Kevin, if running resistors in series do they need to be matched? Can I run the 25W 5 ohms with 10W 10 ohm? If not I need to wait till I get 10 ohms... I had a feeling I should have got the 10 ohm - damn it!

 

They don't need to be matched, they just need to be big enough to support the current and voltage running through the resistor.

You would calculate the current based on the voltage and total resistance (14.4 vdc and 10+5 = 15 ohms). The current would be 0.96A. Since it is a series circuit the current will be the same though both resistors, but the voltage won't. Since we know the current and the resistance we can calculate the voltage (voltage = current x resistance). This gives us voltage = 0.96A x 5 ohms = 4.8vdc and 0.96A x 10 ohms = 9.6A.

So, the 5 ohm resistor would have 0.96A of current and 4.8vdc going through it, for a total of 4.608 watts.

The 10 ohm resistor would have 0.96A of current and 9.6vdc going through it, for a total of 9.216 watts.

Both values are far below the ratings so everything should be fine, with a total power rating of 13.824 watts.

(to check the math you can check the wattage of a 15 ohm load at 14.4 vdc. This would result in 0.96A of current and 13.824 watts of power.

 

thanks Kevin, and thanks for the phone call... one of the issues/mistakes I had was using the FSM specs of 21 watts 12 volts... I was trying to avg 12 volt current and 14 volt current (but based on 21 watts instead of 25)... anyway - once this is all done at least others that want to do it won't have to go through all this.

Everyone, just use 25watt 10 ohm resisters... I will know early next week if the physical size will fit in the bulb socket housing... I'm hoping it will - this way there will be no concern of anything getting hot enough to melt/burn (even though the likelihood is slim to none no matter where it's wired).

EDIT!!!! do not use 25W 10ohm... see post #125 for solution.

 

I think you meant 9.6V. I don't want to nit-pick, but people who are new to current/voltage/resistance might get confused. Good info though.

Quick question, when you are talking about your load resistors, are they pulling current 100% of the time or only 50% time (when the blinkers are on)?

 

Yes, you are correct, thank you for catching and correcting that.

They are only pulling current while the light is on. However, your lights flash pretty quick, so you can pretty much assume they are on all the time.

 

I may not have mentioned in any previous posts… In case anyone is wondering about power source – the rear defroster provides continuous power so you can tap into it… so nothing needs to be run to the front of the car, it’s all in the rear panels.

 

If you get a second could you please Email me the gw.pdf file, I want to compare the wiring in the sedan to the wiring in the coupe.

Thanks!

 

just sent it... big file, 4 mb - 120 pgs...

 

If you need any other FSM's for the G35c, G35s, G37 you can get them from my site if you like.
http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/

Next time you can just send a link from my site

i.e. http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/sedan/2005/gw.pdf

 

it was faster to just email the pdf, he only needed one section. Thanks though

 

Got it, thanks. I can't seem to figure out where you're getting the power from, but I would double check that everything still works with the defroster on. From the layout in the service manual it is hard to tell what is going on. I'm not sure where the actual rear defrost relay is. It does have constant power running to it, but not through it, when the car is off.

 

I'll get the diagram that the installer used and email it to you... it won’t be till late next week though.

Everything works when the car is off... however, I have been meaning to try the signals with the defroster on - I was just thinking about that earlier today... I've only driver the car twice since the install - I'll check it out this weekend...

 

As for the load resistors, i currently have LED front blinkers installed, so to eliminate the hyperflash i have these installed. They are 50w 6ohm resistors. Havent had any issues with them and the blinkers blink normal.

http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...id/0/SFV/32481

 

Nice find, that should help some people out.

 

Additionally, the link below is the site I used for the rear signal bulb resistors… reasonably priced, quick shipping – but shipping is a bit pricey (as is most these days)… if anyone uses them, choose 3-5 day ground, they bump it up to 2nd day for same price:
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/bro...questid=122406