03 valve cover replacement
Uh I hope I didn't mess up. I haven't started this yet but I put a little bit of rtv on the valve cover. To hold the gasket on. I put a dab by just about every screw hole. Is this a bad thing? I did it a few days ago I think before you guys mentioned it but, I've been holding it in for a few days and it's eating away at me lol
Last edited by Siciliang35; Apr 10, 2020 at 12:28 AM.
Uh I hope I didn't mess up. I haven't started this yet but I put a little bit of rtv on the valve cover. To hold the gasket on. I put a dab by just about every screw hole. Is this a bad thing? I did it a few days ago I think before you guys mentioned it but, I've been holding it in for a few days and it's eating away at me lol
Uh I hope I didn't mess up. I haven't started this yet but I put a little bit of rtv on the valve cover. To hold the gasket on. I put a dab by just about every screw hole. Is this a bad thing? I did it a few days ago I think before you guys mentioned it but, I've been holding it in for a few days and it's eating away at me lol
What's up guys appreciate all your suggestions. I finally got the car done, took about 10 hours. Let the car run after about a day of not touching it and everything was fine, ran smooth while parked at 650 rpm with engine warm.
Today today I took a ride to AutoZone because I want to change my oil and the oil cooler gasket about a half a mile down the road at a stoplight car died, check engine turns on for a second.
I got to AutoZone about a mile down the road shut off the car and went to start it, car started but RPMs dropped to zero and car died. Did it again a few times held the gas down and it started and seems like it's okay again.
What could this be? I double and triple checked to all connections, the ground that I disconnected from the engine block is tight. The battery terminal which I disconnected is also tight. I sprayed silicone lube on every connection before I plugging in any electrical connectors.
Should I do a idle relearn because I just shut the car off again and when I first started the RPMs go to about 1000 to 100 and then even out
Today today I took a ride to AutoZone because I want to change my oil and the oil cooler gasket about a half a mile down the road at a stoplight car died, check engine turns on for a second.
I got to AutoZone about a mile down the road shut off the car and went to start it, car started but RPMs dropped to zero and car died. Did it again a few times held the gas down and it started and seems like it's okay again.
What could this be? I double and triple checked to all connections, the ground that I disconnected from the engine block is tight. The battery terminal which I disconnected is also tight. I sprayed silicone lube on every connection before I plugging in any electrical connectors.
Should I do a idle relearn because I just shut the car off again and when I first started the RPMs go to about 1000 to 100 and then even out
I had to go to another AutoZone for something and the car shut off while I was making a turn. As soon as I got to AutoZone I did the idle relearn and it steadys the idle when I first start the car now . Before I would turn it on it would go up to $1,000 and drop to zero and die now it doesn't drop to zero Hope that helped. I'll let you guys know
Don't spray silicone spray directly into the electrical harnesses, good way to screw up the electrical connection. Take them all apart and clear that junk out with electrical contact cleaner. Make sure it's safe for use on plastic.
also double check to make sure you don’t have vacuum leaks anywhere, that you reconnected all of your rubber hoses and tubes.
Just quick update. Got all the issues taken care of. As far as doing the valve cover it was pretty easy, there was one screw on the valve cover by the passenger side firewall that was a little bit of a pain, swivel head took care of it. The wiring harness was in the way when putting the valve covers in. A couple of zip ties took care of that. I was also surprised I didn't have much oil in the intake plenum. Some blue tape labeling every bolt and putting tape on every hose i disconnected helps to not forget to connect anything. A bunch of brake cleaner bottles to clean off any oil that was leaking anywhere. Time and patience and this job is pretty easy and straightforward.
TheThe only thing I would do different if I was to do it again and had a little extra money was change the cam sensors while I was there, injectors, and coil packs.
TheThe only thing I would do different if I was to do it again and had a little extra money was change the cam sensors while I was there, injectors, and coil packs.

The cam sensors do go out on these cars, but I think its not a huge issue. I did change the o-ring on my passenger side cam sensor a few weeks ago, and I was able to remove the sensor and change it with the rest of the engine intact. Its a tight fit, but a 10mm socket on a stubby 1/4 ratchet you should be able to sneak it out. Drivers side, well, intake piping at min is going to probably come off.... I DID however purchase a set of cam sensors and a crank sensor from RockAuto just in case one of them craps out on me.
People - go easy on the RTV and rubber gaskets. One of these days people will learn that RTV and RUBBER do not play well with each other. A small dab here and there to hold a gasket in place is okay but beyond that you are just creating additional problems down the road. If you need to glue a rubber gasket in place, the best thing to use is Permatex Rubber Cement - black in color. Let the gasket do it's job, RTV does not seal to rubber and if enough oil and other chemicals are in the area of the joint it will actually seep between what is essentially two layers of rubber back to back.
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