5,000+ Rpm clutch
Did I really need to ask for specifics? 
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Joined: May 2005
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From: MN, western subs
Originally Posted by GT-Ron
I've had a '79 Datsun 280Z (in '83), a '91 Mustang GT (bought new) and a '97 Mitsubishi GSX (bought new), all of which were manual and none of which had a chattering clutch or noisy TO bearing as part of their design. When saying this is normal, it's best to qualify that statement by saying this is normal for the G35. It would certainly decrease some of the bickering back and forth.
Likewise, normal for a light-weight flywheel or racing clutch can hardly be considered the norm among production cars with the OEM clutch assemblies. But that doesn't mean that it's not [/I]normal for the G35[I].
I'd still love to hear from people who have decided to chunk the OEM clutch bits in favor of aftermarket assemblies. Did it cure the problem? I'd find it hard to believe that the problem couldn't be fixed by replacing the offending part(s) with something better or more suitable. I'd like to try to isolate the problem parts and start working on a solution (if one is available) instead of living with the problem and complaining about it.
Likewise, normal for a light-weight flywheel or racing clutch can hardly be considered the norm among production cars with the OEM clutch assemblies. But that doesn't mean that it's not [/I]normal for the G35[I].
I'd still love to hear from people who have decided to chunk the OEM clutch bits in favor of aftermarket assemblies. Did it cure the problem? I'd find it hard to believe that the problem couldn't be fixed by replacing the offending part(s) with something better or more suitable. I'd like to try to isolate the problem parts and start working on a solution (if one is available) instead of living with the problem and complaining about it.
The clutch disengagement should be smooth, tho. No excuse nissan. 5 years ago I left a 3 year job that put me thru college. Working at a new/used car dealership, drove countless new and used cars to and from body shops, gas station, etc. I have never witnessed this howl from any clutch. Sure some clutches from the ghay smaller cars may blow and feel akward, but not this bad TO bearing sound. If this characteristic is an attribute of a high performance clutch, I don't like it. Give me an 04 clutch any day if that would solve it.
The whole OEM "performance clutch" theory just doesn't justify it, IMO. There are many other cars producing nearly the same or more HP & TQ that have a higher quality operation than the description given of the G's.
Sure, with an aftermarket street/strip clutch and light-weight flywheel you expect some of these noises, but those items sacrifice nearly everything for better performance. Nissan clearly didn't sacrifice a whole lot to improve performance, so why would you expect them to slap in a race-ready clutch and flywheel that's going to result in terrible noises that will alarm most owners?
It's not as if the OEM flywheel is a feather-weight, nor is the clutch even remotely a street-strip clutch. It's just a bad design, OR the cost to reduce/eliminate the noise was not cost-effective until more units sold. It happens... ...hence the position often taken by mechanics who will chalk non-serious, common problems like this up as being normal for that car.
I'd just as well prefer to fix the F'n problem than rely on OEM replacement parts and getting it covered under warranty. The problem is documented pretty good and I have yet to see many people get a lasting fix via OEM parts. Which makes sense. If you're Nissan, wouldn't you try to get rid of existing stock first, in hopes that it would fix the problem for some people?
I should never need a clutch replacement resulting from too much power (with my current plans), so such a replacement would only be to improve the qaulity of the drive.
Sure, with an aftermarket street/strip clutch and light-weight flywheel you expect some of these noises, but those items sacrifice nearly everything for better performance. Nissan clearly didn't sacrifice a whole lot to improve performance, so why would you expect them to slap in a race-ready clutch and flywheel that's going to result in terrible noises that will alarm most owners?
It's not as if the OEM flywheel is a feather-weight, nor is the clutch even remotely a street-strip clutch. It's just a bad design, OR the cost to reduce/eliminate the noise was not cost-effective until more units sold. It happens... ...hence the position often taken by mechanics who will chalk non-serious, common problems like this up as being normal for that car.
