You can order replacement cam sensor harnesses, sounds like you already have aftermarket ones if they're wire nutted on, replace them with new ones, I'm guessing something is wrong with the one throwing the code.

Look up "solder splice connectors" you CANNOT use wirenuts to make up the wiring on those cam sensors, it's never going to last, gotta be soldered together and those solder splice connectors are the easiest to use in tight spaces like that.

Like the others have said, gotta check oil level every week, always check on a cold engine before it's been started for the day.

 

Any update?

 

Yup basically I'm going to do the oil pan tomorrow morning redo the gasket then I will follow with testing each connector via fsm good thing I downloaded it.

 

Ok so Ive attached a fuel pressure gauge. Its doing something very weird when the key is turned to the ON position the gauge briefly shoots up then back down also when being revved it does not move at all.

 

Firstly, your low fuel pressure is likely a clogged strainer baggy on the pump itself. I strongly recommend pulling the pump and inspecting that filter/bag on the end of it.

If it does need replaced just swap it for a Wahlbro 255. It's a LOT cheaper than going with an OEM pump and it's a very proven solid unit. Here is a DIY on swapping over to the Wahlbro it's not difficult.

The directions for bleeding off fuel pressure aren't in the DIY, pull the fuel pump relay and run the engine until it stalls, then you don't need to worry about pressure in the line when you disconnect it

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ation-diy.html

I do strongly recommend buying the fuel pump grommet Nissan part number 17044-4M405 it's probably old and brittle and costs a few extra bucks.
If you damage your O-ring it's Nissan part number 17342-CE800

Z1 Motorsports offers the whole thing as a kit (pump, grommet, oring) for about $100, I went with this option when I replaced my pump last year and it's worked out perfectly.

EDIT: In the meantime you can just remove the filter strainer from the pump and see if the fuel pressure shoots back up, if not the pump is bad. If the strainer was clogged but the pump will deliver higher pressure then you can probably find just the strainer at a local parts house. They're basically just generic sizes, it doesn't need to be exactly the same shape just fit over the pump inlet.

Fuel pressure at idle should be 51psi.

 

It also looks like you have a pretty substantial exhaust leak, fix it.

 

Yes I will fix it along with the fuel pump. Thanks for the help cleric!

 

Also I just looked up the walbro 255 it says the fuel pressure it puts out is 81psi won't this be to much for my stock motor? One z1 employee said that its to much and the siphon jet needs to be drilled?

 

Weird, I didn't have that issue with mine and Z1 never told me anything about it.

Regardless you can pull and inspect the pump and try it without the strainer.

 

Ok nevermind YES I did modify mine, EDIT: Can't verify what sizes I used. I forgot, didn't follow directions from this site I edited out I'll try to find it later.

 

Ok sorry for the edits, friends are telling me I almost definitely used the .070 and 7/64 bits like what this website says.

http://www.christurnbull.com/projects/automotive/walbro-gss342-installation-350z-g35-fx35-etc/


​​​​​ESit: we did this in a parking lot one night when my pump died while on an out of town trip and a 350Z friend just happened to have a spare pump AND the drill bits laying in his trunk so...

 

Alright thanks for the write up. I already ordered mine so it will be here Friday I will follow the instructions as mentioned.

 

Also I have the 7/64 bit but I'm having trouble finding a .700 drill bit. Is it 0.70 drill bit or .700?

 

Same number, the extra zero is redundant

EDIT: You need a .070 bit, not a .700 bit.

 

There is no mathematical difference between .70 and .700 or even .70000. But that's like almost 3/4" drill bit. I think you're looking for a .070 bit or 5/64" (.078).

What are you trying to fix here anyway? Still seems like you're just throwing parts at this car and hoping for the best. Yes, fuel pressure should be 51 psi, not the 40ish shown in your video. But these cars are a returnless system, the FPR isn't connected to vacuum, so it's not going to move as you rev the engine in your driveway. Cleric has a habit of over explaining/over engineering things without going into possible root causes (love you man!), so jumping into an upgraded fuel pump may not be the proper fix. It may even cause more issues for you. A new pump may be needed in the end, but there's some other items that could be the cause that are simpler fixes. I'm also going to go against Cleric here and recommend you go with an OE replacement pump (Hitachi brand) for the most trouble-free installation.

Crappy wiring (which your car seems to have in general) can cause low voltage to be received at the fuel pump. This would cause a lower fuel pressure. You should at least verify the fuel pump sees 12V or ~14V with engine running. Also something stupid, like the rubber grommet around the output of the fuel pump could be cracked and "leaking" fuel. https://www.z1motorsports.com/fuel-p...et-p-8376.html