Send a PM to Tony at Riverside Infiniti. I picked up a used but good condition set from him for dirt cheap. He usually has excellent prices and service in general.

 

Actually I did contact him when he was selling those, but I was too late. He offered me employee discount pricing on a set of new ones but I don't know what % off that is. The online places seem to sell at essentially 25% off list price.

Anyone know what % Infiniti employee discount is? If it's > 25% I'm there.

 

for the windshield wiper replacement...where did you buy the replacement wipers from? you local autozone?

 

I usually get them from the dealer, autozone only sells entire assemblies as far as I am aware. I actually tried upgrading to the new wiper style like the Bosch Icon type, but they did not sit as flush as the original ones, so I have been using OEM refills.

 

i was wondering for the clutch fluid flushing...why did you have to keep pumping the clutch, and open-closing the valve. couldn't you just let it open and drain the whole thing out?

how would u do the pumping if you're doing it by yourself?

 

FSM states to pump the clutch pedal 5 times, hold it on the 5th, open and close bleeder screw, release pedal wait 5 seconds, and repeat (top off fluid as needed).

Since bleeding the clutch fluid is very similar to bleeding the brakes, see this article here for a detailed explanation.

 

was wondering for the rear differential fluid change...will Mobile1 75W-90 synthetic gear lubricant be suitable for the job?

 

Yes, as long as it is a GL5 gear lube

 

Wheel Stud Replacement Procedure

 

This is a great thread awesomedudes!!!

 

Thank you so much!

 

Want to drain and refill my manual trans fluid. Your suggestion as to which is the best fluid to use? and it's 4 quarts correct? Thank you

 

I had the same problem w/ the rear rotors. I live near the ocean so it's very possible they were seized on. The solution was a slide hammer. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5223 $40 at my local harbor freight. It basically hooks onto the back of the rotor, you slide the weight out to hit the stop in the front and it basically hammers it on the back from the outside. After clicking the parking brake wheel all the way up and wailing on the rear rotor w/ a rubber mallet and even a dead blow hammer http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39126 for a good hour and no progress, I tried the slide hammer. Three good wacks w/ the slide hammer and it popped right off. I highly recommend it. It probably saved me hours.

 

I'd stick with the oem fluid for now. I've used Amsoil MTG and OEM and becuase of the OEM fluid's 75w85 viscosity, it provides smoother shifting. If you know how to get your hands on some Castrol SMX-S 75w85 full synthetic, I would love to try that to see how it feels in the trans, as it is only available in the UK.

Btw, the OEM fluid is a synthetic blend.

 

You suggest oem fluid for the diff fluid as well?

4 quarts for the trans?
2 quarts for the diff?