I have a 2005 coupe. I’m not lowering it much. I purchased the Nismo S-Tune so the drop is what… half an inch? I’ve never lowered a car before so i’m wondering what other Nismo pieces should i get after i put the S-Tune on?
Wouldn’t i need some type of front upper camber arm or rear traction arm? Rear camber links?
I’ve never messed with any of this stuff before and i always hear that if you lower your car you can wear out things or damage things faster.
Wouldn’t i need some type of front upper camber arm or rear traction arm? Rear camber links?
I’ve never messed with any of this stuff before and i always hear that if you lower your car you can wear out things or damage things faster.
Quote:
Wouldn’t i need some type of front upper camber arm or rear traction arm? Rear camber links?
I’ve never messed with any of this stuff before and i always hear that if you lower your car you can wear out things or damage things faster.
Not really, with such a mild drop the only thing you need to do is get an alignment. The reason for the links is to get the alignment back into spec since they have more adjustability than the stock components. Reality is that you probably want a little more front and rear camber on these cars for better handling, so if you end up with a bit more camber its not a big deal. As long as you can get toe front and back into spec.Originally Posted by Zeromaz
I have a 2005 coupe. I’m not lowering it much. I purchased the Nismo S-Tune so the drop is what… half an inch? I’ve never lowered a car before so i’m wondering what other Nismo pieces should i get after i put the S-Tune on?Wouldn’t i need some type of front upper camber arm or rear traction arm? Rear camber links?
I’ve never messed with any of this stuff before and i always hear that if you lower your car you can wear out things or damage things faster.
Get an alignment and come back and post your alignment results, then we can offer some input.
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The more u lower the car, the more negative camber your wheels will have. If its excessive and u wanna straighten it back out then u will need a camber kit.
But a half inch drop shouldnt make too much difference. U might even be able to adjust the camber back out with the original arms. On my car I dropped it about 2 inches so my camber was way past my original adjustment limits. So I had to get aftermarket camber arms with more range.
But a half inch drop shouldnt make too much difference. U might even be able to adjust the camber back out with the original arms. On my car I dropped it about 2 inches so my camber was way past my original adjustment limits. So I had to get aftermarket camber arms with more range.
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You’ll want toe bolts - from SPC or equivalent to adjust rear toe.
front toe is adjusted via outer tie rod ball joints being spun and will be out of Spec after lowering.
front and rear camber is non adjustable from the factory. You’ll want front arms like Z1 or Kinetix on a budget and the eBay brands are fine for the rear. Pretty much all of those kits mentioned offer 1* of positive camber. You don’t NEED front arms but would be silly not to buy the rears with how cheap they are.
front toe is adjusted via outer tie rod ball joints being spun and will be out of Spec after lowering.
front and rear camber is non adjustable from the factory. You’ll want front arms like Z1 or Kinetix on a budget and the eBay brands are fine for the rear. Pretty much all of those kits mentioned offer 1* of positive camber. You don’t NEED front arms but would be silly not to buy the rears with how cheap they are.
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front toe is adjusted via outer tie rod ball joints being spun and will be out of Spec after lowering.
front and rear camber is non adjustable from the factory. You’ll want front arms like Z1 or Kinetix on a budget and the eBay brands are fine for the rear. Pretty much all of those kits mentioned offer 1* of positive camber. You don’t NEED front arms but would be silly not to buy the rears with how cheap they are.
Actually now that you mention it and I gave it some thought, I think you are right. BOTH rear and front camber are not adjustable, for some reason I had it in my head that rear camber was adjustable. Only front and rear toe is adjustable to a small degree.Originally Posted by Urbanengineer
You’ll want toe bolts - from SPC or equivalent to adjust rear toe.front toe is adjusted via outer tie rod ball joints being spun and will be out of Spec after lowering.
front and rear camber is non adjustable from the factory. You’ll want front arms like Z1 or Kinetix on a budget and the eBay brands are fine for the rear. Pretty much all of those kits mentioned offer 1* of positive camber. You don’t NEED front arms but would be silly not to buy the rears with how cheap they are.
So yea I second that, def buy rear camber arms, but for now skip the front camber arms.
My personal recommendation are any of the solutions that provide a nice rubber cover around the joint:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...321453d673e540
https://conceptzperformance.com/cusc...4-e_p_5392.php
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The S-Tune dropped my coupe almost exactly 1 inch, I ended up selling it and going with the revised 350Z springs and those only drop the coupe 1/2".
On the S-tune I used the Z1 Motorsports front and rear camber kit with SPC rear toe bolts, I was pretty much maxed on front adjustment with -1.5 degree camber, rear had a little bit of extra room to work with at -1 degree camber.
Mostly you need to decide what you want your camber to be, that's going to determine if you need more/less adjustment in the camber kit.
On the S-tune I used the Z1 Motorsports front and rear camber kit with SPC rear toe bolts, I was pretty much maxed on front adjustment with -1.5 degree camber, rear had a little bit of extra room to work with at -1 degree camber.
Mostly you need to decide what you want your camber to be, that's going to determine if you need more/less adjustment in the camber kit.







