why is my 1/4 e.t. slow?
#1
why is my 1/4 e.t. slow?
i been readin that a lot of u are gettin in the 13's...6mt i kno are faster but by a whole second? track temp was 87 degrees, i used tip mode, left everything inside...how do u guys hit 13's? wats tha secret
hometown.aol.com/v35skylinepnoy
Sactown Cali
84330-scan3.jpg
hometown.aol.com/v35skylinepnoy
Sactown Cali
84330-scan3.jpg
#2
#3
Re: why is my 1/4 e.t. slow?
Humidity about 30%, light breeze, dunno if the track is considered fast but its in sacramento( in the valley, low elevation, dry heat)
I also have injen intake and 19" rims, so could those have adverse affects?
hometown.aol.com/v35skylinepnoy
Sactown Cali
I also have injen intake and 19" rims, so could those have adverse affects?
hometown.aol.com/v35skylinepnoy
Sactown Cali
#5
Re: why is my 1/4 e.t. slow?
Who's getting 13s? A stock 350Z-Track on a good day cracks 13.9. A 6MT G35, at 300 pounds heavier, should be approximately 0.3 seconds slower, so call 14.2 a very good run. Your numbers aren't far off my stock 5AT's without torque-braking, except that my trap speeds are much slower than yours. I averaged around 94.5, but had better times than you. I did have higher 1/8 mile speeds, strangely. I suspect the fact that I usually shift while in the box screws it up. I should probably just let it wind out a little over the redline.
Anyway, the main culprit on your slip is the 60' time ("I1"). The 350Z's that put up 13s have 60' times around 2.0, sometimes 1.9. You're giving up a good .37 seconds there, which would put you at at least 14.3 if you could do a 2.0 launch. The reason you're slow is because you're not dropping your clutch at high enough rpms, because you don't have a clutch. The closest you can approximate to this with an AT is holding down your brake with your left foot while pressing the gas with the right (called power-braking or torque-braking). As you might expect, this is NOT good for your transmission, but the end result is a much faster launch and quicker access to the G35's powerband. I experimented a couple times with trying to do this for only a split second before the light (to minimize the duration of the strain), but the car seizes up like it wants to vomit. A timeslip just isn't worth that to me.
Other than that, there are little race prep things you can do: turn off VDC, remove the engine cover, remove the spare, make sure all the stuff draining power is turned off, lower the pressure in the rear wheels and increase the pressure in the front wheels, only run on a one-quarter tank, etc. None of that is going to get you to 14.2. 14.6 is pretty much how fast a stock AT Coupe is if you're at a light, release the brake, and mash the gas. Best I ever did stock without torque-braking was 14.56. My best 60' is still a 2.31. That's the difference.
-Jack
Obsidian '03 G35 Sports Coupe
Titanium '03 MX-5 Shinsen #532
Anyway, the main culprit on your slip is the 60' time ("I1"). The 350Z's that put up 13s have 60' times around 2.0, sometimes 1.9. You're giving up a good .37 seconds there, which would put you at at least 14.3 if you could do a 2.0 launch. The reason you're slow is because you're not dropping your clutch at high enough rpms, because you don't have a clutch. The closest you can approximate to this with an AT is holding down your brake with your left foot while pressing the gas with the right (called power-braking or torque-braking). As you might expect, this is NOT good for your transmission, but the end result is a much faster launch and quicker access to the G35's powerband. I experimented a couple times with trying to do this for only a split second before the light (to minimize the duration of the strain), but the car seizes up like it wants to vomit. A timeslip just isn't worth that to me.
Other than that, there are little race prep things you can do: turn off VDC, remove the engine cover, remove the spare, make sure all the stuff draining power is turned off, lower the pressure in the rear wheels and increase the pressure in the front wheels, only run on a one-quarter tank, etc. None of that is going to get you to 14.2. 14.6 is pretty much how fast a stock AT Coupe is if you're at a light, release the brake, and mash the gas. Best I ever did stock without torque-braking was 14.56. My best 60' is still a 2.31. That's the difference.
