After a while of having this light come on and giving the car to the dealership several times to get this fixed. They have replaced all wheel sensors and the BCU, to no effect. Now, it appears that my sound system is the culprit. Weird I know. For this reason I wanted to start a poll to see what everyone else was running. You know to try and pinpoint exactly what is causing this issue.

My setup
stock headunit
Pac AAI NIS2 Satellite input (possible culprit)
Carnetix CNX-P1900 - Mac Mini power supply (another possible culprit)
eD Sub/amp/components


So far when I disconnect the NIS all is well. If I have the NIS connected but not the mac equipment, all is well. But with everything connected, TPMS error gets triggered. Another issue is that somehow this is shortening my keyless remotes distance to inch's from the car.

I had my power and remote lines piggy backed off of the radio, but now the power is coming off of fuse #17 (previously empty) and the remote is hooked up to the cigarette lighter. I still get the errors. Next I'm going to connect the remote to the fuse panel as well on fuse 15 (I believe) which is also empty. #17 always has power and #15 is only one when the car is on. If that doesn't do it then I'll be pulling the RCA's from the mac off of the NIS.

 

The last couple summers I would have it come on when driving on the highway at summer temperatures (i.e. > 90 degrees).

So far, on my trip, with appx 1000 miles in the mountains, it hasn't come on.

 

You have EMI/RF interference issues. The Carnetix unit is well shielded. Look for any electronics not entirely enclosed by metal - what type of enclosure do you have around your car pc? Your power lines should be drawn directly from the battery for anything over a few amps.

Are you running WiFi or bluetooth off your car PC - it may be built in?

 

My PC is a Mac Mini, in it's original shell. I believe it's magnesium and aluminum. Bluetooth shouldn't be an issue as the car has a bluetooth option. Wifi is up and I'll try disabling it when I get the car back, hopefully later this week.

For the power, why wouldn't it be good off of an unused fuse slot? Spot #17 is a straight bat connections and has no use according to the schematics for the 06.
Just for good measure I was planning on tapping my 4 gauge that goes to the sub, but as a last resort. I'd rather not have to.
Thanks for the help and suggestions. I was starting to wonder if it could have been the wifi/bluetooth as well. At the same time, I have had my laptop running in the car well before the mac mini, and no issues... Then again it wasn't in the upper glove compartment, though.

 

my tps light comes on when i drive on the highway for about 30-40 mins. but once i shut off my car then light resets itself. basic city driving for hours will not set off the tps only highway. i know its cause of my rims. i read somewhere on this forum that tps doesnt work right with some rims.

 

I have stockers, so I know that can't be the issue. You don't worry about the fact that it doesn't work properly? That irritates the crap out of me. You have the same size wheels all around, how can they be the cause of your TPMS errors?

 

My stock 05 G35X gives a false tire pressure alarm with non-stop 25-30 minutes of continuous highway driving. Fixes itself after a few stops or a restart.
No problems with stop and go city driving.

My guess is the senor signals are having trouble getting to the receiver at high tire rotational speeds and time between readings is long.

 

I have had a few combos like oem deck with line level converters, two eclipse decks, number of different amps, tons of add-on modules (all KP stuff), remote start alarm, none of them have caused any problems with my TPS.

 

I have this exact same problem. I have a similar setup to yours except I'm using a custom made computer in a shielded metal box. The computer is using a Opus power supply so it shuts off about 10 seconds after I turn the car off. I've noticed that if I try to lock the doors using the remote and the computer is still on, the remote doesn't work. There is interference comming through the wiring going into the computer. It travels up power and VGA cables. I say all this because the pressure sensors in the wheels use the same receiver as the keyless entry remote. When the car is moving, the pressure sensors transmit every so often and if the receiver misses several of these transmissions, it causes the error. I tested all this by turning off the computer during a trip and sure enough. I know you can use those ferrite filters on the cables, but I haven't got around to it yet. I also think that the receiver is in the passenger foot well and that is where my power cable is running.

 

Also... It's not the NIS2. I have one now but I was having this problem before when I was running the computer audio straight into the XM receiver in the trunk.

 

Update: I've disabled the wifi and bluetooth with no such luck.

I have mine set to turn off after 15 minutes and I can turn on the alarm with the computer on, I just can't be more than a couple of feet from the car. With the computer in standby, I still have no range for my remote. For you it may not be the NIS2, but I'm still not going to rule it out. At least not yet.

My power cable for the mac mini comes up the middle from the radio area into the upper glove compartment. Not sure if that is close enough to the area that you are referring to. Looks like it's time to go through all the manual for the car and find out how everything is hooked up (tpms and keyless).

If you think the VGA cables may be the issue, then have you tried hooking up via RCA's instead?

I shut down the computer instead of standby and that didn't resolve the distance issue with the remote. If I disconnect everything, then my remote works at a great distance away.
I'll wait for 15 mins for the inverter to turn off and see if the distance has been restored. Better yet, I'm going to pull the fuse now.

 

If I'm behind the car, the remote almost has to be touching the car for the doors to lock. If I'm beside or in front of the car, the remote will work several feet away. Once it's Himbernated, the remote works from across the parking lot. When the computer is in standby, it's almost the same as being on so your range will be decreased. Try using Himbernation instead.

I would never use RCA or composite signals for computer video. The resolution is way to low. I am using a shield VGA cable though. I know if I install ferrite filters it will fix the problem. That's what they're made for. You'll see them on just about ever laptop power cord about 6 inches from the plug. They are required by the FCC so the computer doesn't interfere with TV and radio.

If you have service manual and look up where everything in the car is, let me know what the keyless entry module is using for an antenna.

 

I had my TPMS come on a about 2-3 times since I got my car in december and they all happened while I was on the highway. I have a carputer also with a M2-ATX power supply and if I remember correctly the times it did come on were after I put in my carputer

 

Update: after pulling the fuse the distance for my remote increased a little bit. I also noticed that all three changes had actually created a difference. On/standby equals a couple of feet past the car. Computer off is a few yards away. Power supply/computer off 1~2 yards more.

Next step. I'm going to try and isolate all the grounds and positive cables as much as possible away from the "stock" electronics.

 

To all that have left replies/votes. I thank you very much. This looks to be a long endeavor that hopefully we can all resolve and provide help to others in the future.

edit: The very next step that I'm going to take is to pull my carnetix power supply out of the equation and hook up my dc to ac converter then the stock mac mini power supply to that.