Proper clutch adjustment
I replaced my master and slave cylinders in my 05 G35 coupe this weekend, well actually getting this thing bled took at least a week, but I got her done tonight! Bleeding that system was a NIGHTMARE! During my test drive, she drove fine, but I noticed there is an audible difference between a pressed and an unpressed clutch pedal when in neutral and at a standstill, and I can't find anything in regards to proper adjustment in my service manual other than "make sure the clevis pin floats freely". Is there a thread count at the clevis, or better yet a specified travel distance for the withdraw lever on the tranny that I should aim for?
TDR: how do I properly adjust clutch engagement?
Cheers!
TDR: how do I properly adjust clutch engagement?
Cheers!
It all starts with bench bleeding the clutch master cylinder, if you didn't do this step you're never going to get the air out of it. Check out a youtube video on bench bleeding.
Once it's properly bled then all your need to do is adjust the inboard rod so the clevis pin floats.
Don't use a Motiv bleeder for the clutch or you can push the o-ring off the piston shaft, gotta do it by hand (foot) the old fashioned way, those 1-way check valve brake bleed kits work great for this but it still helps to have a second person operate the clutch pedal so you can watch the bubbles in the clear hose on the bleeder.
Once it's properly bled then all your need to do is adjust the inboard rod so the clevis pin floats.
Don't use a Motiv bleeder for the clutch or you can push the o-ring off the piston shaft, gotta do it by hand (foot) the old fashioned way, those 1-way check valve brake bleed kits work great for this but it still helps to have a second person operate the clutch pedal so you can watch the bubbles in the clear hose on the bleeder.
So there is really no other adjustment other than making sure the clevis pin is free moving?
A bench bleed is pretty much what I resorted to. I have changed these on other vehicles in the past with no issue, but I eventually had to take the master back out, bench bleed that, and used a handheld vacuum pump for breaks to draw fluid up through the line. it was just a nightmare until I realized I had to do this.
A bench bleed is pretty much what I resorted to. I have changed these on other vehicles in the past with no issue, but I eventually had to take the master back out, bench bleed that, and used a handheld vacuum pump for breaks to draw fluid up through the line. it was just a nightmare until I realized I had to do this.
Yeah you ALWAYS need to bench bleed brake/clutch master cylinders (any vehicle), if they worked properly in the past without a bench bleed that was purely by accident/luck.
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