I've been driving stick for 6+ years. I don't roll back when I release. Just when I go forward it just keeps sliding forward. Maybe my garage cement floor is to slippery. Gotta wait till one of my buddy's can help me out and watch out for me. Gotta learn the distance of when to stop.

 

Lay a piece of carpet under the ramps, with some of the carpet sticking out past the front lips of the ramps. The carpet give some traction to the ramps so they don't slip forward. The carpet sticking past the front of the ramps will help hold the carpet in place once the tires is on top of them.

 

That is strange, by sticking my head out the window in my AT coupe I have no problem knowing when to stop on the Rhinos. Also, the lip on the end of them is pretty hard to get over unless you gunning it completely. I would hate to think what would happen if you completely drove off them...but I do think that would be difficult if you are paying attention.

I found that using my left on the brake and right foot on the gas I have no problems starting again on the incline. If I gas it hard in the beginning I did cause them to slip a tiny bit. The ramps are really nice and sturdy though.

Danation.com - G35C CB/GR/NAV/PREM

 

Just bought a pair of Rhino ramps from Autozone. The front spoiler of my '03 coupe definitely does not clear the ramp and will drag. 18" wheels.

 

yeah, i checked a pair of the rhinos my friend had. No way. My coupe would have clearly hit them on the painted part of thr front bumper if i tried to pull up on em.

I am going to go with the yellow metal ramps and extenders from griotsgarage.com.



6MT coupe, red/willow, premium, aero

 

Both Kragen and Pep Boys have the Rhino Ramps on sale this week(throught the 16th) for $19.99

$40-50 for a dealer oil change just ain't gonna happen. I used to get my oil changed on my old car for $13.50 total included tax and disposal fee....it wasn't worth it for me to mess with it at that cost. But the cost for all parts(Ramps, filter wrench, oil pan, funnel, 10 & 14 mm wrench) was less than $50. One time cost and each change should cost maybe less than 20 for synthetic and filter. Well worth it to save $20-30 a pop and it takes less time as well.

 

That was exactly what I thought sternroolz!

Even though I am moving and it would be foolish to pack my rhins away in the G, I will donate tham to my roommates and it is still a better deal. Plus, I know that things will be done the way I want.

It is strange to me to think that a couple of people are saying that their cars scrape on the rhinos. I had no trouble at all. I have an AT coupe on 17's. Maybe the 18's hit for some strange reason.

Danation.com - G35C CB/GR/NAV/PREM

 

My coupe with 18s clears the Rhinos fine. I had the slip problem on the garage floor too and put some 2x4s behind the ramps reaching the back of my garage. Thanks for the carpet tip, sounds much better.

I was on the fence about changing it myself and actually decided to go to Jiffy Lube - I had a $10 coupon and decided I had to let someone touch it sooner or later. But once I got there they wanted an extra $15 to remove the "30 bolts" covering the bottom access. I said never mind, bought the Rhinos, found my 10mm rachet to remove the bolts, and had no problems.

G35C/DG/Prem/Aero/Nav/Sat

 

My G 6MT w/ stock 18s clear the bumper fine. No scrapes or etc. It actually clears it by 1" inch. Kind of strange how some people with the G and 18s say they scrape. I don't see how unless you guys already changed suspension or really under inflated the tire PSI from stock PSI.

marks_g35: Ya I was actually thinking of putting some 2x4 blocks behind the ramps so it wouldnt slide. Either that or like a sand bag or something heavy.

TX_G35: The carpet idea sounds like it might work. I got a pair of old car carpets any way. I'll give that a try next time.

Aquinas: "That is strange, by sticking my head out the window in my AT coupe I have no problem knowing when to stop on the Rhinos"

Difference is you have a AT. If you drove MT you would know it would be very dangerous and almost impossible to stick your head out of the car while holding the clutch and applying gas. Moving the head out of the window should require moving the body which would make your foot holding the clutch release incorrectly (fast or to slow). Resulting in burning the clutch and or making the car die out. Sure would be nice if I could stick my head out also.