-Jack
Obsidian '03 G35 Sports Coupe
Titanium '03 MX-5 Shinsen #532
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Re: why is my 1/4 e.t. slow?
makes your car 12 ounces lighter [img]/w3timages/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
doesnt do too much, its good if you are racing around a track where engine heat could be an issue
basically which the cover off, the engine should get a little more breathing room inside and cool it a few degrees.
<font color=green>-Rambo</font color=green>
G35c 6MT DG/Willow/HyperGround/BorlaExhaust
doesnt do too much, its good if you are racing around a track where engine heat could be an issue
basically which the cover off, the engine should get a little more breathing room inside and cool it a few degrees.
<font color=green>-Rambo</font color=green>
G35c 6MT DG/Willow/HyperGround/BorlaExhaust
#9
Re: why is my 1/4 e.t. slow?
thanx for the tips JDMan
Those of u who ran in the 13's can u post ur timeslips up? i kno theres ppl who did 13.8's @ 101mph, etc.
Lookin at my 3 timeslipz i can see wat ur sayin now bout the 60' time,prolly sucked coz i didnt let any air out of the tires (35psi) n i didnt do a burnout to warm em up..i did do a lil torque breakin but only like up to 3 rpm... i ran the entire 1/4 up to 3rd gear only so i was at redline at the end of 1/4...is that ideal to shift @ redline? @ max torque? or max hp?
hometown.aol.com/v35skylinepnoy
Sactown Cali
Those of u who ran in the 13's can u post ur timeslips up? i kno theres ppl who did 13.8's @ 101mph, etc.
Lookin at my 3 timeslipz i can see wat ur sayin now bout the 60' time,prolly sucked coz i didnt let any air out of the tires (35psi) n i didnt do a burnout to warm em up..i did do a lil torque breakin but only like up to 3 rpm... i ran the entire 1/4 up to 3rd gear only so i was at redline at the end of 1/4...is that ideal to shift @ redline? @ max torque? or max hp?
hometown.aol.com/v35skylinepnoy
Sactown Cali
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: why is my 1/4 e.t. slow?
If you have an automatic and want to brake torque make sure you only do it like 3 times in a row max at one time otherwise your tranny fluid will begin to really heat up and boil. The major source of failure with autos is heat not necessarily parts grinding together like in a manual.
I used to have an auto Subaru wrx (mistake) till I wrecked it. Anyway you can imagine auto with a low compression 4 banger engine with boost that doesn't kick in till 3000 rpm = one slow mo fo off the line so with an auto wrx brake torquing was a must. The secret to keeping your tranny alive is by getting yourself an auto tranny cooler and using syntheic auto tranny fluid. The synthetic fluid should withstand heat levels many times higher than regular fluid that coupled with the cooler should make brake torquing fairly safe to do on a semi regular basis.
If you want the same kinda performance off the line without brake torquing then you need to get an upgraded torque converter from an aftermarket maker like level 10 or Protorque. This will launch your car at a higher stall speed without standing on the gas just mash and go. Your car will launch at the higher rpm levels. When you do this mod if you also press down on the gas you'll be able to launch at an even higher rpm. Say you choose a 3000 rpm stall convertor you may launch w/brake torque at 4500 instead. The draw back to this is day to day drivability. It'll be slighly jerkier. There are other mods you can do such as valve body and line pressure mods to the auto that will sharpen and speed your shifts as well.
Upgraded torque convertors and valvebody jobs are major tranny jobs and you might not wanna do that on your new car but you definately should do the synthetic fluid/tranny cooler combo mod. No drawbacks to them either if done right. Just make sure the fluid is compatible with stock specs and cooler is fitted well with the car. I've heard that some folks in extreamly cold climates have their trannys not get into operating temps quick enough with a cooler like this since it works so well but that's the only drawback I can think of. Unless you live in a really cold place I wouldn't worry about it. You'll get more fluid volume capacity, increased cooling and performance, and probably better gas mileage. It's not hard to install either I think any shop can do it even a uhaul truck rental shop. They use those coolers all the time in trucks that have heavy loads to pull so you know the technology works.
I used to have an auto Subaru wrx (mistake) till I wrecked it. Anyway you can imagine auto with a low compression 4 banger engine with boost that doesn't kick in till 3000 rpm = one slow mo fo off the line so with an auto wrx brake torquing was a must. The secret to keeping your tranny alive is by getting yourself an auto tranny cooler and using syntheic auto tranny fluid. The synthetic fluid should withstand heat levels many times higher than regular fluid that coupled with the cooler should make brake torquing fairly safe to do on a semi regular basis.
