e-fan conversion - dyno results!
#61
um 400$ for a possible 5 hp gain.dont we think that money would be better spent on lightened wheels. buy the way a un clutched cummings 360 tractor trailer fan only causes a parsitic drag of 2 hp. it is far larger trust me. yes its loss is directly variable to rpm if that much gain is needed. no there is not a directly compairable dyno plot. if a person were to plan this mod perhaps the forum would contribute to offset the cost of dyno time. my hats off to andycon for taking the hit in the dyno cost.
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Just to chip in my 2cents, and clarify a few things...
Cost was ~$290, as outlined in a separate posting;
https://g35driver.com/forums/showpos...7&postcount=32
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Parts from Summit Racing Equipment (www.summitracing.com)
- flex-a-lite (dual) 220's (FLX-220)
- Variable speed controller (VSC)
- add-a-circuit (mini) (from auto-zone)
aprox $290 total parts cost.
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Yep - I was disapointed in the original dyno, which is why I got a freebie for the second round. Temperature for first run was 95-98deg, very similar conditions for second run at around 95-98deg. But there was a different operator, who was able to resolve the looping issues. I also agree, the dynos do not show anything conclusive, but...
My impressions on the fan swap - is that you feel it in the low-end - not represented by the dyno (up to 3500-4000rpm). IMO it is really, really worthwhile. I love it!
Plus I had fun wrenching on the Gee.
Also, for those with a mechanical fan - to me there is no such thing as it "free-wheeling" - just try spinning it by hand (even when it's cold, the thing does not free-wheel, there is significant drag/resistance). Now, when the e-fans are off - they are OFF!
Working on a DIY...for those interested.
Cost was ~$290, as outlined in a separate posting;
https://g35driver.com/forums/showpos...7&postcount=32
-------------
Parts from Summit Racing Equipment (www.summitracing.com)
- flex-a-lite (dual) 220's (FLX-220)
- Variable speed controller (VSC)
- add-a-circuit (mini) (from auto-zone)
aprox $290 total parts cost.
-----------
Yep - I was disapointed in the original dyno, which is why I got a freebie for the second round. Temperature for first run was 95-98deg, very similar conditions for second run at around 95-98deg. But there was a different operator, who was able to resolve the looping issues. I also agree, the dynos do not show anything conclusive, but...
My impressions on the fan swap - is that you feel it in the low-end - not represented by the dyno (up to 3500-4000rpm). IMO it is really, really worthwhile. I love it!
Plus I had fun wrenching on the Gee.
Also, for those with a mechanical fan - to me there is no such thing as it "free-wheeling" - just try spinning it by hand (even when it's cold, the thing does not free-wheel, there is significant drag/resistance). Now, when the e-fans are off - they are OFF!
Working on a DIY...for those interested.
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tiguy99 (09-22-2020)
#63
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I'm a bit confused. Why would he feel guilty about a statement he never made?
Last edited by trey's wife; 09-08-2006 at 12:50 AM.
#64
I stand corrected on the price (on more than one front). Let's blame lack of sleep to the fact that I misheard what I was told and added things together that in fact were different prices for the same parts rather than different parts. I greatly apologize on that one.
I certainly trust that anyone who is really interested can look over Andy's info or on the other posts dealing with this topic.
I certainly trust that anyone who is really interested can look over Andy's info or on the other posts dealing with this topic.
#65
sorry, after seeing this thread, i am waiting for this guy to come out and start selling some fans, i think the first dyno sheets are absolutely retarded looking. almost looks like a blank dyno sheet with some line drawn on there by some kids.
the benefits of electric fans would not show on a dyno if you let the car cool down to the same temperature. the benefits would be noticed on the street by keeping the car cooler at all times. these graphs are pointless.
you can get a difference of 5hp in between runs all the time on a dyno with no modification changes. for some reason my car dynos higher on the 4th and 5th pulls. electric fans, if set up right, WILL keep your car cooler, but in no way could you possibly tell this on a dyno accurately. a UTEC log showing coolant temps would have been a much better idea in this situation...
the benefits of electric fans would not show on a dyno if you let the car cool down to the same temperature. the benefits would be noticed on the street by keeping the car cooler at all times. these graphs are pointless.
you can get a difference of 5hp in between runs all the time on a dyno with no modification changes. for some reason my car dynos higher on the 4th and 5th pulls. electric fans, if set up right, WILL keep your car cooler, but in no way could you possibly tell this on a dyno accurately. a UTEC log showing coolant temps would have been a much better idea in this situation...
