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Hey guys I’ve had quite the frustrating week so I’ve decided to come here and ask for your opinions before I spend anymore of my time and money in this 2003 5AT g35.
So the story goes last week I was driving home from work I noticed as I was pulling into my driveway I lost all throttle response and got a check engine light, I figured it was the accelerator pedal sensor so the next morning I scanned and sure enough that’s what it was telling me. I went to junkyard and pulled a sensor off a 2005 Automatic sedan and slipped it into my car. I tried to start her up and my battery died from what I’m assuming was leaving my scanner in for too long. I charged the battery and when I put my keys in my ignition I noticed my check engine light was gone but all of my other lights came on, VDC off, BRAKES, Slip, battery and oil. I tried starting her up and nothing, the engine turns but no start up, which didn’t make sense if I was able to start it up the night before with the bad sensor. So I just bit the bullet and bought a brand new aftermarket sensor and I was getting the same results. It only gets worse from here, I tried to scan again, and my scanner wasn’t picking up any codes, it’d just give me an error message. I then noticed that when my keys were in the “ON” position in my ignition my fuel pump wasn’t priming and my fans would come on so I checked my fuses and assumed it was the pump itself. Next day I go out to find that someone broke into my car and stole my scanner so I can’t scan for codes atm, anyways, I replaced the pump today and still nothing, no priming, just fans and engine turns. I’d really appreciate any feedback and thoughts on my situation.
Is the NATS/IVIS security indicator LED next to the dash solid red while you're cranking the engine?
EXACTLY what code did it throw initially?
Does your tach move while cranking the engine?
Sorry for the VERY late reply but yes the LED is stays solid red while I’m cranking the engine. The initial code I got was p1229. And no my tach doesn’t move while I’m cranking the engine.
NATS LED solid red usually means the car doesn't recognize your key and therefor no spark no fuel. Typically fixed by having the car reprogrammed to accept your key, every once in a while, especially when disconnecting the battery, the car with have a heart attack and forget the key transponder RFID code.
As for the code, lots of things can potentially throw in YES EVEN THE REFRIGERANT PRESSURE SENSOR, check all that wiring for any damage.
NATS LED solid red usually means the car doesn't recognize your key and therefor no spark no fuel. Typically fixed by having the car reprogrammed to accept your key, every once in a while, especially when disconnecting the battery, the car with have a heart attack and forget the key transponder RFID code.
As for the code, lots of things can potentially throw in YES EVEN THE REFRIGERANT PRESSURE SENSOR, check all that wiring for any damage.
Okay I’ll definitely check all of the wiring you mentioned. As for reprogramming the car to accept my key how do I go about that? Everywhere I’ve read so far people say they take it to the dealership, is there a way I can do it myself?
Dealership or call around to see if any local locksmiths can come to you and program, those are the two most common ways.
It is possible to do it yourself with a laptop, Nissan Datascan 2 (paid pc version not the android version), VAG cable, then you need to decode your BCM using a tool like mentioned in this post.
Dealership or call around to see if any local locksmiths can come to you and program, those are the two most common ways.
It is possible to do it yourself with a laptop, Nissan Datascan 2 (paid pc version not the android version), VAG cable, then you need to decode your BCM using a tool like mentioned in this post.
Cheaper than paying a locksmith but you might not have the necessary pc or vag cable.
Okay well I was finally able to find the time to get a locksmith who knew what I was talking about and came to me. No luck. However This guy actually had a mechanics diagnostic tool and helped me out and gave me the u1000 code. Not sure where to go from here now.
The locksmith said he couldn’t connect to my car and that’s why he brought out his diagnostic tool and then gave me the u1000 code. He told me that’s why he couldn’t get a connection.
U1000 is a general CANBUS communication error, typically happens when something is disconnected and not talking to the ECM.
Section LAN - Local Area Network in the FSM, diagrams all start around page 20 I think, start with testing continuity from the ECM to BCM to IPDM, those are the only 3 modules needed to actually start the car.
