pop or thunk when quickly tirn steering wheel to left
pop or thunk when quickly tirn steering wheel to left
Hi, my sons 04 coupe with sport package we had replaced about everything in front end about 2,500 miles back. We did the upper and lower ball joints, control, arms, end links, kyb shocks, tires etc. Today while driving he said he heard a noise when he turned left at low speeds. I just drove it and it drives perfect down the road but when going real slow and you yank the steering wheel left real fast I hear a pop or clunk and can feel it in car. I looked under it and all the arms etc and shock mounts all seem tight. I thought maybe the end link was lose (we had that happen already and were hearing a noise at low speeds over bumps), but seems fine. I opened hood and had him turn wheel real fast just a little bit while wheel was all the way to left side. I could hear a noise that seemed to be coming from the steering rod and possibly the knuckle that is on the end of the rod (not sure of the names). Anyone know what that may be?
When you did the tie rod end links (the ones that attach the rack and pinion to the steering knuckle) did you replace both the INNER and outer links or did you do just the outer ones?
Should be able to get the car up on jackstands and have someone shake the steering wheel left/right to isolate the source of the clunk.
Should be able to get the car up on jackstands and have someone shake the steering wheel left/right to isolate the source of the clunk.
Hmmm, I am not sure, I know I replaced the end links that you can see easily when the wheel is turned and they connect to the control arms, I assume that is the outers? So there is another end link that attaches to the knuckle?
I need to grab my receipts out of car when son gets home to see, but here is list of parts I did replace, but I think there were a few more from another source:
KYB 341367 Strut $ 78.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 78.79 KYB 341366 Strut $ 78.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 78.79 KYB SB103 Strut Bellow $ 11.08 $ 0.00 2 $ 22.16 MOOG RK621936 Control Arm $ 44.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 44.79 MOOG RK621690 Control Arm $ 44.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 44.79 MOOG RK641595 Control Arm $ 52.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 52.79 MOOG RK641594 Control Arm $ 52.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 52.79 MOOG RK621373 Control Arm $ 56.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 56.79 MOOG RK621372 Control Arm $ 56.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 56.79 MOOG K160105 Strut Mount $ 30.79
I need to grab my receipts out of car when son gets home to see, but here is list of parts I did replace, but I think there were a few more from another source:
KYB 341367 Strut $ 78.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 78.79 KYB 341366 Strut $ 78.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 78.79 KYB SB103 Strut Bellow $ 11.08 $ 0.00 2 $ 22.16 MOOG RK621936 Control Arm $ 44.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 44.79 MOOG RK621690 Control Arm $ 44.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 44.79 MOOG RK641595 Control Arm $ 52.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 52.79 MOOG RK641594 Control Arm $ 52.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 52.79 MOOG RK621373 Control Arm $ 56.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 56.79 MOOG RK621372 Control Arm $ 56.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 56.79 MOOG K160105 Strut Mount $ 30.79
Ok I checked our records and I know we changed upper and lower control arms and ball joints. I believe we changed the tie rod end links as well, but I think that is different than what you are talking about? Sounds like there is a inner and outer "tie rod" itself and not the links?
If so how hard are they to change out, time wise etc?
Thanks!!
If so how hard are they to change out, time wise etc?
Thanks!!
Trending Topics
When you say "end links" I'm betting what you changed were the SWAY BAR end links.
Very good chance your tie rod ends are still stock. They're never called "tie rod end links" they're called "inner / outer tie rod ends".
Very good chance your tie rod ends are still stock. They're never called "tie rod end links" they're called "inner / outer tie rod ends".
Yeah it's really straightforward, just count the number of turns it takes to remove the existing components, that way the toe will be pretty closes to where you need it.
You WILL need to have the car alignment corrected though.
The outer rod end will usually need a puller and a small sledgehammer, get the puller nice and tight then hammer on the side of the steering knuckle. Don't hammer on the threads of the existing rod end even with the nut on it, hammer the side of the steering knuckle.
This guy hammers at the correct spot on whatever car he's working on, I don't really recommend using the jack to put pressure on the tie rod end though, the correct tool works better. Most of the time I don't even need to use the puller though, a few good whacks on the steering knuckle with a mini sledge and they pop right out.
You WILL need to have the car alignment corrected though.
The outer rod end will usually need a puller and a small sledgehammer, get the puller nice and tight then hammer on the side of the steering knuckle. Don't hammer on the threads of the existing rod end even with the nut on it, hammer the side of the steering knuckle.
This guy hammers at the correct spot on whatever car he's working on, I don't really recommend using the jack to put pressure on the tie rod end though, the correct tool works better. Most of the time I don't even need to use the puller though, a few good whacks on the steering knuckle with a mini sledge and they pop right out.
Check the rack mount bolts as well.
Make sure the rack is not shifting.
Also check the steering column bolts while you are under there. If those are a bit loose the steering wheel can find a home, appear to be tight, and it will still loose.
My guess is the rack mount bolts.
Make sure the rack is not shifting.
Also check the steering column bolts while you are under there. If those are a bit loose the steering wheel can find a home, appear to be tight, and it will still loose.
My guess is the rack mount bolts.
Last edited by shurur; Jun 22, 2021 at 03:39 PM.
Thank you, it steers super tight, no movement in wheel while driving straight or turning, except that noise that just appeared when turning wheel hard to left, not a gradual turn, but when you jerk wheel back and forth you hear it, and feel it. Are those rack mount bolts something I need to replace? Easy to do?
Thank you, it steers super tight, no movement in wheel while driving straight or turning, except that noise that just appeared when turning wheel hard to left, not a gradual turn, but when you jerk wheel back and forth you hear it, and feel it. Are those rack mount bolts something I need to replace? Easy to do?
What you describe was what I have experienced on my mustang. I did everything else..until I found it was the rack mount bolts.
While you are under there check the steering column coupling bolts that go to the rack steering as well...make sure they are snugged up...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mpapers
Brakes & Suspension
1
Sep 25, 2009 01:31 AM