#67
its really not hard to do, just do some measuring, its two plugs and two 10mm bolts to remove your factory fans. then just figure out a simple way of mounting the new fans to sit down in the factory slots where the fans slide into. then you can either wire the fans onto a fused switch in the cab or look in the manual and actually wire them up to the factory wiring. i would just put it on a ACC switch when i turn on the key. should be very very simple to do. i just have my factory fans to both turn on high due to some rewiring i did right when i turn on my car. i am sleeved and twin turbo and my car has yet to get over 185 F. other tips you can consider if you dont live up north is running 100 % distilled water with either water wetter or purple ice mixed in. this is good to keep it anywhere from 20-40 degrees F cooler AT ALL times. highly recommended if you dont live where it gets below freezing....
also another idea if you dont get where it is too cold it to gut out the thermostat, a few people have had problems with them getting stuck anyways. only down fall is when you live where it gets really cold during the year, the car wont heat up correctly, this should only be done if you live in FL, So Cali or TX, AZ areas....
also another idea if you dont get where it is too cold it to gut out the thermostat, a few people have had problems with them getting stuck anyways. only down fall is when you live where it gets really cold during the year, the car wont heat up correctly, this should only be done if you live in FL, So Cali or TX, AZ areas....
#68
As I understand it you can save about $110 if you hard wire the new fan but due to some differences in the amps you are not looking at an easy rewire. Not really something to be taken on by just anyone.
G35Luv - there is another thread that does have the parts list and some more details. I'll try to do a search in a bit. I'm babysitting a 6 month old so I only have a sec here and there. lol
G35Luv - there is another thread that does have the parts list and some more details. I'll try to do a search in a bit. I'm babysitting a 6 month old so I only have a sec here and there. lol
#69
well most fans are going to draw between 10-20 amps. if you go to say a site like www.jegs.com and look around, we have been doing this kinda stuff for years. measure it up, by a double lightweight fan, grab the kit to wire it with relay for thermo if you want, should be very very simple to do. some simple fabrication might be needed. i would hard wire the fused relay right to a little distribution block i would make off the main positive side off the battery, then run a simple relay after the fuse that is turned on by an ACC switch wire.
then you are done, you turn on the car, both fans come on....
im not big on the DIY kits that people put to make money, i am more hands on, do it yourself, save money type guy.
then you are done, you turn on the car, both fans come on....
im not big on the DIY kits that people put to make money, i am more hands on, do it yourself, save money type guy.
#71
Originally Posted by lycan
um 400$ for a possible 5 hp gain.dont we think that money would be better spent on lightened wheels. buy the way a un clutched cummings 360 tractor trailer fan only causes a parsitic drag of 2 hp. it is far larger trust me. yes its loss is directly variable to rpm if that much gain is needed. no there is not a directly compairable dyno plot. if a person were to plan this mod perhaps the forum would contribute to offset the cost of dyno time. my hats off to andycon for taking the hit in the dyno cost.
#72
#73
Originally Posted by audiblemayhem
well most fans are going to draw between 10-20 amps. if you go to say a site like www.jegs.com and look around, we have been doing this kinda stuff for years. measure it up, by a double lightweight fan, grab the kit to wire it with relay for thermo if you want, should be very very simple to do. some simple fabrication might be needed. i would hard wire the fused relay right to a little distribution block i would make off the main positive side off the battery, then run a simple relay after the fuse that is turned on by an ACC switch wire.
then you are done, you turn on the car, both fans come on....
im not big on the DIY kits that people put to make money, i am more hands on, do it yourself, save money type guy.
then you are done, you turn on the car, both fans come on....
im not big on the DIY kits that people put to make money, i am more hands on, do it yourself, save money type guy.
#75
Originally Posted by G35Luv
Thanks guys... but I'm not exactly "technical"... well definitely NOT electircal... turning bolts is one thing, but once you added all the relay's, fuses, and amps... well, I'm Homer Simpson in that area... =) haha...
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...onversion+cost