If you want the same kinda performance off the line without brake torquing then you need to get an upgraded torque converter from an aftermarket maker like level 10 or Protorque. This will launch your car at a higher stall speed without standing on the gas just mash and go. Your car will launch at the higher rpm levels. When you do this mod if you also press down on the gas you'll be able to launch at an even higher rpm. Say you choose a 3000 rpm stall convertor you may launch w/brake torque at 4500 instead. The draw back to this is day to day drivability. It'll be slighly jerkier. There are other mods you can do such as valve body and line pressure mods to the auto that will sharpen and speed your shifts as well.
Upgraded torque convertors and valvebody jobs are major tranny jobs and you might not wanna do that on your new car but you definately should do the synthetic fluid/tranny cooler combo mod. No drawbacks to them either if done right. Just make sure the fluid is compatible with stock specs and cooler is fitted well with the car. I've heard that some folks in extreamly cold climates have their trannys not get into operating temps quick enough with a cooler like this since it works so well but that's the only drawback I can think of. Unless you live in a really cold place I wouldn't worry about it. You'll get more fluid volume capacity, increased cooling and performance, and probably better gas mileage. It's not hard to install either I think any shop can do it even a uhaul truck rental shop. They use those coolers all the time in trucks that have heavy loads to pull so you know the technology works.
#12
Re: why is my 1/4 e.t. slow?
My friend with a Z ran 13.9 on base package.. no mods and AT TOO... He has timeslips to prove it.
heres the secret:
Must run on a day with decent average weather. Remove spare tire and jack, deflate tires to roughly 25psi, and most important: GET A GOOD LAUNCH. Launch around 2200 RPM or so.. The launch will be the difference maker
GOOD LUCK on your next try :P
-Blk/Blk G35c
heres the secret:
Must run on a day with decent average weather. Remove spare tire and jack, deflate tires to roughly 25psi, and most important: GET A GOOD LAUNCH. Launch around 2200 RPM or so.. The launch will be the difference maker
GOOD LUCK on your next try :P
-Blk/Blk G35c
#14
Re: why is my 1/4 e.t. slow?
I wouldn't recommend a torque converter for a daily driver. Launching at every single intersection and stop sign has to get old. Nevermind sitting in stop and go traffic, or inching into a tight parking space. Are those things rigged so that they have a lower stall speed for Reverse?
I thought someone had dynoed a tiny bit better without the engine cover on. It's really just common sense. I mean, if you're going to spend $250 for a CAI that lowers your air intake point 6 inches because the air is "colder" down there, it's kind of silly to put a plastic enclosure around the plenum to make sure that all the heat is trapped around the location your "cold" air goes to just before detonation. It shouldn't make much difference in daily driving, but at a dragstrip there's a period of time when your car is just idling and creeping forward in the pre-stage area, and that's going to make a (small) difference as to what temperature your plenum is going to get off the line at. It's not going to shave a tenth of a second off or anything, but it can only help. Some people actually put a bag of ice on top of it while waiting. I'm not sure it does enough to offset the added weight from carrying a big bag of ice in the car.
-Jack
Obsidian '03 G35 Sports Coupe
Titanium '03 MX-5 Shinsen #532
I thought someone had dynoed a tiny bit better without the engine cover on. It's really just common sense. I mean, if you're going to spend $250 for a CAI that lowers your air intake point 6 inches because the air is "colder" down there, it's kind of silly to put a plastic enclosure around the plenum to make sure that all the heat is trapped around the location your "cold" air goes to just before detonation. It shouldn't make much difference in daily driving, but at a dragstrip there's a period of time when your car is just idling and creeping forward in the pre-stage area, and that's going to make a (small) difference as to what temperature your plenum is going to get off the line at. It's not going to shave a tenth of a second off or anything, but it can only help. Some people actually put a bag of ice on top of it while waiting. I'm not sure it does enough to offset the added weight from carrying a big bag of ice in the car.
-Jack
Obsidian '03 G35 Sports Coupe
Titanium '03 MX-5 Shinsen #532
#15