Depending on how many miles you have, it may be time to start replacing some suspension components. Upper control arms would be a good start. The UCA's ball joint may be shot by now.
If you're looking for an adjustable control arm (if your car is lowered) I'd recommend the SPC Upper Control Arms since they maintain the stock bushing stiffness.
Depending on your miles/condition, start evaluating your suspension/struts for wear and tear as Danny said ^
Z1 makes a nice set of upper adjustable control arms as well, as well as most of all the lower rear links as well. SPC are great, I had them on my '99 Accord years back.
Compression rod bushings are also notorious for wearing out prematurely, especially if you're lowered.
I will mention that I'm currently running the Z1 FUCA with the poly bushings. I'm not really a fan of this style since I've had issues with a couple of shops because the lock nuts for the ball joint. They tend to come loose over time and can cause clunking/swaying. Shops might charge extra since the control arm has to be removed in a "trial and error" manner to get the perfect adjustment. Compared to the SPC Upper Control arm, they can be adjusted on the car, and overall less work for the alignment tech.
OP you didn't mention ANYTHING about your setup, are you lowered, is it stock? What exactly is your setup? When was the last time you had your alignment checked and what was it set to?
OP you didn't mention ANYTHING about your setup, are you lowered, is it stock? What exactly is your setup? When was the last time you had your alignment checked and what was it set to?
I just bought the car (188k now 192k) process replacing the driver cv axle (rounded on of the head bolts ugh) I'm all stock far as suspension, think there is a lot of bushings I need to replace. Not looking to dump tons of money into it 05' with that many miles on it lol
Regardless of age you still need to get the alignment checked or you WILL be dumping tons of money into tires that prematurely wear. I would start with that once you get it all back up and running.
EDIT: I just doublechecked your picture, that looks like normal front tire wear for the G35, they run more negative camber than a normal car because this is a luxury SPORTS CAR. You're almost on the wear bars on the outer edge of the tire. Regardless, when you put new tires on the thing get your alignment corrected.
Regardless of age you still need to get the alignment checked or you WILL be dumping tons of money into tires that prematurely wear. I would start with that once you get it all back up and running.
EDIT: I just doublechecked your picture, that looks like normal front tire wear for the G35, they run more negative camber than a normal car because this is a luxury SPORTS CAR. You're almost on the wear bars on the outer edge of the tire. Regardless, when you put new tires on the thing get your alignment corrected.
They appear to be fairly new tires.. me only putting maybe 5k miles on it, would it only wear the passenger side? Or should it wear both sides?
There is a TSB about toe for the front tires. If the total toe isn't set accordingly it'll eat through the tires in 8k miles. This happened to me a couple months back after an alignment, the service writer insisted the exacting of the toe was not necessary. Free set of tires after 8k miles thanks to that... it was all on the service writer at Firestone.
I will mention that I'm currently running the Z1 FUCA with the poly bushings. I'm not really a fan of this style since I've had issues with a couple of shops because the lock nuts for the ball joint. They tend to come loose over time and can cause clunking/swaying. Shops might charge extra since the control arm has to be removed in a "trial and error" manner to get the perfect adjustment. Compared to the SPC Upper Control arm, they can be adjusted on the car, and overall less work for the alignment tech.
Just caught this post, loosening of that jam nut happens when the installation instructions aren't followed. Z1 provides single-use bottles of Loctite 272 with those FUCA for exactly this reason. Personally I just use 242/243 and have never had an issue and I don't have to grab a torch to heat the loctite back into a liquid if I want to make adjustments.
