G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Increase power or increase handling?

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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 07:33 PM
  #16  
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Handling. Unless you're going to go Turbo small bolt ons are a waste of money IMO. You can end up spending close to $1000 just for a 20 hp gain . You'll get more of a benefit from good handling. Not to mention the G is pretty quick as is. How fast can you really go day to day?
 
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 07:52 PM
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Better handling prior to additional power.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ttrank
Sways first all the way.

HKS is not what I would call a power mod...
Easy to say for a guy with as much power as you do...

Originally Posted by DaveB
Performance/Sound-

1) 2003-2004 sedan muffler $40. It has a 15% smaller can and will emit a good bit more volume while still retaining the variable-valve technology which improves power delivery compared to something like the HKS muffler. Paint the can black and buy a set of 2007+ Altima exhaust tips ($40) and you'll have the aftermarket look and sound with no drone. My 2003's exhaust with the 2006 sedan midpipe is quite a bit louder than that of a 05/06 sedan and about as loud as a coupe/Z.
Interesting suggestion, I may look into it.

Seems as if the consensus is clear.. sway bars for the win. Looks like it'll be on order as soon as Sunday and hopefully in by next weekend! Thanks for the advice.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveB

2) Z-tube and seal off the airbox lower resonator. $70

how did you go about the sealing part?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Hybrid_DET
how did you go about the sealing part?
Remove the Power Duct cover and get an idea of the resonator diameter at bottom of the airbox. Take the cap off of plastic bottle and wrap the end with some electrical tape to the needed diameter and then stick the cap into the resonator opening. Done deal. I used the cap off of bottle of Orange Handwash cleaner.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 01:12 AM
  #21  
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Did u notice a difference in sound?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 01:46 AM
  #22  
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after extensive research I have found that the only way to get real power out of the G is SC or TT... soooo i'd say go with the suspension
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 01:49 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DaveB
Handling

1) Tires $580-800. Bar none, there is NO mod that will improve handling and braking better than a good set of tires.

2) 350Z springs in the front, coupe springs in the back. For $100, you can't beat the look that doesn't compromise wheel travel or alignment.

3) Swaybars $200. Improved roll stiffness. Will definitely give the sensation that the car is handling better. Make the bars too stiff though and you'll compromise handling.


I personally wouldn't waste my money on lower tie bars. I don't really see how'd they be that benefical seeing that the G35's structure is pretty stiff to begin with and adding bolt-on bars will do little to improve rigidity. Welded? Maybe, but bolt-on pieces are questionable.
I don't see what springs do for handling... does the whole inch or two closer to the ground really matter? If anything, you need to replace number two with struts. They actually help keep those sticky tires of yours on the ground. Performance-wise, springs realistically only relay the feel of the road to the steering wheel. BTW, a suspension can be too stiff, but the chassis can never be too stiff. The bars will make a difference regardless, not like a cage, but at least more so than springs ever will. Lowering your car with springs and camber/toe kits alone can actually hinder your car's handling characteristics...
 

Last edited by dofu; Mar 1, 2008 at 01:52 AM.
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 02:35 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by marty315
OK, so I'm debating between three main mods at this point:

HKS Sport Exhaust

GT Spec Front Lower Tie Brace, Rear Lateral Arm Brace & Rear Tie Brace

or

Stillen Adjustable Sway Bar Set.

