I've been overdue for a smog in order to get my registration complete.
I've had this code for a long time and I don't get WTF is wrong.
Please help, I truly want to resolve this stupid issue..I'm starting to hate this car for spending so much just to get it to par---All suspensions (camber kits), staggered tires (not being able to buy 3 tires and get 4th free deal), sun roof being sporadic, hole in exhaust near the bracket after the sensor 2, etc...

I know what the code is.
So, I have changed the O2 sensor 3 times (1st was a fraudulent Bosch O2 that had a 16" chord from ebay saying it was genuine, 2nd being another Bosch O2 from ebay--legit, and the current 3rd time for Denso O2 for BOTH upstreams left and right)
I drove 20 miles and it comes on again!!! WHY!?

Here's what I've changed so far:
PCV--seems it was not doing good as oil was burning more than usual.
Gaskets for both sides--before and after the Catalitic Converter.
Yesterday I changed the left Exhaust Manifold gasket (I'll do the right on a later date). When I removed the original gasket, there were no sights of leaking in air.
I've checked all rubber hoses visually and don't see anything of concern, unless I have to do the testing at shop.
Air filter changed.

I was going to change or do something with the following:
Clean the MAF sensor or replace it.
EGR Solenoid change. 14930-CD70A > 14930-CD700 (2005 rev up engine)
Fuel Injection Cleaner?
Reset the ECU's 10 amp and 15 amp fuse?

btw the B2 sensor had the tip being a little whitish w/a little black towards the threads of the sensor.; B1 sensor was white.

Please help. What else am I supposed to do this code?! I've seen a few posts but I'm not getting my answers.

Thanks in advanced!

 

^^^
Don't expect quality parts on EBay

You get what you pay for.

Only use OEM quality parts
Follow the troubleshooting steps in the FSM

 

I actually just did the following:
Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.



So I'll see what happens after another 20 miles. But isn't resetting on my ODBI-II the same thing?

 

Did the self-learning reset but the codes cam back up after 8 miles..

Seriously, anybody have any info on this?

Thx

 

Ok my car just shut off and I can't get it to start.. feels like I don't have gas (have gas in the tank it seems, unless my fuel gage is off) and there's no combustion. I guess I can go get gas for this part.

So car is outta commission... (sucks it's the same day I lost my job last thursday)

Anybody know what to check first?
The Fuel pressure dampers, the injectors, or fuel pufuelsomeone's gotta know something... thx

 

Put two gallons of gas in your tank!

When is the last time you filled up your tank, and how many miles have you driven?

 

Just replaced fuel pump (just b/c), spark plugs (they were bad), fuel injectors (got em cleaned n tested), valve covers (leak; can't replace the rubber it seems so got new ones from z1). Got the car started.

Thought the old leak in the intake was the culprit, but car still pulls p1283... gonna change the temp sensor as a friend suggested it..

What else can I do?! Seriously? $1000+ in parts alone so far.. anyone know?

 

Spend the one hour diagnostic fee at your local Infiniti dealer

 

Pull the plugs and look for the one that's different, then you'll know what cylinder is misbehaving and can troubleshoot properly.

Stop throwing parts at the car hoping something will randomly fix the issue. You weren't throwing any O2 sensor codes yet you replaced them?? Now you want to replace your temp sensor for some reason even though you never said anything about the gauge reading incorrectly?? You replaced the fuel pump for... reason??

And now you're complaining that you're almost $1k in the hole for things completely unrelated to all the parts you are putting into the car? Might as well change your tires while you're at it I guess.

Start by pulling the plugs and looking for one that's obviously different, next scan the vehicle with the appropriate OBD2 scanner, you need one with protocol ISO 9141-2, the one you're using doesn't have that protocol because P1283 isn't even a valid code for the coupe. However it's probably just hunting for "lean bank 2" and throwing out the code that most closely matches.

Next since you're dealing with a likely lean bank 2 look at realtime data for the upstream sensors and see what it's reading, log data and find out exactly when/where it's lean. Smoke test the exhaust since the number 1 reason for this is an exhaust leak. Smoke test the intake since the number 2 reason for this is an intake leak.

 

1283 and 1273 will pop if you are running HFCs or test pipes without a tune. You don't mention whether you are or not. Invest in a quality OBD reader, as the OP mentioned, and just clear the code when it pops or pay for a tune. That's a whole lot cheaper than replacing parts and hoping that will cure it. Even if you are not running HFCs or TPs, clearing the code with a reader often keeps it away for a lot longer than the key-flip fiddling. Best of luck.