im purchasing a used 05 6mt coupe and i test drove it yesterday and the clutch was slipping pretty bad (car would rev up before going anywhere) also i felt it stick a little half way down or so, which i hear is pretty common on these cars. the car is at the shop getting a new clutch as we speak, and i will take ownership monday. the mechanic said it is either the clutch, master, or slave cylinder and he would know which after driving it. after he drove it he said it was deffinetly the clutch. im curious when they replace the clutch do they replace the master and slave cylinders (which from what i read on hear is the problem when its sticking) or are they going to put a new clutch in and i still may have the sticking of the clutch pedal?

thanks for the info

 

anyone?

 

clutch slave cylinder. get it replaced under warranty

 

so that doesnt get replaced when replacing the clutch?

 

???

 

Not unless it's showing signs of problems.
If they put a new clutch in it and they still have issues with the pedal feel, then they should replace the slave cyl under warranty as well.

A smart tech that knows the issues with these cars will do them both at once.

 

Slave cylinder at the LEAST! Personally, I'd do both the master and slave.

Are they putting a stock clutch in, IE under warranty? If you're paying, buy an aftermarket clutch and give it to them. FTW

 

Slave cylinder is not automatic replacement with the clutch, although where it resides inside the case I'd do it with the clutch. On earlier models like my '04 (and '05 IIRC) it is outside the trans case and very easy to replace. The tech was almost certainly right on the clutch replacement, but the Slave Cylinder is also in a bad spot and frequently fails.

I replaced mine back around 2006-2007 time frame, maybe 25k miles, I'd have to look it up. The inside was cooked, the seals shot, and some kind of grit in the fluid. Worst of all, when it lost the seals, the clutch fluid was sitting in a puddle. At least it had the good grace to do it in my own driveway, avoiding a flatbed trip!

My Photos are here :
V35 Clutch Slave Photos



Problem is the Slave is so close to the driver's side cat it is subjected to heat and being external subjected to the elements. But I'd rather do an easy fix with a $30 part than have to pull the trans to check one inside the case. That's more like 4-5 hours book.

Replacing the external one would take an hour at most once you know what you need and where it's located. Lousy clutch return would be one early symptom of problems. Slipping clutch, that's the clutch friction disc and not the slave almost for certain (unless you have broken clutch springs, etc, more rare).

IMHO, the OEM clutch is a little weak for the torque the car puts out, replacement at ~30k miles is a frequent occurrence even with people who have a history of getting 70k-100k miles out of their clutch. Also it's unlikely that 100k clutch was subjected to 200 ft-lbs of torque from 2000-6000 rpm of the tach.

OEM pricing on the FW is also absurdly expensive, I went JWT for both clutch and got the lighter FW instead of dual mass. Not everyone's cup of tea but it brings the motor alive with even more rev-happy fun.

 

Problem can be a smart tech does not automatically get approval for replacement of the slave cyl under warranty, someone has to pay for that part. It's smart insurance the customer won't be back with more problems and "adjustments" or "inspections" on the dealer's nickel which cost a lot more to the dealer than having just replace it.

A good dealer would do it, definitely even if it meant they ate the cost, for a part that cost them less than about $15 (for the type on my '04).

Another weak link is the line, that covering is somewhat effective, but where I first noticed weak return and lousy pedal feel was after driving in traffic in very hot weather with some stop and go thrown in. Once things cooled down it felt better.

And as always, bumping up to a better fluid is not a bad idea. Thermal breakdown is usually an area where Motul or other syn fluids will do better. Same for the trans, the expense in my mind is worth it. I use syn in the rear diff, too, and I'd replace it at 30-40k intervals if the car is used hard at all. First time diff fluid I'd do a lot earlier. Very easy to do, just have to ensure you get the right amount back in. Royal Purple IIRC was my choice last time.