RocketG35,

Thanks for the pictures. In my opinion it looks alot better with the coupe springs in the rear. I like to have some gap in the back. Are those 19 inch? 245/40/19? If that is, it would be the same diameter as my 245/45/18. Right now, my rear has less gap than your setup so coupe springs should bring it up higher. I think your front is good, no need to go lower. My front right now is about the same height. Thanks again!

 

I didn't notice you already had the Z springs and I also didn't know that the Z spring on an X would drop it just the same. Considering how high your car was w/ the stock set up, it must have been a major height

And yes, those are 245/40/19 (Coupe wheels) I'm running - the rear tire looks really fat to me unlike the low pro look of the fronts at 225/40/19. When the tires go bald, I'll probably put a 245/35/19 in the rear.

Sorry I wasn't able to post a comparision pic of my full car with the coupe springs in the back. The pics w/ the full Z susp. were from a couple months ago, right when I did the swap. The pic w/ the coupe spring were taken in my garage today - ideally I would've put it in the same poses so you could see the difference...but glad to see they were enough for you.

 

Yup, I started the thread and have pictures of the drop on the 1st page. The X sits .4 inch higher than rwd but once dropped it's the same height with rwd.

Once again, thanks for the pics.

 

Rocket G35,

So is the coupe/oem shocks less bouncy compared to the z spring/shocks setup? I just purchased coupe springs. Will probably take a stab and install it myself.

 

The rear is definitely a lot bouncy...its a very livable ride. It is however, not like my stock ride which was very "cush" IMO, even w/ sport susp. I still get a lot of harshness from the front Z unrevised setup (will eventually change out the shocks for my stock Sport shock), but the softer rear definitely helped smooth it out.

The back install is a piece of cake - super easy (can't stress that enough). I haven't tackled the front yet...hopefully it won't be too much more difficult. Good Luck!

 

I am a real newbie when it comes to car stuff. I mean, the mods that I have (grounding wire, stillen cai, etc), I learned it from this forum and following the DIY. I am planning to do the rear coupe springs with these instructions. Actually, I think I have a better link to it than this but I don't have it with me at work.

http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutor...g_Installation

Anything I need to know about or things I might break? Please let me know. I am not as experience as you guys. Do you need the to put the car on jack stands or factory jack? Also, do I need to crawl under the car (I perfer not...don't want to get kill ) Or reaching it out with my arm from the outside is good enough?

Thanks RocketG35

 

Don't worry about this install or the level of mechanical skills. I haven't done too much work on cars myself, and I consider this really easy as I only spent 90 minutes total the first time I did it. After that, you can probably do it in 60 minutes or less! No need to get under the car, but please use Jack Stands! Never work on a car w/ only a jack as it may give. Also, don't forget to chock/block your front wheels so it doesn't roll either!

Try this DIY created by GSedan35 (suspension guru here). It is excellent and makes it super easy. You probably have most of these tools - instead of a 17mm box wrench, I got a Crescent wrench and it worked fine. Also, don't forget to torque your bolts after too to make sure they will hold.

http://www.g-owners.com/article_read.asp?id=25

Too bad you aren't in the Bay Area otherwise I'd come over and help.

 

BTW - you only need to take off the wheels and all work is done next to the car...so there's no reason to get under.

It will be even easier since you are only dropping in the springs - if you decide to remove the shock, someone mentioned that they broke the bolt at the top where it connects to the car. I didn't have any problems and I do believe it was an isolated incident...besides that, I don't think there is anything else to worry about.

 

+ 1, be sure to use jack stands and don't use the Infiniti jack. There was a thread the other day about someone using the Infiniti jack and it gave way. Go and pick up a cheap hydraulic jack at your local auto parts store or Sears. I use mine a lot.

By the way, I am about to do the install z springs on my car over one of the next few weekends. Wish me luck.

 

Good luck!! Tell me how the front goes as I've yet to swap out my Z shocks for my stock sport ones. GSedan35 posted another thread on how to remove the fronts by removing the cotter pic vs. trying to compress the spring while on the vehicle. Here it is...
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-suspension-diy/104137-long-overdue-fix-my-diy-suspension-how.html

 

RocketG35, thanks for the offer but I am thousands of miles away. From reading the link, it said I only need 12mm socket (at least just for rear spring installation). Where does it require 17mm socket? I have hydralic jack, jack stands, 2 chockers (is that enough?) and some sockets but not sure about 17mm. Yes I have a torque wrench too and definitely will torque things to spec.

The link said to use factory jack? If I plan to use jack stand, where is the jack point? Also, which jack point do I use for the hdraylic jack to lift it up first?

 

To answer your questions...

In the first pic, the lower suspension arm nut and bolt (w/ the blue arrow) requires the 17mm box wrench (or crescent wrench). YOu need to hold the nut w/ the box wrench to loosen the bolt. I don't think a socket will fit on the nut...but a box wrench/crescent wrench will fit fine there.

Regarding the jack/jack stands....You can use either a hydraulic jack or factory jack for this first part of placing the jack stands.

1) use the factory jack points at the front (behind front wheel) to raise the car high enough to slide the jack stands at the factory jack points at the rear (in front of the rear wheels).
2) Once you can fit the jack stand in rear, lower the front and remove the jack (factory or hydraulic).
3) Then you can use the hydraulic jack (faster and more control than the factory jack) as shown in the 2nd pic to raise the lower suspension arm.

Hope that helps...ask for more help if you need! Good luck!

 

Yes, it is much easier to do it this way. I've never removed the cotter pin/nut, instead I've always removed the A-arm to chassis bolts. It's basically the same thing the only difference is I don't have to waste a cotter pin.

A few words of advice though:

1) Have the entire front end of the car jacked up so that you've removed all tension on the sway bar. Otherwise, you'll be fighting a loosing battle with a torque sway bar and link.

2) USE spring compressors on the front springs when disassembling the unit. It amazed me that people just unbolt the top hat and let the spring pop out. I don't think the spring is going to fly out at a supersonic speed, but it can shoot the hat and nut off, etc. When installing Z springs and such, the compressor isn't needed though because hand strength can compress the springs enough for installation of the hat and nut.

 

RocketG35, first thanks for being so helpful. Now some questions...
Do you mean use the blue dots (factory jack points) in the below picture?

Isn't that the thin piece of metal? Thought you not suppose to use hydralic jack to lift on these areas or leave it support on jack stands. I've read people benting that metal thingy. I thought that area was only meant to be jack up by the factory jack?

My jack stands doesn't have grooves, how is it going to hold onto the thin piece of metal?



Now, back to the picture, I would put the hydraulic jack under the orange circle. On the instructions it said to raise it up a bit. Why does it need to push 1/8 up? I am a little confused. What's the point of having the hydralulic jack under the control arm? To stop everything from falling?

 

Good question about the jack points...you pointed out the right places (blue dots), but I didn't know about the bent metal. Maybe I got a little lucky. I also have jack stands that have a "V" like groove...so the thin metal just fit right in.

I do know that having the Hydraulic jack helped relieve the pressure of the bolt to remove it. I also know that it helped realign the suspension arm when putting the bolt back in. I'm not sure if it helped keeping it from falling apart once the bolt was removed...I don't think it is that loose...but don't quote me on that.