I'd just as well prefer to fix the F'n problem than rely on OEM replacement parts and getting it covered under warranty. The problem is documented pretty good and I have yet to see many people get a lasting fix via OEM parts. Which makes sense. If you're Nissan, wouldn't you try to get rid of existing stock first, in hopes that it would fix the problem for some people?
I should never need a clutch replacement resulting from too much power (with my current plans), so such a replacement would only be to improve the qaulity of the drive.
Registered User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
From: MN, western subs
Originally Posted by GT-Ron
The whole OEM "performance clutch" theory just doesn't justify it, IMO. There are many other cars producing nearly the same or more HP & TQ that have a higher quality operation than the description given of the G's.
Sure, with an aftermarket street/strip clutch and light-weight flywheel you expect some of these noises, but those items sacrifice nearly everything for better performance. Nissan clearly didn't sacrifice a whole lot to improve performance, so why would you expect them to slap in a race-ready clutch and flywheel that's going to result in terrible noises that will alarm most owners?
It's not as if the OEM flywheel is a feather-weight, nor is the clutch even remotely a street-strip clutch. It's just a bad design, OR the cost to reduce/eliminate the noise was not cost-effective until more units sold. It happens... ...hence the position often taken by mechanics who will chalk non-serious, common problems like this up as being normal for that car.
I'd just as well prefer to fix the F'n problem than rely on OEM replacement parts and getting it covered under warranty. The problem is documented pretty good and I have yet to see many people get a lasting fix via OEM parts. Which makes sense. If you're Nissan, wouldn't you try to get rid of existing stock first, in hopes that it would fix the problem for some people?
I should never need a clutch replacement resulting from too much power (with my current plans), so such a replacement would only be to improve the qaulity of the drive.
Sure, with an aftermarket street/strip clutch and light-weight flywheel you expect some of these noises, but those items sacrifice nearly everything for better performance. Nissan clearly didn't sacrifice a whole lot to improve performance, so why would you expect them to slap in a race-ready clutch and flywheel that's going to result in terrible noises that will alarm most owners?
It's not as if the OEM flywheel is a feather-weight, nor is the clutch even remotely a street-strip clutch. It's just a bad design, OR the cost to reduce/eliminate the noise was not cost-effective until more units sold. It happens... ...hence the position often taken by mechanics who will chalk non-serious, common problems like this up as being normal for that car.
I'd just as well prefer to fix the F'n problem than rely on OEM replacement parts and getting it covered under warranty. The problem is documented pretty good and I have yet to see many people get a lasting fix via OEM parts. Which makes sense. If you're Nissan, wouldn't you try to get rid of existing stock first, in hopes that it would fix the problem for some people?
I should never need a clutch replacement resulting from too much power (with my current plans), so such a replacement would only be to improve the qaulity of the drive.
First off, find the source of the "howl". Is it derived from the clutch pedal system itself, feedback from the bad clutch? The engine is sooo isolated it's hard to believe the clutch creates noise that eminates from the engine to the car. Perhaps feedback through the hydraulics of the clutch then to the car being all the clutch components are hard mounted. The 5MT IS300 has a dampener built into the hydraulic line to help eliminate vibration and "soften" the clutch engagement. People have removed it which quickens the engagement but with the trade-off of some vibration in the clutch system. Any thoughts?
Rob
Last edited by csdstudio; Jun 1, 2005 at 07:51 PM.
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From: Seattle, WA
Clutch Noise
I posted on this right after I took delivery. I've now got about 2500 miles on it and I've been back to the dealer twice; the first time the tech told me it was exhaust noise and I told him to forget it. I went back on the weekend and drove another new coupe, but got much less noise when shifting. The second trip, I went out with the Service Manager. He drove the car and acknowledged the noise immediately. He explained the clutch dampener to me but promised to drive another car for comparison. When I went to pick the car up, they told me he had driven another car but it made less noise. They documented the issue and asked me to drive it until my first oil change (probably 8/1) and see if it goes away. I still get grinding between 1-2 and 2-3. Oh, the ride quality with the 19" wheels sucks.
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