 

Ultra Grey is not quick dry, it requires 24 hours to cure (depends on ambient temp). You'll have plenty of time to get the oil pan back on, just be sure to thoroughly clean both mating surfaces of oil, use brakeleen or something of that nature.

 

I use Ultra Grey for everything. Upper,Lower oil pans, Timing cover, Transmission cases. If you use ultra black you'll never get them apart without a sledge hammer believe me I have done it I always let it set for 15 mins and then assemble. Make sure it is 100% clean and oil free or it will not seal. Then I let it set for 6-8 hours before oil goes back in.

 

OK!!
Well the seal was so thin that a wedge would not get between the block and the pan.!
It looked like it was going to take days to get the thing off...
BUT..
I have got the pan nearly off!
I hit the pan around the corners with a rubber mallet..then...
I used a BF screwdriver on the pry-point at the bottom of the bellhousing and it came right out!

well almost..it seems stuck around the balancer area.

Q: Do I need to remove the damper/balancer to get at a upper pan bolt behind it??

I have the 5 bolts removed from under the lower oil pan..2 long and three short..

EDIT: STUPID STUPID STUPID!!
It was the Main belt tensioner bracket bolt!!

I am finally in the put everything back together part,...well minus separating the rack from the frame..

Happy day..Thanks all!!