Sorry if I’m posting in the wrong place this is my first time on the forum. I just picked up a 2006 g35x with 220k kms on it I don’t really know anything about the car I won it from a auction for $1600 there wasn’t much info it just said it runs and drives but has a mechanical issue. I went and picked it up today I checked the fluids before I started it up everything was good except the coolant was low and I had a 1/4 gallon with me so I put that in the rad but that wasn’t enough to fill it I could just barely see the coolant at the bottom of the neck of the rad but I figured that was enough and my place is only 10 minutes from the auction lot so I started it up it fired right up I let it run for 10-15 minutes and the gauge was steady at half but once I started driving it was fluctuating between half and almost full, it seemed like it would go up when I was giving it gas then go down when I let off/ came to a stop it never went to full and the car seemed to be running good so I kept going but a couple minutes from home I thought I could smell coolant so I went to stop at a gas station and it stalled as I was pulling in but it started right back up so I parked it then I got out and noticed it was hissing/spraying coolant from the front passenger side by the bumper so I shut it off and now it’s currently cooling off then I plan on filling the coolant back up and driving it the rest of the way home to look into it further,
Anyone ever have this issue? Any ideas why the temp would fluctuate like that and why it overheated? Any advice would be appreciated. Could the coolant being a little low have caused my issues?
Yes low coolant will cause an overheat, so will not holding pressure (rent a pressure tester from the local parts house and check the closed system AND the cap), another common culprit is the fan control relays, the fans should be on HIGH SPEED when the engine is anything over the middle mark on the gauge, if it's not HIGH SPEED (there are two speeds, low and high, high makes a lot more noise) then it might be the relays (3 relays in the IPDM fuse box) or it might be the fan motors themselves failing.
For the rest of the drive home keep your heater on high to help pull heat out of the system and watch that gauge like a hawk or it's going to cost you another motor.
Since the radiator was low it's probably puked out coolant before so hopefully the HG's are still intact.
Yes low coolant will cause an overheat, so will not holding pressure (rent a pressure tester from the local parts house and check the closed system AND the cap), another common culprit is the fan control relays, the fans should be on HIGH SPEED when the engine is anything over the middle mark on the gauge, if it's not HIGH SPEED (there are two speeds, low and high, high makes a lot more noise) then it might be the relays (3 relays in the IPDM fuse box) or it might be the fan motors themselves failing.
For the rest of the drive home keep your heater on high to help pull heat out of the system and watch that gauge like a hawk or it's going to cost you another motor.
Since the radiator was low it's probably puked out coolant before so hopefully the HG's are still intact.
By HG’s do you mean head gaskets? I hope not. My friend said it could be the head gaskets but then wouldn’t the car not run good and wouldn’t it smoke out the tailpipe? It drove good and no smoke out the exhaust.
I think I found the culprit, this hose had a hose clamp way over tightened on one end and it caused the hose to rip and it was barely held together I gave it a lil tug and it ripped apart. Can anyone tell me what this hose is called so I can order a new one? The hose was too short to put back on so I used a coupler and another piece of hose and some clamps to put it back together so it won’t leak but now the angles not right and the hose is a little pinched as you can see in my photo but I think it’s good enough to get home.
So the replacement hose finally arrived yesterday so I put it on and filled and bled the cooling system and let it warm up for a while then I took it for a drive and it didn’t overheat the temp gauge stayed right at half and it ran good but I found another issue, I didn’t notice it the first time I drove the car but I only went about 30 km/h that time well yesterday I went about 50-60 and at about 50 I noticed a vibration from the front driver side wheel area I didn’t go much faster then 60 cause it seemed like the more I sped up the more it vibrated. Any ideas anyone? I’m thinking maybe the wheel bearing or the cv axle but if it was the cv axle then it would make a clicking noise while I turn wouldnt it? All it does it vibrate starting around 50 km/h and seems like it gets worse as speed increases
I don’t want to spend any money if I don’t need to. Isn’t there a way to test if the tires are unbalanced? I rotated the front tires and the vibration is still on the front driver side, also while I had the wheels off the ground I tried to wiggle them but there’s no up/down play so I think the wheel bearings are good. With the wheels off I spun the hubs by hand and they were a little hard to turn and it made a little bit of a scraping noise on both sides it sounded like it was coming from the brakes not sure if that’s normal or not. It doesn’t seem like the brakes are scraping while I drive, the brakes seemed to work good. Any suggestions appreciated
I seem to remember that brake caliper slide pins sticking can cause a vibration. Might be a cheap place to start since it only requires a little bottle of lube for the pins. Also explains the squeaking if the calipers are sticking it's dragging the pad on the rotor.
I seem to remember that brake caliper slide pins sticking can cause a vibration. Might be a cheap place to start since it only requires a little bottle of lube for the pins. Also explains the squeaking if the calipers are sticking it's dragging the pad on the rotor.
Thanks for the advice but I checked them out and they seem good, and no squeaking just a vibration/shuddering feeling from the front driver side wheel area that comes on at 50 km/h