G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

03 valve cover replacement

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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 12:02 AM
  #16  
Siciliang35's Avatar
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Uh I hope I didn't mess up. I haven't started this yet but I put a little bit of rtv on the valve cover. To hold the gasket on. I put a dab by just about every screw hole. Is this a bad thing? I did it a few days ago I think before you guys mentioned it but, I've been holding it in for a few days and it's eating away at me lol
 

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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 12:10 AM
  #17  
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As long as you didn't go crazy with it. The best thing would be to put weight on it while the rtv was curing
 
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Siciliang35
Uh I hope I didn't mess up. I haven't started this yet but I put a little bit of rtv on the valve cover. To hold the gasket on. I put a dab by just about every screw hole. Is this a bad thing? I did it a few days ago I think before you guys mentioned it but, I've been holding it in for a few days and it's eating away at me lol
You should be fine. I haven't done my VC on my G yet, but I've done so on other cars. I used a little dab of RTV at the corners to keep the gasket from falling out whilst installing. Check for leaks after you drive it for a bit and let us know!
 
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Siciliang35
Uh I hope I didn't mess up. I haven't started this yet but I put a little bit of rtv on the valve cover. To hold the gasket on. I put a dab by just about every screw hole. Is this a bad thing? I did it a few days ago I think before you guys mentioned it but, I've been holding it in for a few days and it's eating away at me lol
A good video to watch,
I put the black RTV in quite a bit and then used painters tape and wrapped it around tight .. I put a few strips on each cover. Of course I thought the next day I was going to get to put them on and do the project and it ended up being many weeks instead as they sat with the tape but all was fine. Just strap them in so the gasket is seated properly and the RTV isnt messing up how they are seated. You should be fine. Its not all that bad of a project. Frustrating with two of the bolts (use the smaller rachet sizes with the swivel to get that corner bolt. You need slim and skinny to get it but other than that its not bad
 
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 10:15 AM
  #20  
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What's up guys appreciate all your suggestions. I finally got the car done, took about 10 hours. Let the car run after about a day of not touching it and everything was fine, ran smooth while parked at 650 rpm with engine warm.
Today today I took a ride to AutoZone because I want to change my oil and the oil cooler gasket about a half a mile down the road at a stoplight car died, check engine turns on for a second.
I got to AutoZone about a mile down the road shut off the car and went to start it, car started but RPMs dropped to zero and car died. Did it again a few times held the gas down and it started and seems like it's okay again.
What could this be? I double and triple checked to all connections, the ground that I disconnected from the engine block is tight. The battery terminal which I disconnected is also tight. I sprayed silicone lube on every connection before I plugging in any electrical connectors.

Should I do a idle relearn because I just shut the car off again and when I first started the RPMs go to about 1000 to 100 and then even out
 
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 10:53 AM
  #21  
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I had to go to another AutoZone for something and the car shut off while I was making a turn. As soon as I got to AutoZone I did the idle relearn and it steadys the idle when I first start the car now . Before I would turn it on it would go up to $1,000 and drop to zero and die now it doesn't drop to zero Hope that helped. I'll let you guys know
 
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 11:20 AM
  #22  
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Happened again. Stop to make a turn and the car died. Anybody have any suggestions
 
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 02:43 PM
  #23  
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Don't spray silicone spray directly into the electrical harnesses, good way to screw up the electrical connection. Take them all apart and clear that junk out with electrical contact cleaner. Make sure it's safe for use on plastic.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2020 | 07:38 AM
  #24  
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G35 Sedan Leather Base, Z1 Plenum Spacer, Z Tube (Currently sold to a friend)
Originally Posted by Siciliang35
Happened again. Stop to make a turn and the car died. Anybody have any suggestions
In addition to cleaning and drying your electrical connections, yes you will want to do a throttle reset since you disconnected it and the battery. You can read the procedure in the FSM (and write out how the steps make sense for you, that’s what I did) or watch a video online.

also double check to make sure you don’t have vacuum leaks anywhere, that you reconnected all of your rubber hoses and tubes.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 12:27 PM
  #25  
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Just quick update. Got all the issues taken care of. As far as doing the valve cover it was pretty easy, there was one screw on the valve cover by the passenger side firewall that was a little bit of a pain, swivel head took care of it. The wiring harness was in the way when putting the valve covers in. A couple of zip ties took care of that. I was also surprised I didn't have much oil in the intake plenum. Some blue tape labeling every bolt and putting tape on every hose i disconnected helps to not forget to connect anything. A bunch of brake cleaner bottles to clean off any oil that was leaking anywhere. Time and patience and this job is pretty easy and straightforward.
TheThe only thing I would do different if I was to do it again and had a little extra money was change the cam sensors while I was there, injectors, and coil packs.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 11:19 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Siciliang35
TheThe only thing I would do different if I was to do it again and had a little extra money was change the cam sensors while I was there, injectors, and coil packs.
First off, I'm glad to hear you got your car up and running good! I'm yet to do my valve covers yet, I got the both the valve covers from Z1 on sale a bit ago, only to find most my leak is from the cam sensor o-rings
The cam sensors do go out on these cars, but I think its not a huge issue. I did change the o-ring on my passenger side cam sensor a few weeks ago, and I was able to remove the sensor and change it with the rest of the engine intact. Its a tight fit, but a 10mm socket on a stubby 1/4 ratchet you should be able to sneak it out. Drivers side, well, intake piping at min is going to probably come off.... I DID however purchase a set of cam sensors and a crank sensor from RockAuto just in case one of them craps out on me.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 11:22 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by andrewl_v35
I DID however purchase a set of cam sensors and a crank sensor from RockAuto just in case one of them craps out on me.
Just to be sure, you bought Hitachi sensors right? Aftermarket sensor don't play nice with these cars
 
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 09:16 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by FreshLikeAG
Just to be sure, you bought Hitachi sensors right? Aftermarket sensor don't play nice with these cars
Crap, I bought the Beck Arnley ones.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 09:07 AM
  #29  
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People - go easy on the RTV and rubber gaskets. One of these days people will learn that RTV and RUBBER do not play well with each other. A small dab here and there to hold a gasket in place is okay but beyond that you are just creating additional problems down the road. If you need to glue a rubber gasket in place, the best thing to use is Permatex Rubber Cement - black in color. Let the gasket do it's job, RTV does not seal to rubber and if enough oil and other chemicals are in the area of the joint it will actually seep between what is essentially two layers of rubber back to back.
 
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