If you say suspension first, which one of the last two should I get? I wouldn't mind a deeper exhaust tone with a little more power for the engine but handling is important to and it's the area I've modded the least at this point. Let me know your thoughts!
exhaust, then sway bars, then the braces.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dofu
I don't see what springs do for handling... does the whole inch or two closer to the ground really matter? If anything, you need to replace number two with struts. They actually help keep those sticky tires of yours on the ground. Performance-wise, springs realistically only relay the feel of the road to the steering wheel. BTW, a suspension can be too stiff, but the chassis can never be too stiff. The bars will make a difference regardless, not like a cage, but at least more so than springs ever will. Lowering your car with springs and camber/toe kits alone can actually hinder your car's handling characteristics...
Well yes, you do need the right shocks teamed with the springs. The Sport shocks are up to the task. A 1" drop will reduce the roll center and improve roll stiffness without compromising suspension geometry plus they will allow the chassis to respond a little quicker and will reduce brake dive. They will also improve aerodynamics. The sway bars will improve things even more assuming you don't go nuts with the settings. I agree that there's no downside to chassis stiffening, but from what I can tell, these lower bars will do little to improve overall chassis rigidity. The mounting points look all wrong and I wouldn't be surprised if these things actually could tear to bend the mounting points under extreme loads. Honda guys see this with their lower tie bars. I had weld in subframe connecters (ran the entire length of the frame rails under the doors) in my 96 Maxima and they made a big difference in rigidity.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 06:01 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by TheDude
after extensive research I have found that the only way to get real power out of the G is SC or TT... soooo i'd say go with the suspension
High compression Built n/a would be nasty also, plus reving out to 8,400rpm+ is sick..

Ive got my rev limit set to 7,300 right now and it sounds legit even though i prob dont make much power up their on stock block and run a high chance of ****ing up my block without replacing the valve springs..

If your looking for some power at a cheap price get a lightweight flywheel+exhuast+test pipes+Crawford plenum+Crawford headers+Utec and you'll be pretty strong N/a stock Block G.
 

Last edited by VQ Hotness; Mar 1, 2008 at 06:05 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveB
Well yes, you do need the right shocks teamed with the springs. The Sport shocks are up to the task. A 1" drop will reduce the roll center and improve roll stiffness without compromising suspension geometry plus they will allow the chassis to respond a little quicker and will reduce brake dive. They will also improve aerodynamics. The sway bars will improve things even more assuming you don't go nuts with the settings. I agree that there's no downside to chassis stiffening, but from what I can tell, these lower bars will do little to improve overall chassis rigidity. The mounting points look all wrong and I wouldn't be surprised if these things actually could tear to bend the mounting points under extreme loads. Honda guys see this with their lower tie bars. I had weld in subframe connecters (ran the entire length of the frame rails under the doors) in my 96 Maxima and they made a big difference in rigidity.
Dropping the car an entire inch isn't going to help roll, which doesn't matter because a little body roll is not a bad thing anyways. Better struts can do a better job for traction than lowering your car ever can. Don't get me started on the ricer logic of aerodynamics from dropping your car a whole inch... And for the bars, I'm guessing you don't have them?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 01:32 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dofu
Dropping the car an entire inch isn't going to help roll, which doesn't matter because a little body roll is not a bad thing anyways. Better struts can do a better job for traction than lowering your car ever can. Don't get me started on the ricer logic of aerodynamics from dropping your car a whole inch... And for the bars, I'm guessing you don't have them?
Well I noticed less roll when I added my Z/coupe springs. I do agree that having some roll in benefical hence the reason I said setting sway bars too tight will decrease traction. Better shocks will definitely improve handling limits especially if the damper is perfectly matched to the spring rate. As for improved aerodynamics, there will be a slight improvement since there will be less air traveling underneath it. As for the bars, no I do not have them.

If a drop isn't benefical, then why do the Z and coupe have shorter springs on the same suspension? It is surely all not just for looks. The Z and coupe do handle better and the shorter springs are one of many reasons why. The sedan has a higher rider height for improved ride quality and vehicle load since the sedan will typically see heavier loads.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 01:35 AM
  #29  
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Sways for sure... they make a huge difference.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveB
Well I noticed less roll when I added my Z/coupe springs. I do agree that having some roll in benefical hence the reason I said setting sway bars too tight will decrease traction. Better shocks will definitely improve handling limits especially if the damper is perfectly matched to the spring rate. As for improved aerodynamics, there will be a slight improvement since there will be less air traveling underneath it. As for the bars, no I do not have them.

If a drop isn't benefical, then why do the Z and coupe have shorter springs on the same suspension? It is surely all not just for looks. The Z and coupe do handle better and the shorter springs are one of many reasons why. The sedan has a higher rider height for improved ride quality and vehicle load since the sedan will typically see heavier loads.

Dave your wasting your breath arguing with someone that has a "stock" car.
 
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