yeah, you'll have plenty of room. I do oil changes for local G members frequently this way

 

If its lowered the jack may not fit under the car, so you may have drive onto a piece of 2x4 or whatever so you can jack on the pinch weld. There is plenty of room to jack the car then put the jack stand right next to it. There is also plenty of room get under there. You will not be raising the rear of the car. I go right behind the wheel. You can see that the side skirts are molded so it wont damage the plastic when you jack in that area.

 

Seriously? It's glass-reinforced plastic. It has higher resistance to plastic deformation and better modulus of elasticity than steel or aluminum ramps. Basically, they'll have a little bit of give but they won't fatigue like metal.

It's some tough stuff. If you're not completely sure about it, put it on the ramps and throw some jackstands underneath it. At least you'll have something to catch the car.

 

Yeah that will work ok but it's annoying because the 2x4 has a tendency to move forward as you try to drive up on it

I prefer the two floor jack approach as I do in the jackin' the G coupe video here:
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v35-2003-06/183421-diy-video-series.html

 

I use the plastic Rhinos with lowered Z springs and no clearance problems. The only issue is they slide as I drive onto them in my garage, so I had to stick a 2X4 beween them and the garage wall.

If you have clearance problems, you could always put a little 1X4 peice of wood at the bottom of the ramp to make it a more gradual incline.

 

lol my sedan w/z setup makes it literally by less than a quarter of an inch with my Husky floor jack. You are right though it is a pain but not as bad as jacking slammed 240s. They take the cake in the pita catagory.

 

My 03 is lowered with Z/coupe springs and I have an Aero bumper. IMO, there's absolutely no need to jack or lift the car. I took two peices of 2X12 cedar plank about 20" long and linked them together, tire track width, with a 2X8 plank using simple 90 degree metal brackets. I cut one end on the 2X12 planks at a 45 degree angle to make a ramp. My driveway is very flat, but it still has a slight grade. I park the car downgradient and pull up on the ramp. I have enough access to remove the splash guard and place a 5" tall oil collection underneath.

 

Go to walmart or something and see the ryno ramps in person - they are made of some very tough plastic! Metal ones actually scare me more

 

+1 ^ been using rhino ramps for the past 5 years with no problems...rock solid

 

The Rhino ramps are plenty strong, I use them too.

 

Bah, I usually just life the car with one hand and turn wrenches with the other. Ramps/jacks are for sissies

 

I also use Rhino ramps that I got at Walmart. And like others have said, they slide when trying to go up them, so I have also cut some 2x4's and brace them back to the back wall of the garage. Once up, they are very stable, and plenty wide. I have 245's and they fit fine. I also have a nice "racing" jack, low profile, and jack stands, but the ramps are so much less hassle for just an oil change.

 

Slide? My old metal ramps used to slide but my Rhinos don't. You sure you guys have that rubber piece under the front of the ramp installed? It falls out easy.

 

I have the rubber anchors. They used to fall out until I put a little rubber cement on them to keep them from moving. It's been about 2 years and they've been fine ever since.

 

Yep, rubber piece in place. have tried putting old rubber mats under them, with so-so success. It still slides if I go too fast. so since I have the 2x4's cut already, I use them all the time.