okay, i'm 100 more miles til the break-in period is done. can someone tell me what i should do now? i need details because i don't want to do anything wrong... thanks!

<font color=blue>Watch out guys... here I come!!!</font color=blue>
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by gsedanman on 06/22/03 04:28 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

when u hit ur 100th mile, make a complete stop, then floor it in 1st, do a big azz burnout and donut and then smoke the first car u see

hometown.aol.com/v35skylinepnoy
Sactown Cali

 

sorry .... no

I believe it is
complete stop
floor it in 1st
do a donut
then a big azzz burnout
then smoke cars

sorry to be a stickler



call service for a oil change if you havn't already ... get it done and thats it ... drive like a wacky pina

 

hahahaha nah dont do what calipnoy said.....lol

take it to the dealer and get an oil change, preferably synthetic, should cost around $20, but if you bring your own oil and filter it should cost you like $35-40 overall

<font color=green>-Rambo</font color=green>
G35c 6MT DG/Willow

 

Is it really nesccesary to get an oil change at 1200 miles?

 

better safe than sorry
during break-in, you will get some small metal pieces in the oil pan, the sooner you drain those out, the better

<font color=green>-Rambo</font color=green>
G35c 6MT DG/Willow

 

has anybody changed it their selves, i started to and stopped its too much work on this car you ahveto take off all this plastic to get to that oil filter.

-moooooo

 

It is not *necessary* to change the oil until 7500mi, under the non-severe maintanence schedule. The engine (and the mechanic) would love you if you changed it every 100mi (one hundred), but that's just a waste.

Both are extremes. There's some good in the industry standard of 3,000mi changes, but then it also benefits the mechanics and oil companies if you keep changing that often, so I'm not entirely sure where the best spot is. Then there's the whole synthetic v. mineral oil debate to throw in. As for changing right after break-in, there are many believers in that, though I'm not one of them -- I waited until 3750.

Do your own research and figure out what you're comfortable with.

2003.5 G35 Sedan Desert Platinum/Graphite Premium/Sport/Aero/Nav/Winter

 

i meant what should i do about the whole unplugging the battery thing... i need to know step-by-step processes.

<font color=blue>Watch out guys... here I come!!!</font color=blue>

 

You don't have to disconnect the batt unless you want to. It just zeros the learning algo of the ECU and TCU. If you don't drive aggressively from that point on, the computer will just relearn soft shifting again.
Give it a try, you may like the difference it makes.
Using a 10mm wrench, carefully loosen and disconnect the NEGATIVE batt terminal and leave it overnight. (12 hrs) b4 reconnecting. Be sure to tuck it down out of the way so it doesn't sneak back and touch the terminal. I do it for 12 hrs. Some peeps just do it 3 hrs and pump the brake a few times to dissipate the resudual power.
Bare in mind with no power, the windows won't work (or anything for that matter), so put them down b4 you start.
G/L gal.

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>