Im sorry I meant to put p0345.

 

Ahh that's better, well hopefully that's the end of your problems.

Next time you try the idle air recalibration take the car for a 15 minute drive to get the transmission up to temp. I didn't see the value on your sensors but the ATF sensor 1 needs to be fully warmed up.

 

Alright sounds good I'm putting in the Hitachi sensor tomorrow when it comes. Thanks again for helping me out.

 

So went to start this car this morning and it wouldn't start.. I pulled out the bafx reader. And here's the pic and results.. the p0011 and p0021 are reoccurring I had this code when I first bought the car and they were from A1 auto. I see the ecm code.. does this mean I'm screwed?

 

The car has to be FULLY warmed up for idle relearn to work. In your video, it's a cold start. Go drive around for 15 minutes then do the process again.

 

I'm aware now on how to do it. That's currently no longer my issue. The car cranks but doesn't start anymore. This is with the brand new oem hitachi sensors both cam and crank sensors. I also have a reoccurring vvt solenoid code that came back. I posted the picture above

 

Unplug your maf and see if it starts.
also check for blown fuses

 

It doesn't start

 

You will occasionally get the P1065 just from disconnecting the battery, it will probably clear itself or you can manually clear it.

You need to check that cam phase sensor HARNESS AND WIRING. Starting to think you have something wrong with the circuit since it's giving the same issue with two different sensors.

However, the one you are using is not an OEM sensor so... it might have just inconveniently died, you can try putting the Hitachi (the one that's probably factory defective) back in to see if the code will stay cleared even though it probably won't make the car run.

So the P0011/P0021 codes, you replaced the cam actuators yes? They're oil pressure driven so make sure you're not low on oil, that will DEFINITELY cause those cam actuator codes.

 

So yes I checked both cam sensor wiring harness they both have been spliced in with some ghetto house grey and orange twist on end caps. I took them off and put some real closed end crimps I also put some 3M high temp electrical tape just cause. Also the p0165 I'm almost sure it was because I kept disconnecting and reconnecting the battery to test each sensor I don't think I should have done that. Now as for the P0011/P0021 I did replace the vvt solenoids or cam actuator as you refer to them the first time I got the code and you hit the nail on the head about the low oil. I have a real bad leak underneath the engine. I have bought some Gasket maker and the nissan oil cooler gasket. The oil was stupid low on the dipstick.

 

Go over the whole harness of you already found one janky repair, high chance of there being more. Download a copy of the FSM to see the full path and what pins to test for continuity. Seems like you have some electrical issues, even the cheap sensors will get the car to run, just don't last long.

These cars burn oil, make it a habit of checking oil after every gas fill.

 

The oil should be checked weekly after sitting overnight when parked on level ground or after sitting for at least a 1/2 hour.
You will not get an accurate reading while getting gas. With my old 1940 Pontiac, 55 Chevy, and 58 Ford that was ok but not with an earlier Infiniti with their shytty dipstick

FWIW the OP might have been better off and had a greater success if the vehicle was first brought to the nearest Infiniti dealer, paid the diagnostic fee prior to just throwing questionable parts without knowing the root cause of the problem.
Just my $.02

 

Ah the man the myth the legend telcoman. I get what you're saying but I knew 100% what I was getting myself into this is a PROJECT car so I can learn the VQ motor. I am a 2jz guy at heart I am mechanically inclined. I simply come on here to get information from those of you who have it so I can learn myself I am aware of the stealerships tactics and nonsense also when I purchased the vehicle the previous owner told me of the issues so I had no reason to take it to the stealership to begin with.

 

You never mentioned a project car in your original post. You gave the impression of not being aware of the dipstick issue with early Infiniti's and the impression that you were just guessing, throwing parts at a problem that you had no clue of the root cause, and using non OEM parts that these vehicles do not work well.
When multiple mechanics have no clue, only a dealer consult tool is going to give you solid information.
Perhaps you think their time, training and the use of expensive diagnostic computerized tools is stealing but in this world you get what you pay for.
Use cheap untrained mechanics and you'll end up paying twice and perhaps eventually going to the dealer?
Sorry I even responded to original incomplete information in your original post.
Good luck with your project and I hope you don't waste too much money and time with it.

 

You can ignore the P0011/P0021 for now because those can be caused by faulty CMP sensor inputs. Basically fix your CMP sensor issues, and those should clear up.

You've thrown a lot of parts at this and have disconnected a lot of things. Go back over EVERYTHING. Make sure dumb things didn't happen like: intake boot folded under when sliding onto the throttle body, hose that goes from intake to back of valve cover isn't cracked or damaged (basically looking for vaccum leaks), all harness connectors are fully connected, make sure connectors for ignition coils 4 & 6 aren't flipped (super common mistake).

Since P0345 is bank 2, check all the wiring and connectors on the drivers side under the intake (I'd remove it and go over it all again). Check for blown fuses in the IPDM.

After all that, do a basic sensor relearn: ignition on (not started) for 5 seconds, off for 15 seconds, on for 5, off again. You should hear the throttle body open and close. Then try starting. Also make sure battery is fully charged.

As an outlier here, I had those CMP codes come up and it was due to my starter failing. Which is actually one of the causes listed in the FSM.
P0340/P0345 possible cause:
1) Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted) - you've found some poor wire repairs already, look for more...
2) Camshaft position sensor (PHASE) - you've replaced these twice already, look at other causes...
3) Camshaft (INT) - referring to damage to the intake camshaft end. You'll need a mirror or a little boroscope camera to check the end after removing the sensor. Looking for debris or damage of the signal plate on camshaft rear end.
4) Starter motor
5) Starting system circuit
6) Dead (weak) battery